Finish the MDF topped assembly table

[Barry Clodfelter]

I posted and asked what was the best method to attach a hardboard top to MDF for my assembly table. Brads was the method I felt best about and used.

The table is 4x8 with laminated plywood legs and rails with 2 3/4" MDF sheets and a hard board top wrapped with red oak.

The top turned out to be 1/8" out of level just on one end with the rest almost dead flat. The end that is a little lower sits across an expansion joint in the concret floor so I'm hoping that maybe thats the reason.

Here are a few pics of how it turned out.

[Steven Shelby]

Very Nice, Barry!

I did something similar last year in my garage/shop. But attached it to the wall and hinged it to fold up on the rare occasion when we actually want to park a car in there.

I just did MDF with a couple coats of Poly, and am regretting it. Is the hardboard on your table replacable? If I was to do one thing differently, that would be it.

Again, great job!

[Greg Hines, MD]

That is a nice sized assembly table. My only criticism would be that you might want to put casters on it at some point to be able to move it around.

If not, then I would definitely shim the low spot to keep the whole thing level.

Doc

[Greg Cole]

Nice. I've been needing a dedicated assembly table for a bit as well... the oxy moron of needing a perfectly flat spot to build flat-true things on holds true & I was sick of using my TS as a known flat spot.
I bought a 1/2 sheet of phenolic 1" ply and was intending it as a router table top, but those intentions have yet to see action.....
I've never seen as many laminated layers as in that 1" BB ply with the phenolic on it... 23 layers I think I counted.
If you haven't used phenolic ply for jigs, TS extension tables etc it's worth a look and worth the $ IMO. It's ultra slick, flat, VERY good quality ply, glue will not stick to it, water resistant... and not much more $ that regular BB ply. Not sure if you can get it thinner than 3/4 though?

Greg

[john bateman]

The irony of using these flat reference surfaces to build on is that the final product ends up being placed on an uneven floor in some house that's barely level.

[Howard Acheson]

Use a nail set and drive the brad heads are below the level of the top surface. If you don't, you can expect them to creep up and scratch things you put on the table. Unlike wood, MDF does not compress and grip the shaft of a nail and the nail can "work" itself up.