And the fun begins..... yet another DC project!

[John Keeton]

After weeks of absorbing all the experiences and ideas from this great group of folks, I bit the bullet and ordered a 2.5 hp Super Gorilla cyclone system. It came in today - 6 boxes!- and now the real fun begins. I will have to move several things in the shop in order to install this thing. I should have been doing that already, but would rather work on the current woodworking project! I was dreading the install, but after getting delivery, I'm starting to actually get excited about this thing. I will try to take pics along the way and post if anyone's interested. Figure everybody's about burnt out on the DC topic, but I can really start to feel the difference after a day in the shop, and I didn't use to be able to do that. Hoping this will prevent some of the problems others are already having. Wish me luck....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Go John!


Saturday while setting up my new MM-16...I sawed for about 30 seconds without DC......I won't make that mistake again. Much cleaner with!

Good luck with your install!

[Shawn Honeychurch]

Good luck John;

Have fun and enjoy the learning process.

Shawn

[Jim Becker]

Congratulations, John! BTW, do not underestimate the need for the assistance of one or two people when you hang the blower assembly, etc. It's heavy and awkward. Don't get hurt or damage the unit by being "under-staffed" during that portion of the assembly!

[Jerry Booher]

John, you may want to see all of the mistakes I made installing the 2.5 Super Gorilla to help you avoid them. http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74376

Jerry

[John Keeton]

Thanks for the encouragement! I know Ken has recently gone through this and I enjoyed reading about his project. Many of the experiences of the other creekers will hopefully have helped me avoid some potential problems.

And Shawn, I was much smarter when I was a teenager! Since then, I have discovered how much I need to learn - everyday! Just studying this project has already been an interesting project.

Jim, I had already read some posts on getting the motor and impeller installed on top of the unit and it is apparent after lifting that box I am going to need help. It wasn't too bad on the ground, but on a ladder would be a challenge. I am not a big person anyway and I am installing my unit high so that I can run my duct in a straight run from the outlet at about 8.5 feet high. That is going to increase the difficulty of getting the weight up there, but I think the end result will be more efficient.

I have ended up going with 6" hvac for ducting. Apparently the petroleum pricing is driving pvc costs up more than even the metal costs. It was going to cost 3 to 4 times as much to go with pvc compared to the hvac.

Just saw Jerry's reply and have edited my reply. Jerry, I did see your previous post and went back to the drawing board in thinking out my system. I have more headroom than you did, and am able to install higher and still clear the motor. The real issue will be getting the motor up to about 10 feet or more from floor level!!

[Jim O'Dell]

John, I built a separate stand for my unit (A Clear Vue) I have 2 vertical 2X4s and built triangular based arms that slide up and down those. Mounted the motor and blower housing to that, and "walked it" up the 2X4s with some screws protruding the lower end of the triangle support so that it would grab the wood when I needed to regroup and get higher on the ladder for the next push. Kind of like a lineman walking up a telephone pole with the spikes on the feet. Once I got to the level I wanted. I ran the screws on in, plus some at the top end to secure it. The top of my motor is about 10' off the ground. I did this by myself, but shouldn't have. I paid the price with a strained back, for a week or so, getting the motor up on the unit about 6' off the ground. I should have started a lot lower and moved up from there. So get help! Jim.

[John Keeton]

Jim

My first thought is to use the metal wall mount that comes with the cyclone. I have a metal shop building and am concerned that I will get a lot of extra transmission of noise. May end up afterward constructing a wooden stand like you to carry the machine and isolate the noise. Sounds like a workable plan on the "jack lift" system you built. The Clear Vue motor is much larger and heavier. I haven't gotten a good feel for the weight of the 2.5hp motor, but it seems considerably lighter than Ken's upgraded 3hp at 105lbs. I would guess mine weighs 75lbs. I am considering a block/tackle set up on a truss. There have been some comments about downward force on the truss, but my shop is insulated with closed cell foam spray and that goes a long way to spread any force on the individual trusses and it isn't really that much weight. But, still cipherin' on the motor plan!

[gary Zimmel]

John

Congrats and happy installing...

Keep us up to date on how it progresses.

[Travis Gauger]

Jim

My first thought is to use the metal wall mount that comes with the cyclone. I have a metal shop building and am concerned that I will get a lot of extra transmission of noise. May end up afterward constructing a wooden stand like you to carry the machine and isolate the noise. Sounds like a workable plan on the "jack lift" system you built. The Clear Vue motor is much larger and heavier. I haven't gotten a good feel for the weight of the 2.5hp motor, but it seems considerably lighter than Ken's upgraded 3hp at 105lbs. I would guess mine weighs 75lbs. I am considering a block/tackle set up on a truss. There have been some comments about downward force on the truss, but my shop is insulated with closed cell foam spray and that goes a long way to spread any force on the individual trusses and it isn't really that much weight. But, still cipherin' on the motor plan!

John,
you should have at a minimum a 40# deadload rating on your trusses. 40 pounds per square inch when taken over a truss is quite a bit of weight it can hold. And that is before there will be noticable deflection, not failure. I would still get a few neighbors over to help, just saying that you shouldn't have to worry about trusses not holding. Nice unit you got there, good luck on the install, I can't wait to see the updates. I will be starting my shop and hence DC system in about a month. As soon as the great white north turns... well um, not so white.

[John Keeton]

Last weekend was the start of the install of my new Gorilla 2.5hp! Had a woodworking project in progress and needed to get some manual help, but it came together pretty smoothly. The local hvac supplier did not have some of the fittings I needed, but those are in. I will start the ductwork tomorrow. May not make a lot of progress with Easter, the grandkids, and 300 eggs to hunt, but should get a good start. Will do another post with a couple of pictures of my anticipated runs - ran out of image space.

[John Keeton]

I plan to come off of the unit with a short straight pipe, then a do a drop to the band saw (with two 4" flex runs to the ports), then split with a "Y" and make 2 main runs to each of the views shown. Probably doesn't make much sense the way I have stated it, but will try to post more pics as it progresses.

[John Keeton]

Here's the next phase of the DC install. I need to install some framing between the trusses to support some of the runs, so couldn't go further. It isn't too late to change some of this stuff, so I welcome any thoughts from all those that have done this before. I couldn't have accomplished this without the great input from Creekers!

So far, the install has gone smoothly. The foil tape is amazingly tacky and gives great solidity to the overall system. I am trying to silicone all the fittings as I go, so when I get done, should only have to go back and check for leaks.

I suspended the duct from the trusses. Took some scrap poplar and cut pieces 3/4" x 1 1/4" by 15" long. Then took a piece of oak about 1/4" thick by 3/4" about 5" long, drilled a hole through it, ran a screw into the end of the poplar creating a tee that would rotate. Screwed the poplar to the truss and rotated the oak tee in the direction of the duct and then used 2 zip ties to secure the duct. Not sure this makes sense, but will try to post a close up as this thing progresses. They seem very light weight for the job, but very solid. Kind of surprised me that it worked.

Worst thing about this install is that it consumes the shop. NOTHING gets done while this is going on. I have bits and pieces of duct laying everywhere, and every tool has stuff sitting on it. Does keep me motivated to get it done though!

[Karl Laustrup]

Very nice install John. I see you've made it possible to add the bigger collection drum. Good idea. That small drum will fill very quickly.

I started with the small drum and quickly changed to the larger drum. In fact I didn't even get mine hooked up and running before I ordered the larger drum from Oneida. You can also get a longer hose so the drum can sit on the floor.

Karl

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Go John! Nice clean looking installation! I like the idea of the T-heads that will rotate and the use of ty-raps! Nicely done sir!