Hall table...

[Adam Boyer]

I do appreciate the link - I think that would work nicely. For some reason I cannot psychologically accept a faux drawer - and so I think despite them being shallow, I am going to make them drawers anyway. I don't think I really need deep drawers. I considered making the aprons smaller and doing away with drawers altogether - but I really, really want them... Thanks for you assistance. The cutting began today - for the top at least.

Adam,

The uncolored diagram of your table is proportionally looking really good. I think it's the lack of color which brings it out and allows me to see just the lines.

I was browsing another forum and came across a similar drawer issue and thought you might be interested in something which could work for you. I copied the location of a pic' which pretty much explains it all.

http://www.woodmangler.com/Dresser/Small%20Drawers.jpg

[George Symula]

Greg and others,

Typically to what thickness do you mill your hall table thickness? Thanks..

Geo

[Guy Germaine]

I don't know about the guys that use solid hardwood, but my guess would be 3/4". I use veneer on mine and lay it on top of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. The plywood, plus the thickness of the veneer on both sides, just makes it a "strong" 3/4". Once I have the top made, I mill the hardwood to that thickness.

[Adam Boyer]

The tables in the pictures look like 3/4" to me - and that is what I plan on using. I think it depends on the application - I have finally agreed with the others on this thread that hall tables should not be beefy...

[Greg Cole]

George & Adam,
I started out with a couple 8/4 sticks for the entire table. The top was resawed as thick as possible & finished thickness is just a twitch under 3/4 (like maybe 1/32 under, close nuff). I'd considered going 5/4 for some heft, but I wouldn't have been able to bookmatch the pieces for the top, just a personal choice I guess.
The taper on the legs for mine starts just a little less than 1/2 way down the leg. Adam, I like the thinner look of the legs on your last version, more elegant per say for a hall table.
After visiting my sister this past weekend (future owner of said hall table) she seemed to think I need to make a set of the "reconfigureable" small square coffee style tables (ala the recent WOOD magazine) for her too, since I opened my yap and said I have a bunch more mahogany "lying around".

Cheers.
Greg

[Adam Boyer]

After visiting my sister this past weekend (future owner of said hall table) she seemed to think I need to make a set of the "reconfigureable" small square coffee style tables (ala the recent WOOD magazine) for her too, since I opened my yap and said I have a bunch more mahogany "lying around".

Cheers.
Greg

At least now you have an excuse to get out to the shop.

[George Symula]

George & Adam,
I started out with a couple 8/4 sticks for the entire table. The top was resawed as thick as possible & finished thickness is just a twitch under 3/4 (like maybe 1/32 under, close nuff). I'd considered going 5/4 for some heft, but I wouldn't have been able to bookmatch the pieces for the top, just a personal choice I guess.
".

Cheers.
Greg

Greg,
Thanks for the response. I normally like a little more heft for tabletops but I was hoping that 3/4" was enough for a hall table, especially since I have 100 bdf or so of cherry already milled to 3/4". I've been busy with beds lately, brown maple with mahogany panels for my son and cherry with quilted maple panels for Pooky, (my daughter). I tried to talk her into something with tall octagonal legs but she wanted something similar to her brother, so....that's what she's getting.
The discussion of the legs was also very helpful. thanks....Geo