Squaring lumber: Planes to buy when you already own a power planer

[Augusto Orosco]

Which planes would you buy if you wanted to square lumber and have a power planer but no power jointer? (I am not thinking about squaring hundreds of board feet at at time and am in no rush for completing projects; just want to have a relaxing time at the shop)

I was drooling over my LV catalogue and thinking maybe a #4 smooth plane and bevel up jointer, but again, I’ve never done this before; so I’d rather get some good advice from here .

I am planning on placing an order with LV this week for sharpening equipment (stones and the MKII guide) and a low angle block plane, so my preference would be to get the planes for squaring lumber from LV as well.

Thanks!

[Steve Hamlin]

Hi Cesar
I use a #6 as a try plane to get edges square, and #7 as a jointer (both Clifton, as in my part of the world they're cheaper, and of course lower carbon footprint.)

But how about one of LV's jointers with the fence? That way, you can keep a straight(-ish) blade (easier if going bevel up anyway), and also use it for removing the planer ripple, and taking the stock out of wind before planing (though a second, cambered blade might be a good idea for this - just saves some sweat.)

I used a #7 as my only bench plane for a long time, and it's where I'd start again, though I don't use power for very much except the CD. (Believe Alan Peters did most of his work with a #7)

Cheers
Steve

[Mark Stutz]

Cesar,
This is something that I do when I have a board too wide for my 6" jointer, and even sometimes on those less than 6" since I usually end up with thicker boards. Remember, you don't have to achieve a completely flat side, just one that is flat enough at several points so that it doesn't "rock in the planer.

If you are starting with rough sawn stock, a scrub is a must, IMO. Takes those high off very quicly, before going to the jack, and then the jointer. You will need a straight edge ( I use the edge of my #8) and winding sticks. You may be able to get to reasonably flat with just the jack, but the jointer helps.

Don't have any LV planes, so I can't make any specific suggestions.

Be careful, though. You may have so much fun you'll 4 square that board by hand, just because you can!

[Jim Koepke]

Which planes would you buy if you wanted to square lumber and have a power planer but no power jointer? (I am not thinking about squaring hundreds of board feet at at time and am in no rush for completing projects; just want to have a relaxing time at the shop)

I was drooling over my LV catalogue and thinking maybe a #4 smooth plane and bevel up jointer, but again, I’ve never done this before; so I’d rather get some good advice from here .

I am planning on placing an order with LV this week for sharpening equipment (stones and the MKII guide) and a low angle block plane, so my preference would be to get the planes for squaring lumber from LV as well.

Thanks!

What are you going to be doing?

Your choices above sound good. The bevel up joiner would likely be a good plane for shooting board use for squaring end grain.

It is also a good choice for edge joining. You can get different angle bevels on the blade for the different challenges you may encounter when planing boards.

The 4-1/2 is a little wider than the 4 and may be more to your liking if you have a more massive body like me.

If there is a store or showroom where you could go and handle the planes, you could feel which one best suits your hand. Be careful, they all may start purring when you pick them up.

jim

[Steve Hamlin]

If you are starting with rough sawn stock, a scrub is a must, IMO. Takes those high off very quicly, before going to the jack, and then the jointer. You will need a straight edge ( I use the edge of my #8) and winding sticks. You may be able to get to reasonably flat with just the jack, but the jointer helps.

Yep, must say when I got a scrub it was a revelation. At the mo, I go from scrub to fore plane to jointer for faces (hmm, and edges for that matter) but am contemplating slotting a jack with an intermediate camber between scrub and fore.

Oo - and Mark's spot on about going from rough to ready by hand - nothing's so satisfying as seeing the results of good honest hard work lying on the bench.

Cheers
Steve

[Peter Quadarella]

I bought a plane for this same reason. I ended up buying a Jack (#5) plane from Blum Tool co. and love it. I will likely get the Jointer plane (#8) also now that I see how nice it would be to have a longer plane, and I think it would be nice to have a scrub also for initial flattening. So I'd say those 3 would be good choices.

[Augusto Orosco]

Thanks to all for the advice!

Jim, what I plan on doing is small furniture projects to build up my skills. Will start with shop furniture (so I don't feel too bad when they don't turn out too well) and then little things for the house. Building my workbench from 2x4s (using NYW plans) made me realize that wood that is not straight is a pain to work with.

It seems that that a scrub, a jack and a jointer get the most consensus; but I guess the #4 or #4 1/2 is also a good one to have.

I probably can't get them all at once, so I will probably start with the scrub and the jack. My rationale is that I can always get some decent straight edges with a router or with my table saw. Does that make sense?

Next, I will get the jointer and the #4 (or 4 1/2; if after all those hand-planing workouts I develop a massive body just like Jim ); and later, maybe other exchangeable blades, to tackle more subtle aspects of the wood as I learn more.

Those planes really look beautifull... I am afraid that once I have them in my hands and make some shavings, I will start going down the slippery slope and never be heard from again

[David White II]

The LV bevel-up jointer doesn't have square sides for some reason, so probably not suitable for shooting.

[Jim Koepke]

The LV bevel-up jointer doesn't have square sides for some reason, so probably not suitable for shooting.

I did not know that. Almost all of my planes are old, used Stanley's.

My knowledge of other makers planes is only as accurate as my memory of what has been read about them.

This seems like such a natural function of a hand plane it is a point to ponder as to why it was not included.

jim

[Augusto Orosco]

The LV bevel-up jointer doesn't have square sides for some reason, so probably not suitable for shooting.

Hi David,

Forgive me if I am revealing my total ignorance with respect to planes, but doesn't the picture here show a square side on the LV jointer (the side that is not covered by the LV fence looks to be at 90deg. from the sole)? Am I looking at the wrong place, or is the square issue you mention a matter of out of tolerance "squareness"?

[Jim Koepke]

Hi David,

Forgive me if I am revealing my total ignorance with respect to planes, but doesn't the picture here show a square side on the LV jointer (the side that is not covered by the LV fence looks to be at 90deg. from the sole)? Am I looking at the wrong place, or is the square issue you mention a matter of out of tolerance "squareness"?

If one compares the smooth side of the traditional plane compared with the bearing surface of the LV, there is not much for the plane to rest on when using a shooting board.

That said, it does appear the industrious craft person could come up with a way to attach a side sole to the plane to accommodate use with a shooting board.

jim

[David White II]

I had been browsing the catalog and wondered why the sides aren't finished for shooting. Another oddity in their plane line-up is the low-angle smoother vs the bevel-up smoother. The jointer is tapped for a jointer fence, so you could probably rig up something to make it work for shooting.

[Augusto Orosco]

Well, I pulled the trigger on a LV low angle block (unrelated to my question, I just need one); a scrub and a jack; plus sharpening stones and the MKII guide. I also ordered a few other misc. items (like 12" starret combination square and a straightedge).

Hopefully I will be able to get the other planes soon... but I am sure those three will keep me busy for a while learning good technique!

Thanks for all the advice!

[David White II]

From everything I've heard, you should be very pleased with your new toys. Did you go with the LA jack?

[Augusto Orosco]

Did you go with the LA jack?

I did. It was also suggested as good for shooting boards, too; so I thought it would be nice since their jointer has the issues you uncovered.