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Thread: Locking Miter Bit

  1. #1
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    Locking Miter Bit

    I typically construct drawers with dovetail joints using my Porter Cable jig; but I recently saw a small piece in Woodsmith Magazine which talked about how easy and accurate the Locking Miter bit was and that it makes a very nice joint for most general purpose uses. Does anyone have any experience with this bit? What are your comments on its uses and results?

  2. #2
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    Hi Wes, I don't use a lock mitre joint, I use a drawer lock cutter.

    The drawer lock cutter can make inset, or partial overlay drawer joints, the mitre cutter can only do inset.

    Regards, Rod.

  3. #3
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    I'm not familiar with a "drawer Lock cutter". Where can I see one?

  4. #4
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    MLCS has them, for one

  5. #5
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    Pretty much every maker that sells locking miter bits also sells drawer lock bits.Mine is a freud. A similar joint can be made entirely with a table saw.

    I made a set of 3" tall pull out shelves for a canning closet from white oak using the drawer lock bit. The drawers ride on accuride over travel slides and hold a considerable quantity of canned and jared goods.

    My completely unscientific strength tests prove this to be a strong glue joint with some mechanical strength. My tests involved gluing up samples and then beating the crap out of them with a 5# sledge hammer. In all cases the wood broke near the joint where the wood was the thinest but not at the joint line.

    While neither as strong nor elegant as dovetails, they seem IME more than strong enough for the intended purpose and fairly quick to make. Not too bad to look at either.

  6. #6
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    Louisville,KY
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    Thumbs up Been there...

    Wes - I just completed about 15 drawers for a kitchen using a Lock miter.


    Couple of things:
    1. If you have a set up block, it helps a LOT, if not, you will need to make one.
    2. use feather boards on both the "vertical" and "horizontal" cuts.
    3. If using plywood, I would suggest scribing the cut line with a razor first. This makes a very clean cut.
    4. Use a miter sled or jig with a piece of scrap to prevent blowout.

    Once you get set up, it is very fast. and the boxes go together very nicely. Note that if you are using ply, you don't want to do many dry fits, as it will break down the joint.

    a nice bonus is that they are very square without fiddling.
    Good luck!
    Larry

  7. #7
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    I normally use a draw lock bit and it is really fast, I like it allot. Dove tales look better I think but also more work. For basic draws a draw lock bit and a pin nailed to hold it together when gluing is perfect and fast. I do agreed with #4 above a miter sled with a end block helps and is almost necessary.

    Funny thing woodworking magazine (I think) did a article last month or the month before on joints and found the dove tail was not nearly as strong as the draw lock. I supect this will change if the glue starts to fail over time though. That is why I like to use a couple of pin nails and since the joint locks together it will never come apart.
    -=Jason=-

  8. #8
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    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Terry View Post
    I'm not familiar with a "drawer Lock cutter". Where can I see one?
    Here are some choices from Holbren:

    http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=16
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  9. #9
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    Collin County Texas
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    Hi Wes.

    I have used the lock miter corners on a bin I built just to see how it worked. I used the instructions at routerbits.com. They were very helpful.

    Good Luck....
    Best Regards, Ken

  10. I have Whiteside's bigger lock miter. It's a great way to join corners. I'd suggest not getting the larger cutter 'cause it takes a fair bit of force to use it cutting all that material in one pass.

  11. #11
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    I've found the lock miter bit a real big pain to set up. I guess I just don't "get it" but I'll check out the instructions Ken posted. I just have a real hard time with this stupid bit.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  12. #12
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    Thanks everyone, you've been very helpful.

  13. #13
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    In addition to being tedious to set up, the lock miter bit requires that both pieces of stock be milled to exactly the same thickness. It is best to plane all the material at the same time.

  14. #14
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    Feb 2007
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    Whitney Point, NY
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    Hi Wes,

    You can make a lot of drawers quickly in plywood with a lock miter cutter. But I'm sure the same is true with the drawer lock.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=68368

  15. #15
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    http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/c...gluejoints.gif

    Every router bit manufacturer makes one.

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