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Thread: Finishing spalted maple

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada
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    213

    Finishing spalted maple

    I originally posted this in the turner's forum but didn't get any response so I thought I'd try here.

    I have turned my first hollow form with my mini monster hollowing tool and have applied several coats of antique oil finish. The piece is spalted maple and of course there are a few dull spots that I don't believe will 'come up' with buffing. Any ideas as to how I can get a uniform shine on this piece? I'll post a photo once I'm more satisfied with the appearance.


    The oil finish has cured for several weeks now so should I buff, shellac, then use my water-based lacquer? Any idea on getting a uniform sheen on this piece would be greatly appreciated.

    Michael

  2. #2
    I'm no expert in this area, but I remember (just barely) a method my dad used on turned bowls. He called it French Polish and it seemed like a fairly complex process of applying mineral oil and then buffing it with a pad that had some alcohol and something he called "rotten stone" on it followed by shellac. I don't remember the steps he followed, but the whole procedure was done with the workpiece slowly spinning on the lathe. The results were quite stunning. The finish was glass-smooth and seemed to fill all the gaps in the grain. I'm sure others on these forums could fill in the details of the method.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    213
    Thanks James. The piece is off the lathe now and I could still use the method you mention but just do it by hand. Maybe the shellac step is all I need to get where I want to be.

    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,950
    French polish involves shellac on a rubber (pad with wadding inside) with a little BLO to lubricate the pad. It puts a very, very thin layer of the finish on...wipe it; leave it. Do not "work" the finish.

    The "dry" spots are sometimes tough as you need to get the finish to build more there. Shellac is a nice option because you can add a little more in those spots, sand back, repeat, etc., as the subsequent shellac applications meld with the previous. If you use de-waxed shellac, you can top coat with just about anything your want to later. Do be careful not to sand too aggressively as the oil finish you have already applied is not very thick and you WILL notice if you go through it. DAMHIKT!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    213
    Thanks Jim. I'll give this a go later today and see how things develop. I really would like to save this piece as it has nice grain and as I said above it is my first real hollow form.

    Michael

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