Raised Panel Doors for Dummies (tm)

[Bill Karow]

I'm looking for a real simple introduction to raised panel doors in my router table. I'd like to find a good quality boxed bit set for the rails, stiles, and panel, very simple style. Can anyone recommend a bit set that's not too fiddly, or even a book that covers the topic well? I've watched Uncle Nahm a million times and I do grok the basics, but I'd like to find some more background material before diving in.

Given the time it's taken me to get comfortable on my new Leigh D4 dovetail jig, I've been reminded the learning process will probably be slower than I hoped, but it's not like I have any deadlines -- I'm just impatient. I'd like to start making raised panel doors while learning the smallest number of painful and/or expensive lessons that I can!

Then later this spring/summer, I'd like to get a few different raised panel bit sets and experiment, and as I posted in another thread, use the trial doors on a few shop cabinets. Keep the early projects close by so you're reminded of the lessons is my way of thinking...

Thanks for any help or recommendations.
Bill

[Chris Padilla]

Bill,

I'm partial to CMT's line of bits and I also picked up a video from sommerfeldtools.com (hosted by Marc Sommerfeld) on raised panel (Raised Panels Made Easy) construction.

Poplar is always a good cheap hardwood to practise on and I liked the video very much.

[Bill Karow]

Poplar is always a good cheap hardwood to practise on and I liked the video very much.

Chris -

Holy cow, a reply three minutes after I posted my question! Thanks for the tips -- I'm going over there to check that site now.

Bill

[Jim Becker]

There are a lot of good cutters out there to choose from. While I normally buy Jesada for router bits, raised panel cutters are the exception. For those, I prefer the Freud 2+2 design. These cutters have complimentary shear angles on the offsetting pairs of carbide surfaces which really keep the cut clean and tearout/"Fuzzy" free. But this is just a personal preference. The CMTs that Chris mentions are excellent bits as are Whiteside, Eagle, Amana and a host of others.

Don't forget you need a higher amperage router with variable speed to work with large, raised panel bits safety and effectively. They must also be used in a table. You probably know this, but there are folks really new to woodworking that might be reading this thread at some point...

[Bill Karow]

Don't forget you need a higher amperage router with variable speed to work with large, raised panel bits safety and effectively. They must also be used in a table. You probably know this, but there are folks really new to woodworking that might be reading this thread at some point...

Jim -

It's always good to be reminded, and thanks for the recommendations. I am in the process of finishing my router table, and I've got a new P-C 7518 sitting there begging for me to use it

The Sommerfeld set Chris pointed out looks great, and I like the fact it's self contained. I'm sure lots of people want to grab individual bits or matched pairs, but seeing them all together along with the tutorial on that site is a big help for me. I'm sure the Whiteside sets are also great.

Thanks-
Bill

[Kent Cori]

Bill,

I have a three piece Freud ogee style set that works great. The rail and stile bits are a matched set which seems to be the general preference out there. I have the 2+2 panel raiser and like Jim think it is one of the best designs available.

I made my first door of MDF. It is cheap (several early tries were terminal) and machines well. Once I had the set up correct, I simply cut up the door pieces to use as set up blocks the next time. You can also usually buy set up blocks for whatever set you eventually buy. It probably would be worth the time saved. Also, make sure you mark which side of each rail and stile board is the back. Inadvertently flippling a rail can cause you to have to start all over. DAMHIKT but at least it was only MDF. Another pointer is to make sure your router fence face is lined up with the bearing. If not, you'll get some rounding of the edges at the end of the pieces. This can easily be done with a 6" ruler, just make sure you have the fence face aligned with the bearing and not the bit shaft. Again, DAMHIKT.

Once I had the MDF door made and the technique down, I made four more doors of maple that turned out great.

Good luck!

[Chris Padilla]

MDF! Doh! Why didn't I mention that? Thanks, Kent.

Once ditty about MDF...clean your bits WELL after using MDF (plywood, too). While you are on sommerfeld's site, pick up some of the CMT 2050 bit cleaner and use it!

[Ted Shrader]

I'm looking for a real simple introduction to raised panel doors in my router table. I'd like to find a good quality boxed bit set for the rails, stiles, and panel, very simple style. Can anyone recommend a bit set that's not too fiddly, .. . . .
Then later this spring/summer, I'd like to get a few different raised panel bit sets and experiment, and as I posted in another thread, use the trial doors on a few shop cabinets. Keep the early projects close by so you're reminded of the lessons is my way of thinking...
Bill

Bill -

I generally agree with Jim's comments about Jesada and certainly CMTs are good bits. I have a Jesada ogee set that definitely meets your "not fiddly" criteria.

However, I just bought a 3½" diameter cove profile panel bit by Whiteside for the latest project. What a phenomenal cut! Got the bit from Jack at <a href="http://www.ballewsaw.com/">Ballew Saw and Tool</a> in Springfield, MO. The price was SIGNIFICANTLY (~30%) lower than at Woodcraft and generally (~5%) lower than other places that handle Whiteside. Also picked up a back cutter bit at the same time.

