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Thread: Proper painted finish for cabinets

  1. #16
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    Mar 2003
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    Dale, there is a deep tint base available in the BM Impervo acrylic...I have a quart of it in a deep, almost black, green color. (my hall table project from last year) The SW Pro-classic acrylic doesn't have the deep tint base which is why I ended up with the BM finish.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Octon View Post
    Anyway: SW Pro Classic oil or Ben Moore satin oil by me. Latex is too hard to get a good finish and on a cabinet you do want a good finish
    The water borne acrylic versions of both ProClassic and Impervo are not "latex". They are 100% acrylics.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dale Todd
    The BM guy suggested their new Aura paint for the cabs as an alternative the their Impervo Oil paint
    I just got home from Brazil and checked the cans of the product being used on the walls of our addition. It's the new Aura...and it looks wonderful. Supposedly it has some ceramics added to it so that the flat/matt that's going on our walls is 100% washable. Check with the store, however, to make sure that product doesn't have a blocking problem when used in cabinets and shelving situations. The 100% acrylics generally don't, but this product is new to me. (not cheap, either....)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hudson, NH
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    Ok guys I need advice here. I just finished an entertainment center that i'm going to paint. first i sanded everything down to 220. then i just primed the first coat with SW Problocker. This is the best primer that i have ever used. so whats next. do i sand it down? and if I do, what grit paper do I use. do i put on a second coat of primer? Or do I just put 2 coats of top coat over the one coat of primer? BTW I'm using SW waterbased Pro Classic top coat.
    Thanks
    Dave

  4. #19
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    Mar 2003
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    Whether to sand the primer and recoat is a job for your fingertips to determine. Run them over your project. If it's smooth, or mostly smooth, a quick hit with 320 just to get rid of any "fuzzies" is all you need to do--go right to the paint then. If there is major roughness, sanding a little more aggressively with 220 and careful recoating with the primer will not hurt. You will likely need to do two coats of your paint, even though you primed. Despite the fact that many manufacturers tout "one coat coverage", in the real world, a second coat will give more satisfaction. (The walls in our new media room actually needed three coats due to the gold color...and what a difference that made. This was with pro painters working it, too.)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hudson, NH
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    436
    thanks Jim. I took the time to sand very smooth and remove all dust before i primed. The primer went on great and there will be very little sanding. I was probably going to go right to the topcoat but wasnt sure. I'll just wack it with 320. Should i sand between topcoats?
    Thanks
    Dave

  6. #21
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    Mar 2003
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    That's the right approach, Dave. Preparing the surface well first is very important. Then, and as I said, your finger tips will tell you what you need to do next. A light scuff with 320 just to remove any trash that appeared while the primer was wet is likely all you need.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Ipswich, Ma
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    681
    Thanks, Jim. I was inclining in that direction.

    - Ed

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