Rigid Bandsaw BS1400 "Tune up" I need help....

[NICK BARBOZA]

I have had this band saw for a few years now and sometimes i just shy away from it because i haven't gotten very good results from it in the past. I am giving the saw another chance because i think my previous poor results are most likely due to not "dialing it in"... and with some of the ideas i have for new projects, i will need this tool in good shape ready for action.

Sometimes it seems like the cut will just "drift" from where i am steering it. also the cut doesn't always remain square to the table, almost like the blade is flexing across the cut. i thought this might be the tension, so i tightened it. I also keep track of the guide blocks and make sure they are positioned properly to the blade.

maybe i just need a new blade...

any of you out there who have this saw or anybody at all, please advise me on how to fix it. part of my problem might be that i haven't used it enough to get really comfortable with it. Thanks in advance

[Howard Acheson]

Let me suggest that before you do anything else, you purchase either Lonnie Bird's or Mark Duginske's book on the bandsaw. Amazon will have either.

Both books will tell you how to set up and align your saw. They will also tell you which blade to use for each type of cut. There's is no such thing as a "general purpose" bandsaw blade. You must use the right blade for the material you are cutting and for the type of cut you want to make. If you are using the blade that came with the saw, you can probably throw it out. Almost all blades of that type are junk.

Both books will also tell you how to use your saw. A bandsaw is a very useful tool and can perform many functions.

[Roy Hatch]

Nick, I think a search on this subject will convince you that the bandsaw is a tool that can give you a lot of grief until you master the setup procedure. It seems I learn something new each time I use mine, so I am not an expert.

I wonder if you are still using the blade that came with the saw? If so, you need to realize that original blades are usually of the poorest quality and seldom offer much satisfaction. Perhaps a little more info regarding what you are attempting (resawing?) and what adjustments you have made will allow some specific recommendations.

If you haven't had much experience with this tool and nobody to offer instruction, there are several wonderful books available on the subject. One that many of us have found helpful is Mark Duginske's, The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw. No doubt other suggestions will follow.

Roy

[James Carmichael]

I have the same saw and use it quite a bit. It has it's limitations, but the most important thing is to keep a good quality blade on it, and don't cut curves with a blade that you want to use for straight-line work.

I also use cool blocks and set them right up against the blade (I have to re-dress them square pretty often).

[Michael Faurot]

any of you out there who have this saw or anybody at all, please advise me on how to fix it. part of my problem might be that i haven't used it enough to get really comfortable with it. Thanks in advance

In addition to the suggestions of books to read made by other folks, you could try taking a class. If there's a Woodcraft store around where you are, check to see if they offer a class on tuning up a bandsaw. I took this class from the Woodcraft store in my area, before I bought my first bandsaw, and it helped a lot. With a bandsaw, there's a variety of things that need to be tweaked and continually checked to insure it works at its best. Actually going through the tune-up process with someone there to guide me, made it that much easier to tune up my bandsaw.

[Lance Norris]

Nick... Im glad you started this thread. I remember your comment in another thread that you werent happy with your Ridgid. Ive had my BS14002 for several years now and it was pretty ugly right out of the box. Mine had bad tracking problems. New urethane tires fixed my problems. These saws also suffer from vibration problems because the stand isnt heavy enough. People have found that adding a plywood brace under where the saw bolts to the stand and also bolting a shelf to the lower area where the horizontal braces are, will really stiffen things up. Check your wheels for balance by spinning them with no blade, and the bottom wheel with the belt removed, and when they settle the first time, take a magic marker and mark a line on the face of the wheel at the bottom. Now spin it again and see if the wheel stops with the mark at the bottom again. If it does, thats a heavy spot in the wheel. Ideally, the wheel should stop at random spots every time. You can lighten the wheel at that spot, by drilling out a little of the aluminum the wheel is made of, in that area. Also, check your drive belt and see if it has a "set" which is a deformity from being scrunched up in the shipping box, or being wrapped around the pulleys for too long. The belt Ridgid uses isnt very high quality. A link belt will solve this problem.

As Roy above noted, the factory blades are junk, even the Ridgid brand blades the HD sell are bad. Believe me, from experience, I know. Finding a good source of blades will go a long way to helping your saw.

I only use my Ridgid with a small blade, I dont resaw with it(I have a big Grizzly for that) so I bought a Carter Bandsaw Stabilizer. Its used for 1/8-1/4" blades and really helps to control the small blades. It replaces the upper guide assembly and fits the Ridgid without modifications.

Roy also recommends a bandsaw book. I dont know anything about that specific book, but a bandsaw book is great advice. It will also give you lots of tips and tricks.

Keep us posted on your progress, we'll get you saw running the way you want in no time.

There is also a Ridgid forum with lots of good info on this saw.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10783
Urethane tires

http://www.carterproducts.com/produc...d=36&cat_id=14
Bandsaw stabilizer

[NICK BARBOZA]

thanks for all the help!! with just that little advise i am thinking of all the possibilities i will soon have with confidence in my bandsaw!

