[OP]
Member
I was wondering if anyone could recommend a reasonably priced blade for a 12" scms.The blade that came with my saw has alot of tear out on softwood.I dont use mine very often so i dont want to invest alot of money in one say $50 or less.
thanks,
Chris
Member
I put a 12 Freud miter saw blade on mine and I really like the cut. I don't remember what number it was, but it wasn't a wallet buster!
It's a biiiig mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize that you are in a hurry.
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Jim
Member
My only question on the 12" Freud blades for SCMS's is that I believe they're thin kerf and I wonder about deflection. Not saying it's a problem, but the question comes to mind.
Contributor
Check and see if the local Lowes still has the Hitachi 60 tooth, 12" for $32.97. I have been very happy with mine.
Member
Joe... I did a through search about 6 months ago and all 12" (and 10") SCMS miter blades are Thin Kerf except one I found from an industrial line. With the smaller motor than a TS it appears that most manufacturers go with thin kerf to give the motor more "ummmph". And as a lot of trim pieces are done by trim carpenters.. it also eliminates some waste.
The reason I "thought" I needed a full kerf is I was getting a thin gap on miter cuts stood straight up against the fence. The Freud (excellent SCMS blade) would cut perfect and smooth on 90* degree cuts.. but it was leaving that slight gap and I "Assumed" it was deflection not knowing better.
I did some checking around with 4 different southern trim carpenters I know and mentioned the deflection to them. And they all told me the same thing... It ain't your blade as two of them had Freud's mounted. The stock is "Walking the Fence". Which means that on an angle cut the teeth come in at a more agressive angle and will cause the stock to slip on the fence if held normally like you would on a 90* degree cut.
Their suggestion was to grip very firmly or clamp to avoid that. Slow down the feed on angle cuts and also suggested I put some self adhesive 150 or 180 girt sand-paper on the fence to help hold it in place. And I did just that.
That same Freud that I thought was deflecting and causing the gap now cuts them picture perfect with the new approach. So.. unless you are just force feeding stock as if the shop is on fire and you have to get out as soon as you're done.... I doubt you will have a problem with deflection!
BTW.. all my cross-cutting gets done on my 12" SCMS as the TS is strickly set up for pure ripping. NO DEFLECTION in up to 12/4 Oak...
Regards...
Sarge..
Member
Amazon has the 90 tooth ATB Hitachi blade for $41.87.
Brian at holbren dot com can maybe help guide you to a good blade as well.
Member
The best bang for the buck has got to be the German made Leitz/Delta Industrial clearanced from Mike Jackson. His inventory is dwindling but he still has these, and it's a very good match for a SCMS:
Delta 12" 35-654 80 tooth, ATB ,1" bore, neg 6 degree hook,.125 kerf, $25
Last edited by scott spencer; 03-21-2008 at 9:34 AM.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
Moderator
I used a number of different blades on my CMS with differing cut quality...until I put the Forrest ChopMaster on it. I actually use the saw now. Yes, it was a bit of an investment over the previous blades, but I have no feeling of need to replace it now. Considering how much I spent on 3+ blades before arriving at the Forrest, it would have been a bargain to just buy it the first time...
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
amazon has a very good price on a 12" 30 tooth blade would it work well on a scms?
would the chopmaster be appreciably better?
Walt
Member
The 12" 30T WWII is a great price at < $40, but it has a 20° hook angle which isn't recommended for a SCMS or RAS. It'd still work but you'd have to be more careful. It's best for a TS, and would work on a CMS, though the hook is on the steep side for that application as well.Originally Posted by walter stellwagen
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
Member
I never realized that -- it does explain why a lot of my cuts are just a little bit off.I did a through search about 6 months ago and all 12" (and 10") SCMS miter blades are Thin Kerf except one I found from an industrial line. With the smaller motor than a TS it appears that most manufacturers go with thin kerf to give the motor more "ummmph". And as a lot of trim pieces are done by trim carpenters.. it also eliminates some waste.
Member
It changed my veiw of of cutting angles on a SCMS, Mike. You know.. kind of like one of those "out of body" experiences" or a voice coming from behind a burning bush.I never realized that -- it does explain why a lot of my cuts are just a little bit off.
Frankly.. I don't need an expensive miter gauge with the cuts I'm getting after understanding what makes good miters tick, IMO.
Regards...
Sarge..
Member
Has anyone tried the Dewalt 2 pack I've seen in the large home stores? Seels for $60 or something. It includes an 80 tooth and a 32 tooth.
Curious if they are decent...
What about the 12 inch Diablo blades or the 96 tooth Ridgid variant?
Last edited by Steve Kolbe; 03-22-2008 at 1:20 AM.
Contributor
The DeWalts are great if you are building a deck. The 96 tooth Diablo is a decent blade for the money.
[OP]
Member
Thanks for all of your suggestions.I will look into these and make my purchase.I guess i should've mentioned the reason I don't use this saw very much is because I have a 10" cms that is my work horse and use this for wider boards.I guess only a tool junkie would have this problem.
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