My table design

[Amy Leigh Baker]

Why does the glass have to be 3/4" thick? Why not 1/4 or 3/8" then you could have it sit in a rabbeted ledge plus maybe one or two cross supports between the long rails. I've set 1/2" corian in a mitered frame that way and it's plenty sturdy but having the glass be the same thickness as the top complicates things plus probably jacks the cost up even higher.

I agree. I just made my first call to a glass company for prices. 3/4" at the dimensions I would need would be $171.00. They asked what the application was, and it was their opinion that for my uses it would be more than sufficient to use 3/8", the price would be $33.00, and as long as I didn't sit on it or "put all my pots & pans" on it it would be fine.

I would keep the overhang...better symettry and it accounts for the base moulding.

Okay, so if I have an overhang how do I attach the mirror? I think the mirror should line up with the rails, not flush with the edge of the overhang. This puts a 1x frame on it's edge in the middle of the table. I can't picture how I could attach it.

[George Bregar]

I agree. I just made my first call to a glass company for prices. 3/4" at the dimensions I would need would be $171.00. They asked what the application was, and it was their opinion that for my uses it would be more than sufficient to use 3/8", the price would be $33.00, and as long as I didn't sit on it or "put all my pots & pans" on it it would be fine.

Seems cheap for tempered glass.

Okay, so if I have an overhang how do I attach the mirror? I think the mirror should line up with the rails, not flush with the edge of the overhang. This puts a 1x frame on it's edge in the middle of the table. I can't picture how I could attach it.

Forgot about the mirror. You could stick with your idea and just use a cleat to strap it to the back, but it will be on the wall bacause of the base moulding on the wall. Or you could route a route a shallow mortise and make a tenon on the bottom mirror frame, then screw it in from the bottom. Or make a seperate mirror and simply hang it on the wall...this will allow it to be hung high enough.

[Paul Simmel]

Are those prices for tempered??? If so PLEASE post your source!

Edit: I'm going to be finishing a shower soon. Please, if tempered post your source.

[Amy Leigh Baker]

No, those prices were not tempered. I found the same glass, tempered, for $50 at one shop and $70 at another.

I'm attaching two drawings of my latest design. It's still not finished, but you could give your thoughts on what I've done so far.

• I made the rails 3"
• The tabletop overhangs 1 1/8" which puts the 3" 1x's on the tabletop frame centered on the apron rails. Note, there is no overhang in the back, where the mirror attaches and will butt up against the wall.
• The top is mitered in front, but has butt joints in the back, to keep the lines of the mitered corner from interfering with the mirror lines.
• Also to keep the lines in the top from interfering, I have made two examples. One has a small back rail which sticks out past the mirror. The other looks better to me, but I'm not sure about how to build it, or if it will support the glass correctly. I've also provided a back view for this.
• I am still on the fence about the mirror size. It seems very overpowering, but it is kind of the amount of mirror space I want. Any ideas?

[George Bregar]

I dunno Amy. I would take that SU and add the glass and mirror in, and then the rest wood. See if you still like it. I just think it is getting too many different surfaces, and all different geometries. Oak, mirror, and glass. Miters and butt joints.

If you want the mirror size large, increase the size of the piece, and keep the mirror inside the rails. Use miters on all or frame and panel joints...I would do the later...and do it all around (your current design will not support the glass of course). I also would forego the glass. It will show fingerprints and smudges, especially in a "make-up" role. Glass cleaner is not a very good substance to get on any urethane type topcoat. The previous caution for using a solid oak top, either in a glue up or using framed plywood, was a poor one. Go back and look, the examples shown were for solid wood raised panels which exaggerate the wild grain. Carefully select stock that is straight grained for the top frame, as well as plywood. Most oak plywood is not that wild.

Anyway, my two cents. HTH.

[Paul Simmel]

No, those prices were not tempered. I found the same glass, tempered, for $50 at one shop and $70 at another.

I'm attaching two drawings of my latest design. It's still not finished, but you could give your thoughts on what I've done so far.

