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Thread: Attaching hardboard to MDF??

  1. #1

    Attaching hardboard to MDF??

    I am building an assembly type table and want to use a piece of 3/8 hardboard on top of MDF. The top will be wrapped in a nice band of oak and right now the hardboard isn't lying flat on the table. There is one main requirement I would like to meet in attaching the hardboard to the MDF. I want to be able to remove/replace the hardboard.

    My thoughts so far is to use hot melt glue at stragetic point along the top to adhere it to the MDF. This would allow it to be popped off later with hopefully minimal damage to the MDF.

    The other way I have thought of is to counter bore and screw it down. This would definately be the easy way out and not while it would work it would also break up the smooth top.

    Any other ideas on how to securly attach the hardboard to the MDF while still being able to remove it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,932
    brads, recommended by norm and what I use.
    Jay St. Peter

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    2,924
    Brads as well.

    I am finishing an outfeed table that is a torsion box. To get around the miter slot problem I attached a second 1/2 MDF top and just used a few brads. When you want or need to lift it up it will pull right up.

    Adhesive caulk would work but you still may get out of flat areas without a smooth spread everywhere.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  4. #4
    Brads also. I've tried a few methods including 2 sided tape, strategic gluing, low adhesive caulk, etc. Some worked better than others, but ultimately the way to go is to just pop in some brads. It makes changing the top so easy.

  5. #5
    One of the most reversible glues there is is hide glue, and I believe it would work for you in this case. The drawback (as would be the case with any glue requiring a solvent, is that in the process of removing the material, you have to wet the surface whether it be with water, alcohol, mineral spirits, etc. That would be my concern with MDF but if you work quickly I don't think it would be a problem. Other types of glues such as PVA can be reversed to some extent for removal purposes by using hot vinegar. Myself I would consider hide glue (even liquid hide glue).

  6. #6
    I like the brads idea. I think I'll try tacking a few in and see what it looks like. Thanks guys!

  7. #7
    I used double sided duct tape and it works great for me.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
    Posts
    3,147
    Double sided carpet tape works well. However, it works best if you put a couple of coats of shellac or varnish on the MDF and let it fully dry for a week or so. That helps the tape adhesive to release later on.

    Around the perimeter, use about 1/2" or 3/4" width of tape. Then put some tape in strategic spots in the center to keep the hardboard flat. If you hardboard isn't flat initially, just set it in and see if it settles. If it's wavy, I would not use it if you need the tabletop to be flat.
    Howie.........

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