I am still at work and i would like to get a new blade for it.. does anybody know the length of the blade off the top of their head??? i want to go pick one up on my way home.

Thanks
Nick

[Greg Cole]

Nick,
I have the newer Duginski book, wife got it for me for Christmas....
Honestly, if you are new to the BS, it's definately worth having.. or if you're frustrated with yours (sounds like you are) I'd recommend it.
Honestly, if ya want it PM me and pay the shipping and you can have it.

Greg

[Lance Norris]

does anybody know the length of the blade off the top of their head??? i want to go pick one up on my way home.

Thanks
Nick

93 1/2" is standard

[Curt Harms]

Hi Nick

Unless You have a non-borg woodworking store such as Rockler or Woodcraft on your way home, You might be well served to hold off and order a blade(s). I learned the hard way about good blades. I had an older Grizzly steel frame saw that wouldn't perform decently for anything. I learned about bandsaw tuneup, coplanar wheels and quality blades. Spent some time tuning it up, put a good blade on it and what a difference!! I've had very good luck with Timberwolf and they ship pretty quick from Poughkeepsie NY., not all that far from You. There are other good sources such as Highland Woodworking. Olsen and Starett sell good blade stock and a competent store can make any length blade. The good news is 93 1/2" blades are very common length but Sears & Home Depot may not sell the highest quality blades.

HTH

Curt

thanks for all the help!! with just that little advise i am thinking of all the possibilities i will soon have with confidence in my bandsaw!

I am still at work and i would like to get a new blade for it.. does anybody know the length of the blade off the top of their head??? i want to go pick one up on my way home.

Thanks
Nick

[NICK BARBOZA]

YEa i am planning on going to Western Tool Supply. I have been buy quite a number of my tools there. anybody else have any experience with them??

I didnt get one last night but i am probably will today.

Cheers,
Nick

[Michael Ward]

I have had the Ridgid BS 1400 for 3 years now. When I first brought it home it was like a vibratory hammer. I spent a day balancing the wheels and tuning it up and no more vibration. I know, it should have been that way right out of the box, but I was determined to get it right.

However, the best thing I ever did for that saw was install Carter guide bearings (see pic). The saw is rock solid and I can resaw with no problem. ZERO blade drift and excellent tracking.

Michael

[John Lannon]

I have had this band saw for a few years now and sometimes i just shy away from it because i haven't gotten very good results from it in the past. I am giving the saw another chance because i think my previous poor results are most likely due to not "dialing it in"... and with some of the ideas i have for new projects, i will need this tool in good shape ready for action.

Sometimes it seems like the cut will just "drift" from where i am steering it. also the cut doesn't always remain square to the table, almost like the blade is flexing across the cut. i thought this might be the tension, so i tightened it. I also keep track of the guide blocks and make sure they are positioned properly to the blade.

maybe i just need a new blade...

any of you out there who have this saw or anybody at all, please advise me on how to fix it. part of my problem might be that i haven't used it enough to get really comfortable with it. Thanks in advance

I went through the same process as you when I first got my Grizzly 14" G0555. I got frustrated with it and let it sit in the corner of the shop for a long time. I have recently been using it alot, thanks to a new friend (local woodworker)who gave me some good pointers. I have using my saw alot more these days and having a blast with it cutting small boards from local trees. Although our saws are equiped a little different. The setup still remains the same.

1. If you still have the stock blade on it...................get rid of it. I have been using Timberwolf blades......but there are alot of good ones out there.

2. Get a set of cool blocks (guides). You can set the guide gap closer than the stock guides without excessive heat and wear. My Grizz uses bearings, so it doesnt apply to me. The guides should bet set about 1/16"-1/8" behind the blade gullets.

3. My woodworker friend has your Ridgid saw and only uses the width of a dollar (not folded) for a gap setting. I thought that the blade would heat up or the guides would wear really fast, but he uses it almost every day and has no problems with it. I can put my fingers on the blocks immediately after he stops the blade, and they are warm, but not hot.

4. Make sure that the blade runs on the center of the tires, or as close as possible. Check for coplaner at the wheels. They dont have to be dead on, but as close as you can get them.

5. Blade tension is also important, but how much you need to use is different with every blade manufacturer. The flutter test seems to work for me. Release the tension slowly until you see flutter, then slowly add tension until you see it stop. When it stops fluttering.........add another 1/2 turn for tension.

6. Make sure the table is square to the blade. If you use a rip fence, make sure that side of the fence is square to the table AND the blade.

Thats about all I go by when I'm checking out my BS. I hope this helps you.

[glenn bradley]

Here's a couple good ones.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...F.aspx?id=2474

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...F.aspx?id=2795

And this has more:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...oodWorking.com

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Nick,

I'm new to the bandsaw but I've got a pretty thorough technical background. I've got a brand new MM-16 waiting for my DC to finish installing and then the B/S becomes my main focus. Buy Mark Duginske's new book. You can find it at Amazon or Chapel Hill Publishing IIRC. It is a wealth of knowledge! I will use it as my "go to" reference once I'm ready to start with the b/s. Well written and illustrated.

Good luck.