• I made the rails 3"
• The tabletop overhangs 1 1/8" which puts the 3" 1x's on the tabletop frame centered on the apron rails. Note, there is no overhang in the back, where the mirror attaches and will butt up against the wall.
• The top is mitered in front, but has butt joints in the back, to keep the lines of the mitered corner from interfering with the mirror lines.
• Also to keep the lines in the top from interfering, I have made two examples. One has a small back rail which sticks out past the mirror. The other looks better to me, but I'm not sure about how to build it, or if it will support the glass correctly. I've also provided a back view for this.
• I am still on the fence about the mirror size. It seems very overpowering, but it is kind of the amount of mirror space I want. Any ideas?

Those are good prices for that glass!

-=-=-=-

Amy,

I can see exactly what is wrong. You are so very close.

No one is going to talk you out of the mitered top rails… and that’s good. So keep them. Glass, ply, etc., matters not in your design. But you **need** to simply stick with the simple lines and do the table top the same all around.

That in itself will produce a beautiful table. Dimensionally it’s very pleasing (legs thickness, apron size, top rails mitered (same size as your sketch)). So just stop there. You have accomplished your goal for the table itself.

Leave everything black & white… do not color anything. You’re looking at lines and proportion… which you have accomplished.

**Now**, draw in a wall behind the table. Color that if you want. Resize your mirror to exactly duplicate your top. Better yet, Copy your top and make it your mirror. Then position your mirror about 1” above your table top. (You can play with that 1” number. Maybe you will like 2”, etc.)

Your table will then stand out in all of its glory, and your mirror will very, very nicely compliment your magnificent table.

Note: To Copy, use the Move Tool, and push Ctr first (you will see a “+” sign).

Edit: You can also post the SU file so those who have SU can "fiddle" with it. Makes it easier on us.

[Bert Johansen]

Amy, I have just now read your thread, and concur with the last post. Keep it simple. Here is a table design of mine that served me well as my main dining room for many years. Now I use it in the shop for assembly work. It has a plywood top that sits on the legs, and is supported by many small cleats along the top rails that are glued in place. It is finished with automotive lacquer and originally had a marvelous look. And it will support lots of weight.

The top of the legs are notched to accept the rails, which are mitered at the corners. Very simple design. Built it in one day.

Click on this link to see the photo: Lock miter

[Earl Kelly]

Amy,

Please only use tempered glass on your table. It is more expensive, but if there's ever an accident, it's money well spent.

Concerning your mirror- Place the mirror where it will be used at. If your using this as a Vanity down low is fine, otherwise it is common to hang a mirror at eye level. I wouldn't be concerned with matching the width to the table. A taller narrow mirror may be more pleasing to the eye.

Earl

[Amy Leigh Baker]

Here's what I've done...

• It will definitely be a detached mirror hung on the wall. Much easier this way.
• Tabletop will be all wood. Glass would be gorgeous but just not practical.
• I added a shallow drawer that's "hidden" as the front apron. Poplar box with fingerjoints (if I can do them) and 3/4" oak face to match the table.
• I added a small cabinet to fit more of my tall items. I thought about making the cabinet front etched glass. I love the look and it might make the drawer seem less obtrusive. However it might make it more obtrusive.
• Still haven't decided on mirror size, but it's not important yet.

So essentially the front apron will be false all the way across. I really would like to not have the cabinet, but the table is kind of pointless if I can't store certain things within arm's reach.

I really have no idea how I will mount the drawer yet other than by some above mounted slides.

Please let me know any comments or suggestions!

Thanks guys!

Amy

P.S. I tried to load the SU file for your manipulation, but it is too big. I will figure that out later.

[Paul Simmel]

Looks ok to me. You can mount a drawer slide to the drawer frame on the right, and run a rail along the left side of the apron drawer to each leg on the left to mount the other drawer slide.

You know your top is going to be the only thing holding the table together on the front. If it suits you, by all means build it.

Good luck.