Technique: Avoiding Creeps (Pocket screw creeps, that is!)

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Todd
Thanks for the demo.I appreciate that you took the time to develop the series of photos and dialog.
I sometimes us a clamp on the joint.
Daniel

[Steve Clardy]

Looked over one like your new one at Griz in Springfield few months back. Didn't realize it didn't drill the hole too.
I'm still running the little pc550. Think I am on the third router motor. This little guy has done tons of pocket holes. I do not use the drilling guide for the holes as I drill mine by hand at an angle to make getting the screws in easier. In the pics I slightly countersink the hole, drilling at a slight angle. This gets rid of the screw debris.
Also on the clamping to get things flush, I just use my workbench and a c-clamp. Everything usually comes out flush 99 % of the time. My top on bench overhangs the structure underneath about 3 inches, giving me a place to clamp stuff down.
I have though about upgrading to the bigger PC machine, but it's $700.00 now and it also still drills the pilot hole straight into the material.
Steve

[Todd Burch]

Steve, good idea on clamping off the tabletop edge. Mine doesn't extend that far. Looks like that will be one of my design requirements for the next assembly table! Thanks!

[Steve Clardy]

Steve, good idea on clamping off the tabletop edge. Mine doesn't extend that far. Looks like that will be one of my design requirements for the next assembly table! Thanks!

Actually that overhang was a design flaw!! lol
I first built this table for the wife to have a place to lay out sewing stuff and cutting fabric and all that. When I built the original framework I got the dimensions off. Discovered that after I layed a sheet of 1/2" 4x8 chip board on it for a top. Then the table progressed to the shop as I need a bench in a hurry when I bought the new place with this huge shop. So I used the original bench as was but added a sheet of 3/4 AC ply to the top, just layed it on the present 1/2" and attached one screw on each corner. Turned out the overhang has been very valueable in clamping stuff. My sometime in the future new bench will have this overhang also. Steve

[eric hann]

Dave, pretty interesting that you drill thru the ends to stop the shift.
I just went out to Kreg to verify and they say to stop 1/8 inch short of poking thru.
I have the entire Kreg (manual stuff only) line. Right down to a drawer slide jig. The plate is built flush into a table dedicated just for that.. it was an old table saw stand. I'm in love with the unit but I still experience shift every now and again. See it mainly when I'm working harder woods. It isn't a lot, but just under a 64th is still not what I would call flush.
Eric

[Jerry Todd]

Hey Todd,
Great post and the pictures are the best. The Kreg UBKXXX Universal Bench Klamp solved the problem you describe.
Jerry

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Todd,

Great post. If you use the Kreg system to assemble cases the right angle clamps (RAC)are great. I have found it helps to put an etra hole at each end for the clamp.

[jack duren]

im not sure on the kreg machine but ritter who uses a drill tub similiar doesnt recommend a pilot all the way through the rail. im a assuming kreg does?

as far as shimming.. you can shim and use a hammer to get the same results. careful on the holding and screw driving. i know two guys who ran the drill through there hands. no major damage but hurts like ..... there tell me for a couple weeks.....jack

[Steve Roxberg]

Steve, good idea on clamping off the tabletop edge. Mine doesn't extend that far. Looks like that will be one of my design requirements for the next assembly table! Thanks!

The way to use the vise grip clamp is to as you say defy gravity. But you do it with a piece of plywood, say 2' by 4'. On this you attache a series about 12" apart of 2 by 4's running accross the plywood. This provides support, and air above and below the part being screwed together.

The one you ordered will also work very nicely.

[Brian Buckley]

Thanks Todd, I have the same Kreg system and have had the same problem. I look forward to trying your method.

Brian

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Todd, Thanks for the write up. I have noticed the same problems, during my limited usage of the system. Your techniques should help out!

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I would like to nominate this post for the Articles forum. I think that it would be a great reference to have there!

Anyone second it?

[Bartee Lamar]

I love my Kreg and pocket hole screws.

I do not put anything together that is not clamped completely.

For face frames I use these All-In-One ™ Twin Edge Clamp From Peachtree Woodworking. I have two of them that clamp to the workbench top and then I clamp the frame. I also use a clamp to hold the joint down. It sounds like a lot of work but once you get going it is very quick and the joints come out perfect.

Also the adjustment of how deep the pocket hole is very critical. You do not want to drill thru, but be as close as you can.

I general I have found the more I clamp the better my joints, but then that is true of a lot of wood working.

[Lars Thomas]

I second Jeff's motion.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Well now I read that Ken said that the Articles forum is not meant to have threads moved to it. So I guess it will not be moved.

Maybe if Todd get's ambitious he will write an Article (Same basic post I would think)