Used table saw restoration... Input welcome

[Michael Gibbons]

Kyle, It wouldn't hurt to take the motor to a repair shop and have them go throught it and clean it up and maybe put in new brushes and such. Do it now while you are still working on the rest of the saw then it should be ready by the time your finished with the resto. Woodcraft used to sell a pulley kit for Delta and Craftsman. It came with 2 machined pulleys and a link belt. Check around.

[Joe Branch]

Originally Posted by Kyle Costlow
The fence is the XR 2424, it seems pretty solid to me.

I used that fence for 4 years with no problems. I even considered keeping it when I sold the saw. If you have the space consider adding to the rails, "53 is easily do able. Keep an eye open, CL, and eBay for the rails. The sane fence and rails are also used on the Rigid saw.

[Pete Bradley]

This motor shouldn't be too bad to work on. It's an induction motor so there are no brushes. The only potentially tricky thing is getting the centrifugal switch mechanism back together. I can't tell from the photo, but if this is one of the GE motors of that vintage, it's a pretty easy one.

Bearings will be some really common 6XXX size. A puller to get them off helps, but you can press new ones on with a piece of pipe with an id just larger than the shaft.

Pete

[Scott Kilroy]

The fence is the XR 2424, it seems pretty solid to me.

I've got the same fence. I got it off ebay for around $80.00. While its not perfect it's very good. One thing I'd recommend is to put a little bit of locktight on the setscrews.

[Kyle Costlow]

I went to sears and got some of the recommended rust free and t-9 stuff, I will try to get more rust off, any tips on using the stuff? anything I shouldn't do? I thought once I cleaned up the internal parts I would spray a liberal coating of t-9 and leave it be to protect it from rust(is that going to mess anything up?)

[Jim Heffner]

Looks as if you are getting it done right so far Kyle. I would not worry too much about the motor at this point, if you have a good air compressor,
use the air to blow out the motor as effectively as you can. I did not see
any oil ports on the motor, but if they are there....lubricate the bearings
with some light weight machine oil and let the motor run for a while, it will
help to free everything up.

As to the top cleaning, a good random orbit sander with scotchbrite pads
and a lot of WD-40 will have that top clean and shining like new in no time! For the underside of the top, bestway to remove that rust is to remove the top from the saw and then clean it. I would be more concerned with the saw trunnion than cleaning the underside of the saw.
Clean and lube every single part of that trunnion, until it works free and easy as if it were a new saw again....it will pay off in the long run.

I have an older contractor saw that I bought a while back, had been used hard, I mean hard, on the jobsite for years and neglected, never taken care of....I brought it back to almost new shape....now it works like a new
saw should and I like the way it works. Jim Heffner

[Richard Dragin]

Pull the motor off and take it to a shop to get a proffesional opinion.

First step in restoring an old saw is take off the blade.

Flip it over and WD-40 the snot out of it. Use a brass brush to clean it up. Take off the extensions and get the rust off between them and the table.

Wax the top with furniture wax (not car wax).

After it is clean you can start to check that everything is squared up but first you have to clean it up.

[Bob Swenson]

Kyle: About the rust on the case, just wire brush the loose rust and paint it
With Por-15. This remarkable paint will rust proof the metal for a lifetime.
Cost a little, but there is nothing like it.

Bob

[Greg Crawford]

Kyle,

The Rust Free will take black oxide off just as it will rust. If you have any parts that have the black oxide coating, try to keep the Rust Free off of them, or they'll turn nice and silver.

The T-9 is great stuff. In the Texas humidity, I've found it to be the only thing that will consistently keep my tools and machines from rusting. I coat almost all my bare metal with it. I also clean and re-coat the most often used surfaces (TS top, jointer bed, etc.) 2-3 times a year. Yes, it feels sticky when you have a thick coat, but buffing it with a dry cloth helps, and if it needs to be slick, like a table saw top, I also wax it. So far, it's worked well for me.

[Kyle Costlow]

Heres the table after WD-40 and the best scrubbing I could do.

After Rust Free

(I didnt do the extension wings since I dont plan on using them for very long)
I cleaned the motor as best I could with my air comperssor
before;

after;

[Kyle Costlow]

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5425-...3895906&sr=1-1

Would these be compatible with my saw? Would they be a good upgrade? Are they hard to install?
Thanks.
Kyle

[Rob Will]

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5425-...3895906&sr=1-1

Would these be compatible with my saw? Would they be a good upgrade? Are they hard to install?
Thanks.
Kyle

Hey Kyle,
You can also get those machined pulleys at the local bearing shops. Take your old pulleys with you. Regardless of where you get them, they should be fairly straight forward to install. You might need a small gear puller and a brass hammer or a block of wood. NEVER hit the shaft or your new pulley with a steel hammer.

You will want to do everything you can to precisely line the pulleys up. I often use a 3' metal yardstick across the outside face of both puleys. Don't forget to check for twist - (if your motor is leaning left or right).

If your motor gives problems or you don't like the sound of it you can upgrade that saw by installing a name brand 1 hp motor (such as a Baldor etc.). I did that to my Craftsman saw and it was much stronger than before. Depending on what you have, a new 20 amp receptacle on the wall and a short 12 gauge extension cord would be on my checklist as well.

On the Rust Free, you can do it again and rub the surface (while it is wet) with a red (coarse) scuff pad mounted on some sort of sander. I would do one section at a time. When you are done, you can wash off the goop with soap and water but you have to be VERY QUICK. Get it dry and spray some WD40 on it right away. When you have cast iron that clean, it will rust right before your eyes.

Here's one more rust removal tip. Lots of folks around here start with scraping the rust with straight razor blades. You will go through two or three blades but this works better than I ever thought possible. I think your current project is past the razor blade trick but remember it for future reference - we are all convinced you will be restoring OLD IRON very soon.

Rob

[Rob Will]

Kyle,
Without knowing what you have or have previously done with a table saw, here's a set of DVD's that are pretty good. I bought this set for myself. http://www.mikestools.com/900911K-Je...VIDEO-DVD.aspx

We all remind each-other around here about safety regardless of experience.

I once had a Craftsman saw pick up a small scrap with the back of the blade and fling it at me. It hit me right in the face. Be sure you understand this and how to avoid other forms of kickback. I would recommend you use a thin kerf anti-kickback blade. Perhaps something like this: http://www.freudtools.com/p-50-thin-...onbr-nbsp.aspx

You may also want to look into some feather boards and push blocks and sticks.

I also have several Forrest WWII and other industrial blades but I think you will like a modern thin kerf blade better.

Rob

[Kyle Costlow]

I found this motor on ebay. It says its a 3 hp from a 315. 228510, wired for 120... From what I have picked up, that sounds impossible, I thought that over 2 hp required a 220 circuit. aside from that, could I put this on my saw?
I also found this one, its a Dayton 1.5 hp, seems to be missing the capacitor. Is this a better choice, how easy is it to find/install a capacitor(if thats what it need.)


Rob, thanks for all the great info

[Jon Lanier]

If you want to save some scrub time in rust, does some paper towels with Coke-Cola. Yep... over night. Wipe off, then I use Naval Jelly, then some scrub time, but not as much.