Big Hands, Small Plane

[John Erhardt]

Hi folks. I'm relatively new to hand planing, and I have a couple quick questions. I can currently get by with a #5, a #4, a low-angle adjustable mouth block plane, and a small LV router plane. But I've heard something about a slope, and I can feel my feet giving out just a little...

Anyway, I've quickly realized that my #4 just isn't going to cut it, for two reasons:

1.) I have big hands and long fingers, and it just feels too small in my hand. Gripping a #4 with all four fingers around the handle is too uncomfortable, and I bump into the lateral adjuster with my knuckle. Trying to grip a #3 was ludicrous, so I'm no threat to collect all the bench planes.

2.) I play guitar (classical) and so... yes, I have long nails. This is a woodworking handicap, I know, but it's the major reason I'm drawn to hand tools and not power tools (I'm in love with having ten fingers, what can I say). Gripping a #4 with my index finger extended and pointing to the toe seems to encourage my guitar nails to dig into the meat of my palm. And if this is the lamest excuse ever posted on this forum, you have my permission to delete my account and banish me to sculpting with play-doh or something equally soft and non-threatening.

I'm guessing one option is to move to a larger size for my smoothing needs, but I have no idea if a #4 1/2 is large enough, and I don't want to start asking my #5 to be both a roughing plane AND a smooth plane. So my first question is: is the *handle* of a #4 1/2 larger than on a #4, or is it just the sole that's larger? Am I going to have more room back there?

I admit I'm most attracted to going to a bevel-up smoother, as I'll have some faster(er) blade-switching flexibility in addition to the extra space for my hand since there's no frog, as well as the capacity to add a custom handle without bumping into the mechanisms. But I'm probably missing something, right?

Are there any other big-handed woodworkers who have dealt with something similar?

Sorry if this is rambling or long-winded, and thanks for reading.

J

[Jim Becker]

Welcome to SMC!

I'm certainly only a beginner when it comes to hand planes, but I know that a low-angle jack (#5) is very often recommended here even for smoothing work. Perhaps you should see if you can get your hands on one (literally) to see if it's more comfortable for you. If so, use it the majority of the time and use the #4 when you have to have the smaller size for the particular workpiece your, um...working...

[Robert Rozaieski]

Try to plane without "gripping" the tool. It sounds to me like you have a death grip on the tool. Loosen your grip and the three finger grip should be fine for you. If it's still uncomfortable, try an open handed grip similar to the grip that would be used with a wooden coffin smoother. The rear hump of the tote sits nestled in the lower palm (close to the heel of your hand) and all four fingers extend up the side of the plane. Imagine that the tote is solid all the way to the frog and that you can't wrap your fingers around it.

[Greg Cole]

Hi John,
I too have pretty big paws on the ends of my arms..... never had a problem with my #4 though? The suggestion to ease up on the grip is one thats easier said than done when you are getting started. If the iron's sharp you shouldn't have to squeeze the beejeepers out of the tote-handle. Also make sure your bench is low enough, I wound up chopping 4" off the legs on mine when I stepped on the slope, I was using way to much upper body & contorting my grip funny from having my bench set up for non neander work.

Cheers.
Greg

[Randy Klein]

You may want to learn how to make your own totes to custom fit your hands.

[Mike Cutler]

John

First. Welcome to Sawmill Creek. Nice to meet you.

My hands are 8 1/2" from wrist to finger tip, and I also play guitar( I'm not Segovia, but I can hold my own)
I think you may be holding the plane too tightly. I have no problems with the #4. But, your hands could also be longer than mine. I also am not gripping it with all 4 fingers. My ring finger and middle finger are wrapped around the tote, My index finger is pointed forward and my little finger is loose around the base of the tote, I can't "grip" a #3 either, my right hand position is similar to a left handed classical guitar position

There is no more appreciable room between a #4 and a #4 1/2" . If you're having trouble with one, you'll probably have trouble with the other.
You may, as you stated, want to consider the Low Angle Smoother and Low Angle Jack. There is more room, as the blade is lower. I personally like the low angle smoother,and will probably get a Low Angle jack in the future.

Try out the low angle planes. They really are nice for folks with bigger hands.

[Marcus Ward]

You're supposed to point your index finger along the plane anyhow, so the 3 finger grip is normal. Trying to strangle it with all 4 fingers is not conducive to smooth work. A 4 1/2 has the same handle as the 5 so that might be better for you. You could also make a custom handle, it's not hard. Good luck.

[Bob Smalser]

[Jim Becker]

Bob, you better get that thing to a doctor...I think it's got a malignant growth...LOL

Seriously, that's not a bad idea at all to accommodate the needs of larger hands.

[Greg Cole]

Bob has a way with words, or a way with the lack there of...?
The "growth" on show in the pic looks suitable to my "grip" on my #4... zi don't really grab onto it while pushing along... I more open palm it and glide along...

Greg

[Brian Kent]

I also have BHS (big hand syndrome). I agree with others about trying loose and open grips - or making a Bob Smalser monster grip set.

But I also found the perfect size grip for me in the Lee Valley Bevel Up Smoother and Jack. The Lie-Nielsen BU's fit nicely, but the Lee Valley's were made for me!

[Dan Racette]

Bob, You always amaze me. Innovative. Let me know if you ever need a ghost writer for your book.

I have short fingers but wide hands and those are the types of grips I like. I don't like either the grips in metal planes today or in the past. I do like bobs. I like the woodies.

Nice thread to bring it all up though.


d

[Clint Jones]

I just took some measurement for you to show there is a bit more room to grip a 4 1/2 rather than a 4. From brass adjuster to tote there is 3 /16 inch more clearance. From the bottom of the tote to the top of the tote there is a 1/8 inch difference in favor of the 4 1/2. Now here is the biggie there is a 1/4 inch difference from top of the frog to the tote in favor of the 4 1/2. That being said when I grip a no.4 with all 5 fingers (which isnt normal for me, I tend to use 4 with my index finger resting on the blade/frog for more control) my knuckle hits the top of the frog. On the 4 1/2 I can grip all 5 fingers withouth any part of my hand touching the metal on the plane (which feels awkward to me). The 4 1/2 is longer and wider measuring 10 1/4 inches long as the 4 only is 9 3/8 inches long.

Hope this helps.

Clint

[Jim W. White]

My number 3 has been relegated to the back shelf and is earmarked for my son at some point for just this reason.

The number 4 is tight for me also but usable with 3 fingers only

the 4 1/2 definately feels much better to me fit wise... but

since acquiring a LV Bevel-up smoother, I've never looked back. I now use a number 8 for flattening, the 4 1/2 for roughing, and the LV BUS for all smoothing. When things get real figured I brake out the LV scaper plane which has the same roomy tote.

Given the opportunity, I would sell the old bailey's and replace them with LV planes. The totes are not nearly as sexy looking as the old stanley's nor the LNs, but they seem to be the best fit for the "three sandwich eating hands" I have.

Jim in Idaho

[Thomas Knighton]

Thank God I have small hands

Tom