What to seal DC piping with

[Larry Fox]

I am installing some 6" PVC for my cyclone-system and understand that it is not desireable to glue the pipe in case you need to reconfigure. I have read about others sealing / caulking the pipe and I know that silicone is a no-no. So my question - what would you recommend using to seal the joints?

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

Larry

[Jay Albrandt]

Larry,

I used polyurethane chaulk. It is a little messy but it has done the job well.

Good Luck

Jay

[JayStPeter]

I use aluminum duct tape. Works great. Just get the good stuff ($14 a roll, not $6) and you might have to wipe the dirt and dust off the pipe depending on how clean it was when you bought it.

[Rick Gifford]

I use silicone calk. Works great, stays flexible with any vibration you may have on the joints and a simple slice of the razor knife and the joint is free again.

Don't forget to secure the joints together with sheet metal screws. I don't know if everyone does that, but some of my joints needed the help, especially on the vertical drops.

[Anthony Anderson]

Aluminum duct tape. Works great, and if you need to take apart, just slice along the seam and peel off. The caulk will work too, but the tape is less of a mess, and easier to work with. Bill

[Sean Troy]

I am installing some 6" PVC for my cyclone-system and understand that it is not desireable to glue the pipe in case you need to reconfigure. I have read about others sealing / caulking the pipe and I know that silicone is a no-no. So my question - what would you recommend using to seal the joints?

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

Larry

why would silicon be a no no ?

[Jeff Miller]

If the ends are cut square and the fitting is pushed together all the way and laid out straight,put a couple of screws in to hold it tight. Mine is done that way and it doesn't leak. You're sucking through it not blowing.

This is only my opinion


JEFF

[Steven Wilson]

Silicon calk isn't a no-no. You generally want to avoid silicon spray material in the shop as it can effect finishing. I avoid spray products with silicon, but silicon calk has never caused a finish problem.

[Jim O'Dell]

I used the Alex white paintable caulk from Home Depot on mine. It really doesn't matter. You're not using it for strength, just to seal the seam. Anything that stays somewhat pliable will work. Jim.

[Al Killian]

silicone calk should not be a problem, as it does not come into contact with the wood and it is not airborne. So if is so bad, please explain. It only used on the outside of the pipe. I just do not see where the problem would be.

[Larry Fox]

Thanks for the opinions guys. It is my understanding that silicone really messes with WB finishes which I spray a lot of so I just assumed that it had no place in the shop.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Why are you concerned about silicone?

[Joe Chritz]

I used silicone on all the first install. I just changed the runs to add two machines and it came apart well after cutting around the seam.

The new runs use foil tape and silicone where the tape wouldn't work well. Like the edge of the blast gate. I did use some old silicone that isn't hardening very well but it is still sealed.

As long as it doesn't leak it is fine.

Joe

[Yuchol Kim]

Silicone has gotten a bad reputation over the years because people thought it was too difficult to clean up. Silicone caulking in white seals all my DC joints, looks MUCH better than aluminum foil.

[Alan Schaffter]

Silicone is the only way to go. Dry fit the connections then put a small bead of silicone on the outside. DC suction will hold it in place. It is easy to disassemble and cleanup later- it rubs off with your fingers. Don't use the white latex caulk- way too difficult to clean off.