Hall table...

[Adam Boyer]

We have a decent sized entry way, and I thought of this table made of Wenge and Mahogany (the top is mahogany with wenge inlay)- I would make it mortise and tenon joinery - do you think this would work? How big do you make the mortise and tenons?

The sketchup is attached

[Jim Becker]

For folks who do not have SketchUp! loaded, here's a JPG of the table the OP is speaking of:

halltable.jpg

My only comment is that I've decided I hate Wenge...but the design is nice in general. I wonder if lightening up the feel of the legs might be a good idea. They are a little beefier than I personally prefer, but that's just me.

[Adam Boyer]

I was considering the practicalities of 4 inch leg taper cuts - perhaps 3 inch legs would be better...
I will slim them down - I am not 100% on the woods - I have never used wenge and thought I'd give it a try - though other dark woods would be ok too... any other suggestions?

[Wes Bischel]

I would agree with Jim on the legs. Plus the offset between the apron and legs is a bit much - maybe 1/4" or 3/8"? As for wood, I tend to go with local hardwoods which would be walnut, cherry etc. But I guess "local hardwood" is a bit of an oxymoron in Tucson. See what your local dealer has on hand (or easily available) and go from there.

FWIW,
Wes

[Jim Becker]

Hmm...if those are 4" legs, that's a very "beefy" hall table, indeed from the proportions! In contrast, this one which is going in our new addition in the front entryway has legs that are 1 1/4" squares tapered to 3/4" at the bottom. It's about 36" wide, 11 deep in the center (it's a bow-front) and about 27" tall including the top.



Here it is where it will live once the addition is completed:

[Adam Boyer]

Well, I can see your points - and that is a nice table. Part of me wonders how much leg is needed to hold up a rather large table - it is 70" long and 22 " wide and 34 " tall... I haven't done much in the way of design (as you can tell), but I have liked the ideas (I changed the leg offset to 1/4 inch). How does one learn the practical considerations of design (i.e. how much leg you need or how much tenon and so on).

Version 3...

[Jim Becker]

Try a version with 2-2.5" legs to see how things look proportionally. That's a big table!

[Adam Boyer]

ok, down to 2.5 inch legs, which I think look pretty ok - they taper down to 1.5 inches. I added matching inlay to the drawer fronts - no I just have to learn how to do inlay...

[Jim Becker]

I like that last iteration much better.

[Adam Boyer]

Sketchup is kind of fun...

ok, 2 inch legs that taper to 1 inch, different size drawers... I think this is close to the winner. I am very appreciative of your input.

Design is one thing - but another to figure out how to make it.

[Greg Cole]

Adam,
Agreed with Jim on the "lighter" legs. 4" square would be a might bit hefty even for a kitchen table, although your dimensions are close to that.
I have a hall table about 80% done to date, need to bevel the underside of the top still and do final assembly & finish... so maybe not quite 80%...
Anyway, I opted on a 2 sided taper on the legs and started a wee bit over 1 3/4" square and tapered to 3/4" on the bottom.
This pic is after the initial dry fit and before mitering the tenons, to the aprons aren't fulled seated to the shoulders on the tenons etc.... but you get the overall look-design.
Dimensions are @ 33" tall, 48" wide & 16" deep. Looks ok to me for about 30 bucks in lumber...


Cheers.
Greg

[Don C Peterson]

I recently completed a hall table that was 71" long and 13" wide, I used 1 1/4" legs with 3/8" mortises. I started out planning on 2" thick legs, but decided that it looked much more refined if I cut them down. They are plenty sturdy for what it was intended for.

[Mike Williams]

Adam - all of the above posts have focused on slimming down the legs, which I totally agree with.

Personally, I think this kind of table should be light and airy. I think the front and side aprons are too deep. You may have changed it since the original post, but the Sketchup file showed the front apron as 8" deep, with 1 1/2" top and bottom rails, and a 5" drawer depth.

I think rails 3/4" - 1" deep, with a 3" - 4" drawer would look better.

Don Peterson's picture shows that lighter design, with an arch to make it even lighter in the middle.

[Adam Boyer]

hmm, I do tend to agree with all - a more elegant appearing (skinnier) is better - latest version with 1.5 inch legs. Not sure, but I might make the depth less too...

[Don C Peterson]

I really like how that's looking from the front, but hall tables are usually quite a bit shallower than 24". Of course, you have to build the table to fit the room...