Cool Blocks for MM16

[Roger Bell]

Cool blocks are now available for the MM16. I find that the stock euro guide bearings on mine loosen up all too frequently during sawing, so I am considering the CB as an alternative.

Anyone tried them yet?

[Dan McCallum]

I have the MM16 also. I have not tried the cool blocks (you might try a post to the MM user's group), but have noticed that my stock guides seem to 'sag' a bit. For example the side guides are hard to adjust close to the blade because the bottom of the guide tends to contact the blade well before the top does. Is that the same problem you have?

Dan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Cool blocks are now available for the MM16. I find that the stock euro guide bearings on mine loosen up all too frequently during sawing, so I am considering the CB as an alternative.

Anyone tried them yet?

I just give my adjustment rings a little turn with pliers to tighten them. I have no problem with them loosening. Notice I said " a little turn". It doesn't take much.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have the cool blocks but haven't tried them yet. Maybe in the next few weeks.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

What size are the cool blocks for the MM16? I've been trying to get blocks that are 3/4" square for an old bandsaw but the largest I've seen are 1/2" square.
-Jeff

[Jim Becker]

I've had them since 2003 when I bought my MM16...they are not new. That said, I haven't used them yet as I've never put a narrow blade on the saw!

Jeffrey, you need to have the kit to hold the blocks in addition to the cool blocks themselves. If I can find my kit, I'll measure them, but I'm not sure where in the shop mine are right now.

[Scott Welliver]

I purchased cool blocks with my MM16, in October 2007. The holders are milled aluminum, the blocks themselves are 1/2" diameter. Photo attached.

[Jim O'Dell]

Something I saw Sam Blasco do on his MM bandsaw is to take a block of wood of some sort, cut a kerf in it with the bandsaw blade, then rotate it to the rear of the blade to use as a "guide" for the back of the blade. Only cut deep enough so the blade fully seated in it still had the teeth of the blade outside the kerf. Then "pinch" the block of wood between the factory guide bearings, centering it to the blade, then adjust the thrust bearing up against the back of the block. That way you have both set ups without a long install process. I'm guessing you could use a block of phenolic or UHMW plastic just as well. Jim.

[Scott Welliver]

Something I saw Sam Blasco do on his MM bandsaw is to take a block of wood of some sort, cut a kerf in it with the bandsaw blade, then rotate it to the rear of the blade

Right here on SC:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26314

In retrospect, I would not have ordered the cool blocks if I had realized the setup time involved (removing all the guide blocks, installing different guide blocks for the cool blocks).

I've been using a carter stabilizer for small blades, and no guides at all. But if I decide I need guides for a small blade, I may use the wooden block trick instead of the cool blocks.

[Mike Spanbauer]

I've those same ones as Scott but with Ceramic guides.

It works.

mike

[Jim O'Dell]

Scott, thanks for finding the thread! Jim.

[Roger Bell]

Thx for the old thread. I will try that first.

[Mike Heidrick]

Looks like Laguna has some videos on Youtube.

I also found the one titled LAGUNA Bandsaw guide spark.

What is up with that sparking?? Is that supposed to happen??

[Mike Spanbauer]

Nope, I was wondering that too when I first saw that. I'm wondering if they have some metal filings in their ceramic guides for some reason? like brake pads? I don't know.

My MM ceramics have no metals in them at all.

mike

[Jim O'Dell]

IIRC the sparking has been commented on before, and the thought was that it was no big deal. I suppose if it stayed hot and got into the dust collection dust, that thought might change! Haven't heard any reported problems with it, and multiple people here at the Creek have the Laguna saws. Jim.