Punched Tin door panels?

[Bill Grumbine]

Greetings all

Last night I met with a customer who wants a hall table built. He would like the table to incorporate a cabinet underneath the top, and would like, if possible, punched tin panels. Anything is possible of course, but he would like to see some samples if possible.

Does anyone have a source for pre-punched panels?

Second, does anyone here have experience with punching your own? Patterns, techniques, articles, etc would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Bill

[Roger Myers]

Bill, check rockler .com
they have at least some types..

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...id=49&catid=20

Roger

[John Miliunas]

Greetings all

Last night I met with a customer who wants a hall table built.

Hall table? But....but......But you can't DO that on your Poolewood, can 'ya?! I mean, here I am, all geared up and doing this round stuff, and then I happen across this disturbing thread about our fearless turning guru making some insidious inquiry about FLAT work??? Bill, Bill, Bill....You're confusing me! (Sorry gang, I just could NOT resist! I know, I know...I've seen some of his flatwork, too. It's beautiful, but still seems weird seeing this from the Turning King!)

[Jamie Buxton]

Van Dykes sell panels, and I think tools and patterns too. www.vandykes.com

[Bill Grumbine]

Thanks guys, for the links!

John, if it is any consolation, I am going to turn the legs. And hopefully, I will turn a profit! (ouch!)

Bill

[John Miliunas]

Thanks guys, for the links!

John, if it is any consolation, I am going to turn the legs. And hopefully, I will turn a profit! (ouch!)

Bill

Wellllll....OK. 'Long as the spinny thing is involved, I guess you're exonerated! We'll need pics, you realize!

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Bill
Yes, I did a bit of punch tin when in college (long time ago)
You need a hard board under the tin (copper, etc) to absorbe the force of the hit.
So you can use MDF or Hardboard (or such boards like that) or how about maple. Different densities allow different depth of chisel penetration and hence larger hole through metal.
Use a "light" hammer - not a 22 oz curved claw hammer.
It will allow you to proportion the amount of force driving the chisel through the metal.
But you could also use pine - the punch would go through further. (maybe you don't want that - too large a hole)
Any type of metal punch will work and give different designs
Ex. cut nails, chisel, old screw driver, knife, nail set, regular common nail (star shape), tang of a file, etc. whatever.
Make your pattern on paper and copy the paper for reproduction to various panels - Tape it to the metal panel.
Get a childs coloring book for animal shapes examples.
Hope that this helps.
Daniel

[Todd Burch]

Bill, http://www.piercedtin.com/ (Country Accents)is THE source for pinched tin, in my book. They have lots of samples and do it yourself kits as well. I have a set of blanks and the tools - just haven't gotten to it yet!

Todd.

[Rusty Hughes, Indy]

Hi Bill.

I punched my own tin once and tried to age it using ammonia cleaner. But something went wrong with my aging chamber and the panels did not look well at all. That is when Cheryl and I found Van Dykes and those wonderful copper panels they have pre-punched. We liked the copper better than the tin.

[Maurice Ungaro]

Bill,
Make sure you put the panels in with the "jagged" side out. A lot of folks don't and it looks ok, but is not authentic or correct.

Maurice

[Carl Eyman]

New Yankee Workshop did a Pie Safe once in which Norm punched his own. I don't believe I have it on tape, but I'll look. I'd be glad to let you borrow it if I do.

[Steve Beadle]

Does anyone have a source for pre-punched panels?
That Country Accents outfit usually has an ad in woodworking magazines such as Fine Woodworking or Popular Woodworking. They can send you a nice catalog of their pre-punched panels in various metals.

Second, does anyone here have experience with punching your own? Patterns, techniques, articles, etc would be appreciated.

Here's a picture of a pie safe I made, not using pre-punched panels. I just scanned the samples from a woodworking magazine's article and blew them up to the proper size on my computer. I printed the design and taped it to the sheet metal. I used an awl for some of the holes, and a partially hollowed-out 5/16" bolt to create a half-moon shape. Country Accents will sell you lots of different punches to create different effects. I just used a piece of MDF as a back-up board. It was a lot of work, but, still, a lot of fun, too.
Don't look too closely at the "tin," though. I just used galvanized sheet metal. It's not authentic, but it was a heckuva lot cheaper! I can always replace the panels if I want to. And I placed the prickly side to the inside--my preference.

[Steve Beadle]

Second try at posting picture of pie safe:

[Chris Padilla]

Steve,

Cool. Lemme take a stab: cherry-stained pine although it is fairly clear wood. Poplar?

The punched tin adds a neat touch...I like it!

[Bill Grumbine]

Thanks again guys for the links, pictures, etc. I am putting together a set of links for my customers so they can pick what they want.

As far as which way the holes go, I already discussed that with them. I told them that the pointy part out was authentic, but that since they have a small child, they might want to consider the pointy part in.

Pictures will come if and when I get the job.

Bill