Norm's Mitre Bench and Storage

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Has anyone built this? It looks pretty straightforward, and I would like to take it one. Any advise out there? Any tricks?

Thanks,

Dwain

[John Cooper2]

Here is a thread I found. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...49083#poststop

to me the downside looks to be a tonn of wasted bench space where the saw goes.

I use a miter saw allot, but it is on a rolling cart at the moment, thinking of something that is still portable, but can have some wings that fold up when needed.

[Rick Potter]

Dwain,

I have a setup somewhat like Norms, with my RAS and chop saw next to each other with a fence (with stops) and 6" wide table off to the left for 4' or so (should have made it 8').

The difference with mine is that the RAS is on its base on top of the table, not set flush with it. It uses the normal RAS table with the additional 6" wide extension mentioned above. The chop saw is immediately to the right of the RAS at the same level.

By having it above the table you have use of the table for cutoffs, tools, and whatever, rather than having to clear a whole table off to make some cuts. It also puts the saws at a more comfortable height for use.

Works great for me.

Rick Potter

[Geoff Potter]

I am going to build the same bench and I am thinking of making the fences detachable so that the bench area can be used. I also want to incorporate my mortiser on one end and I am going to incorporate a small jig for bisquit cutting. i can't wait to have all that storage!

[Greg Caputo]

I built one a couple years ago. Modified the plan a bit to fit the length of the wall. Plenty of storage and looks good in the space. Easy to build. About the only thing I wish I had done is to recess the miter saw space so the saw bed would have been flush with the surrounding bench. Otherwise I've happy with the results. I also used Cutlist Plus to help me figure out how many sheets of plywood to buy since there are so many cuts to make and since I modified it to fit my space better. I was really able to get the most out of each sheet because of Cutlist.

Greg

[Steve Leverich]

Geoff, here's a thought - make your fences so they sit on a flat length of MDF that extends almost to the rear of your bench - then hinge them with piano hinges so they can be tipped up and back to use the bench space, or laid back down (without having to re-align) for use with the chop saw.

This is a variation of my plan, which will use two 2' x 8' butcher block topped benches I got from Costco for $199 each (cheaper than just the tops would have cost elsewhere, come with square tube steel legs with levelers)

If my idea isn't clear (and you want more info) just ask and I'll post a sketch... Steve

[Lee Koepke]

I like Steves idea. Wish I had heard it 3 months ago !!!

I thru bolted mine, so I can remove if I want to. The base cabinet to the left is solid maple salvaged science casework. The top of the fence is like 12", so I have room for the cut pieces as I work.

[Ben Cadotte]

I am about to do the same thing in my shop. Except on a slightly longer scale. 3 - 8' benches, 36" inbetween the first 2 of the 8' for RAS, and a 2' for my SCMS between the middle and last 8' bench. Only thing I need to change in the plans I have is to now mount the bench mortiser between the RAS and SCMS on the middle 8' bench.

I am going to work on my Table saw first. Going to build a new (3rd generation) extension table to the right with router and base cabinet. Currently its just an extension with open shelves. Also going to add an extension to the left with another router mount. This time going to do them cabinet style instead of open shelves. Make it look a little more presentable.

Goal is to do both in 10 days. For me that would be amazing though. Going to use Poplar ply that Borg sells. So about $450 just in sheet goods.

[Don Abele]

I built mine back in 2003 using the plans as a starting point and then modified from there. As others have said, I don't like the fences being above the table. It makes the top almost useless as any type of work surface. This table has been moved twice now and I don't know if I'll take it with me on my next move. I think I may build a new incorporating flush mounted fences on tracks that can be slid back. Not sure - have to work out the details before then.

Anyway, here's a shot of mine from '03:



The thread on it can be found here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5025

Be well,

Doc

[Geoff Potter]

Steve, that's a good idea but I thought I would use some t-nuts and star knobs to hold the fence in place. When I need the bench, remove the fence completely.

Geoff, here's a thought - make your fences so they sit on a flat length of MDF that extends almost to the rear of your bench - then hinge them with piano hinges so they can be tipped up and back to use the bench space, or laid back down (without having to re-align) for use with the chop saw.

This is a variation of my plan, which will use two 2' x 8' butcher block topped benches I got from Costco for $199 each (cheaper than just the tops would have cost elsewhere, come with square tube steel legs with levelers)

If my idea isn't clear (and you want more info) just ask and I'll post a sketch... Steve

[Steve Leverich]

"t-nuts and star knobs to hold the fence in place"

Thought about that plan and may still go with it - but if I do, I'll add a pair of adjustable stops near the rear of the bench that will stay in place - that way, instead of having to realign the fence each time it's moved, I can just push it up against the stops and tighten the star knobs... Steve

[Alison Gray]

I plan on building something similar. I am in one stall of 3 car garage and have one long wall. I plan on putting two benches along the wall with the MS in the middle. I am going to recess it and make the fence removable. I also plan on having open bays under one of the benches as I have my planer on a cart that flips up as well as my router table. That way I can store both when not in use and free up some space.

[Denny Rice]

I purchased the plans for the Mitre Bench and Storage from the NYW last month after seeing it on DIY network a couple of months ago, it looks really cool. I hope to start on it early summer.

[Paul Greathouse]

Dwain

I built the Norm Miter Bench and Storage that John provided the link to. I have been using it for a little over a year now and I would do it again. It may not be the best option for everyone depending on how you work and how much room you have.

I have a 30X50 shop and have plenty of room for it but in a small shop I think the only advantage to it would be the storage. If you need the top to function as a full work bench it is not the best way to go. I have a 3'X8' work bench on wheels and I also have the Norm Workshop Hutch.

I have one corner of my shop setup almost identical to Norms except I have an EZ smart table setup next to the Miter Bench and Storage. My tablesaw is on the other side of the EZ smart table pretty much in the middle of the shop.

I do alot of small work on the Miter Bench and Storage tabletop. My dovetail jig is on one end and a benchtop drill press dedicated to boring 35mm holes for cabinet doors is on the other end. There is still plenty of room for small parts (stiles, rails, drawer parts, door parts or complete doors) in front of the raised miter saw fence.

The other day I was assembling a small kitchen island on my big work bench and needed room to also assemble a wall cabinet. There was just enough room in front of the miter saw fence for the wall cabinet without feeling cramped.

So to sum it up, if you have alot of room or if you don't need to use the top for assembling large projects it would be a very good addition to your shop.

[Barry Nelson]

I did the same thing as Lee using the bench top as an infeed table works great,now to get the dust under control,might enclose the back half of it.