Will definitely try other Whiteside bits.

Regards,
Ted

Usual disclaimer: Not affiliated, etc.....

[Dale Thompson]

Bill,
You have already gotten advice from folks who are far more experienced and competent that I am. About the only thing that I can contribute is that you may wish to consider a VERTICAL bit for cutting the panels.

I've been around tools long enough where I respect them but don't really FEAR them. On the other hand, a 3" carbide "fan" spinning a few inches from my fingers gives me reason for pause. This is especially true when the air from the "fan" blows my CUB cap off!! I don't HAVE a vertical bit. The only time I think about it is when I am running panels. However, if I were to start over -- well -- at least I would consider one.

Don't worry, Bill, the experts will give us the real rundown on vertical vs. horizontal panel bits. They must remember, though, that we may not have power feeders and those other things that pros take for granted.

I SWEAR that I am going to get a vertical bit unless I get a good reason not to do so. But then, again - at MY age - I might forget.

HELP!!

Dale T.

[Chris Padilla]

Dale brings up some good points about bits: their diameters and rotational speed. I don't have a rule of thumb in front of me but the >3" dia. raised panel bits should be run at the lowest setting on your PC7518. If you go vertical as Dale is suggesting, they can be less scary and can be run at higher speeds and results in smoother cuts...perhaps.

[Bill Karow]

If you go vertical as Dale is suggesting, they can be less scary and can be run at higher speeds and results in smoother cuts...perhaps.

Chris and Dale,

The way I have my router table planned, I'll have a much larger surface for horizontal work than vertical. My understanding of the vertical bits is they will work well BUT if the panel wiggles at all, you're in trouble (ruined panel). Since I have a 7518 and a big horizontal surface...and a healthy respect for the spinning carbide frisbee...I think I'll try that at the slowest speed first. I may fabricate a bigger vertical fence support and try the vertical bits as well.

Kent, thanks for the MDF suggestion. I'll definitely practice that way, then scrub the bits before trying it on real panels. Plus it's always good to hear from Gator Country

Jim, when you mention the Freud 2+2, do you use the bits with integrated back cutters, or make that cut separately? Does anyone have a strong preference for the integrated back cutters, or against them?

Thanks!
Bill

[Ted Shrader]

. . . . A 3" carbide "fan" spinning a few inches from my fingers gives me reason for pause. This is especially true when the air from the "fan" blows my CUB cap off!!

Very true. It does get your attention and you must slow the router all the way down. Just take partial cuts on each pass. I plan on two deeper and one final, light, pass on a 3/4" thick panel.

Vertical bits have a smaller diameter, but they cannot be used on panels that have curves on the edge. A horizontal bit with a bearing to follow the edge is a must.

My scariest bit - a lock miter. That is a LOT of mass and the cut is made all at once. Although any router bit, no matter the size, will do significant damage to flesh and bone.

Think safety!
Ted

[Chris Padilla]

Ted,

I've used my lock-miter quite a bit. Set-up is such a PITA...I guess I just don't have a feel for it no matter how many web sites I find describing it. It always take me many, many test cuts to finally get a nice tight joint.

So I'm running the vertical piece (against a tall fence) on my router table and I end up with most of the tail (not the knife-edge point) getting blown out on my supposed expensive maple a-1 plywood! And, gee, after all that work to get it set up nice and tight and end up with a hole anyways...GRRRrrrrrr!!!!!

[Ted Shrader]

[i]. . . . Does anyone have a strong preference for the integrated back cutters, or against them?
Bill

Bill -

I don't like them. The wood is "trapped" between the two cutters. A bobble, bounce, or boink and you have an undesirable mark on one side. Additionally, to make multiple passes, you use the fence to make a partial depth (horizontally) cut and then reset the fence. On curved panels this is kind of tough without changing the bearing in the bit between each cut.

Granted, it takes more time to make additional cuts for the back cut, but if the panel slips (most likely up) all you have to do is make another pass.

Ted

[Kent Cori]

Bill,

I also use a separate back cutter but for slightly different reasons than Ted (although I agree with all his too). One reason is that it allows me to adjust the depth and height of the back cut. The second is that I prefer a 45-degree chamfer profile and the integrated ones all seem to be a quarter round profile. A few weeks ago I also used the separate back cutter to cut a decorative profile on the front of some raised panel doors and drawer fronts for my bathroom cabinets. I couldn't have done that with an integrated bit.

One other stray thought, buy a bag of spaceballs. They're little soft sponge rubber balls about 1/4" in diameter that fit in the inside slots on the rails and stiles. After the panel is inserted they keep it centered and prevent any rattling from seasonal shrinkage of the panel. Woodworker's Supply has them along with several other Internet vendors.

As usual, no affiliation blah, blah, blah...