The best way to MEASURE

[Richard Spain]

I find it interesting that no one has mentioned using a folding wooden ruler. I used it while doing electrical work years ago and I still use it today while wood working. I find it helpful creating a story pole with the metal slider and marking the lumber with two flat surfaces. The metal slider works great for inside measurements as well. Of course the biggest drawback is the limit in length.

[Michael Wildt]

What can I say 'metric rules'. I grew up with the metric system, so I may be biased, he he.

Google is your friend. Here is a place for tape measures, no experience with this place though:

http://www.right-tool.com/starhigqualm.html (starret) You can also find them on the starrett web page but there is no prices.

Instead of a tape measure, "folding wood rules", are also used in the metric world.

http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/...sp?GroupID=181
(not a metric example though).

The folding kind can loose the accuracy just like other measuring devices. Funny thing is that it in Danish is called a 'Tommestok' which can be translated as 'inch-stick'. Invented in 1883 no less.

http://www.hultafors.co.uk/default.asp?LanguageID=2
(goto to products->measure and mark->folding rules)


EU Class III

1 m
2 m
across joint

Wooden folding rule

±1,0 mm
±1,4 mm
±0,5 mm

Fibreglass folding rule

±1,0 mm
±1,4 mm
±0,5 mm

Aluminium folding rule

±1,0 mm
±1,4 mm
±0,5 mm

Michael

[Greg Hines, MD]

For large measurements, I use a tape measure. Just one. Then you at least are off by the same amount for each measurement.

For smaller components, I use a 4" combination square, a 6" Incra T-rule, or a 12" combination square.

Doc

[Jay Basen]

I'm a big fan of Incra products including their table saw fence. The advantage that I find is that they offer repeatable results. While the accuracy of the cut with the fence is going to depend on how well you set it up, the cut will be exactly the same as the last time you set it to that measurement.

The one thing I have found with their fences is that the directions for zeroing the fence don't work that well. What I have found works better is to set the fence for, i.e. 2". Then run a piece of wood through the fence and check it with a micrometer. Make adjustments and cut another piece of wood. Once you have it dead on, zero out the micro adjustment and set the tape to exactly 2". Once I adopted this methodology, the accuracy of the cuts using this fence improved quite a bit.

I also use one of their rulers. The slots with a sharp pencil also give you very repeatable results.

Jay

[John Browne]

Great tips here. For me it's a .7mm mechanical pencil for marking...but mostly I mark on my Fast Cap flat-back story stick. Then I take that mark and move it to another piece. Also stop blocks on any cross cut. And when ripping, I set the fence then rip all the identical pieces before unlocking the table saw fence. The traditional rulers like tape measures I only use for figuring out how big stuff is.

[josh bjork]

If you need consistent cuts, you can just use a long, skinny stick with a short block nailed to it for a stop. Use that to space your fence from the edge and it will be a lot closer than "measuring" will. Of course, if you can just rough things out and run them through the planer, that would work fine also.

[glenn bradley]

Thank you very much for all the replies! Lot of good info, please keep it coming!

All good info here. I tried marking knives and do still use them for marking out stuff I do by hand. Pencils work better for me in general, your mileage may vary.

A wise move for me was to get a couple right-to-left tape measures for rough dimensioning (one by the bench and one by the TS/RT combo) and a set of rules for fine work. I picked up a matched set of 6", 12", 18" and 24" metal rules. The 24" was off a bit but it was exchanged, no problem and now they all match and they match the tapes (as long as I keep the hook tuned). Add a pair of Garrett Wade ruler stops and this covers most of my measuring.

I have other stuff around but here are the items I trust and use regularly in addition to the tapes and the rules:

Calipers
Veritas saddle squares
Machinist's square
Combination square
Setup blocks
Story sticks
Framer's squares (one tuned for inside edge, one for outside edge)

-- and not for woodworking directly but, for the tools --

Straight edge
Feeler gauges
Digital angle gauge
Digital planer depth gauge
Digital blade/bit depth gauge

To avoid problems, I have established some habits. I never assume a factory edge is straight. I never assume anything is 'still' straight or flat if I didn't just machine it; I double check. Measure twice, cut once; an oldie but a goodie. I mark my pieces (chalk, pencil, whatever) with numbers, orientation triangles and so forth. I jot notes as I move along to remind me of things I want to do and the order I want to do them (that way when I come back tomorrow, I remember to cut the tenons before putting the curve on the long edge).

Have fun.

[Matthew Hills]

I seem to remember Tolpin has a good book on this sort of thing.

Some of the lessons I'm learning:
- square stock
- be careful in using a consistent reference surface/edge
- don't use a numerical measurement if you can avoid it (many times, part-to-part matching is more important than hitting an exact value). Things like story-sticks are more useful here.
- use up your scrap to fine tune your equipment setups
- use jigs to help make the measurements for you (ie, the dado guides for a router w/ trim bit, etc.)

and...
- buy extra wood

Matt

[Chris Parks]

Incra rules, Wixey instruments, digital calipers, story sticks and top quality steel rules. Digital means repeatability every time and I wish we could move more towards it and the Wixey has opened my eyes, no more test cuts as long as you have measured it correctly. I can't emphasis enough the ability to cut to the same repeatable measurement is a real time saver.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Cheap (~ $7.00 on sale) Harbor Freight digital caliper.
Best under $10. item I bought all last year.
Makes setup a breeze.
Combined with a story board, stop block or setup block, of known dimensions, it allows me to "dial in" the final inch or few inches with an amazing degree of accuracy.

[Greg Hines, MD]

One thing that I haven't seen on the list are the Veritas, Lee Valley, or Woodcraft set-up bars. I use my Woodcraft bars all the time for the router table, or the table saw, as well as setting up routers for hand held use. For $10 to $20, I find these to be very handy.

One thing, Woodcraft has a 4" set, for a few extra dollars. I find the longer set much handier than the shorter ones, though I have two sets of them.

Doc

[Vince Shriver]

David, your explanation of two sticks with a common line across the two of them is way simple. I've always marked a line somewhere in the middle of the rail and measured from the stile to the mark and added the two lenghts together. I come out close most of the time. You take the math out of the deal and come out dead accurate. I guess I'm just too smart to have come up with such a simple idea - thanks for sharing that. Excellent.

[Curt Harms]

Sort of along the lines of two sticks marked or clamped together
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...85&cat=1,43513
pretty handy for checking diagonals.

[Mark Singer]

Sticks. Two of em' each a bit shorter than your "net" measurement. For example, say you need to cut a rail between two stiles. So you butt one stick against each stile and mark across the sticks. Then place the sticks together with the lines matched up and you have a "gauge" for setting whatever saw you are using. A small spring clamp will hold them together if you need. No numbers required. Just look down there on the floor next to your table saw to find the sticks. Many shops (mine included) lay out entire projects on sticks and then cut and fit without ever touching any other measuring device. This eliminates any variation that might exist between your tape, your ruler, your saw fence scale or whatever.

Disclaimer: This is not something I thought of myself!

DD

This is the same Japanese technique I use. Lee Valley bar gauge heads are a step up!