Tablesaw blade choice

[Joe Petersen]

I hope I'm not beating this into the ground, but here goes.

I want to buy a new blade for my tablesaw. I don't have a fortune and can't afford the WWII. I did see this used at a show here in Atlanta and understand its ability when the demonstrator could make paper thin veneer. He took both hands off the wood and dusted his shirt off with the blade spinning. I also understand a lot of that was the saw too.

I have a cheap, small tablesaw with a ripping blade. I am working toward several upgrades like an outfeed table and a router insert. I want a finishing crosscut blade.

I can't spend more than $50 and looked around at the two big stores. There is a Firestorm with precision ground teeth, and a couple Freud's that would fit the bill. An Irwin for $25.

Would the Firestorm be worthwhile or do I just need to bite the bullet and pay a little more? What is the minimum teeth to provide a good finish?

[Lee Koepke]

I just got a Freud Glue Line Rip blade from an 'auction' for 42 delivered. Nice cuts. very nice.

I got a systimatic cross cut blade for almost the same $$. Try a search on here for TS blades, there are a few VERY thorough discussions and some charts even for the type of cuts you may be performing.

That said, I have 2 Freuds, and are pleased with both.

[scott spencer]

Amazon has the LU88R010 for ~ $40.50 shipped after 10% discount code...outstanding cut up to ~ 6/4". I would only recommend the Irwin or Firestorm blades to someone I didn't like. If you want to buy local, your big box stores should have the Diablo or Avanti blades that are similar, but if you can wait, I think the Industrial blade is a step up. LU88 review.

DeWalt's new Precision Trim series is a decent too.


My blade ratings

[Bruce Page]

You didn’t mention whether you run a thin kerf or not, I’m assuming that you do. If that is the case, the Freud LU88R010 is a good crosscut blade for less than $50.00. I have always been happy with my Freud blades.

[Charles McCracken]

What is the minimum teeth to provide a good finish?

I'm too biased to answer the first part of your post but for fine crosscuts in most stock you will want a blade with 60 teeth or more, preferably with alternating top bevel grind.

[Mark Rios]

So Joe, which is it, thin or regular kerf?

Also, I sent you a PM.

[Brian Penning]

the demonstrator could make paper thin veneer. He took both hands off the wood and dusted his shirt off with the blade spinning.

Not to hijack the thread but I'm having a little trouble visualizing what happened above.

[Joe Petersen]

I don't think my purposes matter what thickness I need. Thin or standard I guess.

The demonstrator ran a board, rip cut, halfway through the board 2 1/2 inch thick or so. At the midpoint, he just took both hands off and let the blade run with the board in place. He dusted his hands on his shirt to demonstrate the trueness, lateral run-out, if you will.

I would never attempt this, but it did prove a point. No burn marks either.

[Pat Germain]

I recently picked up an Avanti 80 tooth crosscut blade from my local borg. The price was right at $50 before tax. I've used it only a few times, but it did cut very nicely. It also spins very smoothly.

[NICK BARBOZA]

I agree with the Freud statements. I have a couple Glue line rip blades myself and love them. I also have a Freud crosscut one as well, i think it is a 60 tooth. they might be out of your budget though ($60-$80)

[Bas Pluim]

Don't get the Firestorm blade. I've used the Firestorm 60T "finishing" blade, and the cuts were poor. I now use it for cutting PVC pipe and other materials that could ruin my good blades. Only reason I bought it was because (a) I knew nothing about blades or woodworking and (b) the saw (now sold) came with a Firestorm 40T.

I have the 80T thin kerf Freud, and it cuts beautifully. I highly recommend it. Night and day difference compared to the Firestorm. If the Freud is too expensive, you may also want to look at Delta or DeWalt. There are lots of reviews on the web, and the winners vary slightly, but a common theme is price: Good blades start at $40.

[Bruce Page]

I don't think my purposes matter what thickness I need. Thin or standard I guess.

Joe, you mentioned that you have a “small tablesaw”. Generally, small tablesaws are underpowered and you would want to run thin kerf. My old Craftsman contractor TS cut hardwoods much better using the thin kerf blade.

[Randal Stevenson]

Not to hijack the thread but I'm having a little trouble visualizing what happened above.

My local show a few years ago (I think two), had a gentleman using a tuned contractor saw, on which he ran a piece of Oak through, and ripped thin pieces of veneer. At one point they stop pushing the material, and let it sit in an attempt to show it doesn't burn.

If you go to Woods site, they just revised thier review of Table Saw blades. Since I don't know how long it will be around, put www in front of woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/WOOD-Saw-Blades-II-The-Retest.pdf

In it, was an inexpensive, borg available Freud blade, if your looking for local. (Diablo)
This may also help show any spouse, the costs of blades (as well as "buddies" that want to borrow your equipment).

[JayStPeter]

I'd go here. This test is quite good and you'll be able to pick a compromise between price/performance pretty well from the chart given.

Jay

[scott spencer]

The test by Wood Mag was for 40 tooth general purpose blades, not fine finish crosscut blades.