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Thread: TS advice and a local Grizzly 1023

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Dearborn, Michigan
    Posts
    109

    TS advice and a local Grizzly 1023

    Hello, everyone.

    I've been lurking on the forums for a while now and have finally registered. You all are a wealth of information! I look forward to becoming a contributor and an active member of the community.

    My woodworking career is relatively new and has reached the point where I can't advance much further without a table saw. I've been researching them for a few months now, trying to decide whether I should be targeting a contractor saw, a hybrid, or a cabinet saw. My budget is limited to roughly $600 and I am shopping primarily used equipment, so I am hoping my dollar can go further than normal that way.

    My garage is my workshop, so mobility is essential. But with mobile bases, I know I can move around just about any type of saw.

    While ideal, a cabinet saw is almost out of my price range (see below). A contractor saw is well within my range and a hybrid is right on the border (again, speaking about used saws -- although used hybrids seem to be few and far between). My questions:

    1. Is a left-tilt saw critical? If I have a safety-oriented mentality, will I be fine with a right-tilt saw as my only table saw for years to come?

    2. Are enclosed cabinets and greater stability the only advantages of a hybrid?

    3. When well calibrated and with a good fence system, can a contractor saw be as accurate, precise and reliable as a cabinet saw?

    4. Saw-specific question: Yesterday, I found a local Grizzly 1023 with Biesemeyer fence with 6' rails and multiple blades -- including a dado -- going for $400. From my limited experience with saws and shopping the market, this seems like a steal to me. However, I have read on various forums that older Grizzly saws are less favorable than newer models. Is there a range of years that I should avoid? My other concern with a Grizzly is that it's not American made. While I don't doubt the great reviews I've read from owners, I feel I get unquestionable quality and reliability from American-made tools.

    I certainly appreciate your help with this. As this will be the backbone of my new hobby, I really want to make the right decision the first time.

    Regards,

    zayd alle

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    1,389
    Welcome to the community.

    1. The main advantage of left tilt is that with the fence on the right, if you are cutting any angles other than 90, you don't pinch the material between the blade and the fence. For sliding table saws where the work is primarily on the left, a right tilt saw would have more advantages.

    2. Motor being interior is an advantage over it hanging out of the backside. There may be others, but someone else on here would have better answers than I.

    3. Contractor saws are limited in table size (unless you build extension wings). Good features (fence) would have a hard time overcoming the small tables, and it would be difficult to work on with larger stock.

    4. I don't have any experience, so can't comment on this. But grizzly by-and-large is very good bang for your buck, i am happy with my bandsaw from them, and their customer service has a great reputation.

    Personally I have a Ridgid TS3650, its standard fence works great and i enjoy its mobility. It is a good bang for the buck and handles what I need it to do. In a few years i may look at a larger cabinet saw (1023l series or a nice unisaw if i can find a used one).
    Grady - "Thelma, we found Dean's finger"
    Thelma - "Where is the rest of him?!"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    6,224
    Welcome Zayd,

    If I were you I'd go for it. That is an excellent price, assuming it runs. I have a left tilt, but it is not the only way to go. Because of the "trapped" piece in an angled cut, I would spend a little for the perfect splitter with pawls, or other hold-down system to avoid kickbacks.

    I'm glad you have found the creek.

    Brian Kent
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Rudolph, WI
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by zayd alle View Post
    4. Saw-specific question: Yesterday, I found a local Grizzly 1023 with Biesemeyer fence with 6' rails and multiple blades -- including a dado -- going for $400. From my limited experience with saws and shopping the market, this seems like a steal to me. However, I have read on various forums that older Grizzly saws are less favorable than newer models. Is there a range of years that I should avoid? My other concern with a Grizzly is that it's not American made. While I don't doubt the great reviews I've read from owners, I feel I get unquestionable quality and reliability from American-made tools.


    zayd alle
    That is a good price for a Grizzly 1023 especially with a Biesemeyer fence and a dado set. About three months ago I found a Grizzly 1023 right tilt with a slider and I paid $400 for it. But, check it out before you put any money down on it to make sure it wasn't abused and that everything works. Have the seller saw a piece of lumber with it if possible to see if there is any vibrations or noises that don't seem that they should be there. There might be a little vibration with the saw starts and stops, but when it is running it should be steady as a rock.
    One thing you have to be aware of is that you will need a 240 volt electrical supply to run most cabinet saws. This is one reason many people go to a hybrid or a contractor saw.
    As for buying American made tools I'm sorry to say it is very hard to find any tool that isn't made outside of the US.
    Last edited by James Suzda; 03-13-2008 at 1:10 PM.
    It's a biiiig mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize that you are in a hurry.
    _____________
    Jim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,576

    G1023

    I have a mid 90's straight 1023. It came with the knockoff JetLock fence which was sorry, I have a Mule on it now. A real biese fence is worth $200+ by itself so if the motor is sound and no cracked castings, I'd say it is worth $400. Bearings are easy to replace if need be. Seeing it work would certainly ease my mind if I were in your shoes.

    HTH

    Curt

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Dearborn, Michigan
    Posts
    109
    Thanks for the advice, guys. I'm nervously waiting for the guy to contact me. It was a craigslist listing and it's been over 36 hours since my email to him! (aaaah, the irrational anticipation of a new tool purchase... )

    I figure rewiring the garage for 220V isn't a big deal. The garage needs to be rewired anyway, as the previous owner wired every receptacle/light through a single 15A GFCI... I'll never figure that one out.

    Again, your advice is much appreciated... I'll likely post a picture or two of whatever I purchase. My wife doesn't share my anticipation, so someone has to

    zayd

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