Ok so now what?

[John Maeda]

I think i might have made a small boo-boo sanding my first project.





Now what do I do? I suppose there isn't a way to fix this without paint is there?

[Dustin Thompson]

Been there, done that.

Looks like it may have become a paint grade project-either that or just finish it as a humbling reminder of some of your "earlier" work.

Feelin' the sting,

Dustin

[John Maeda]

I think the joinery alone is a humbling enough reminder for me.

Well, I'm starting to slowly gain a distaste for wood grain, and really am aquiring a taste for white paint.

[John Maeda]

So since this thing is going to get painted, whats the best way to seal the wood before I hit it with the spray primer?

This thing's going to see a LOT of water. How can I best protect it? Think boating...

[Sam Yerardi]

So since this thing is going to get painted, whats the best way to seal the wood before I hit it with the spray primer?

This thing's going to see a LOT of water. How can I best protect it? Think boating...

Shellac works well as a sealer with most interior finishes but for exterior use you probably want to use an exterior-grade sealer prior to the primer. Zinsser makes several products that are designed for exterior use in your type of application (Bulls Eye 123, GARDZ High Performance Sealer, Peel Stop).

If the surface of the top is uneven because of the sanding, and you are going to paint this surface, you might seriously consider Bondo or an automotive-type body filler since it will be covered with paint. If you do take that approach, you might want to skim a very thin coat across the entire surface, but scrape off the bondo on the good remaining wood surface. This will help act as a filler, to help match the surrounding wood surface that the Bondo is going to give you. Sand, seal, prime, then paint.

For exterior paint that will be used in a very wet environment, I would consider marine paint (boats, etc.). Check out this site:
http://www.ipaint.us/blwamatopa.html...FRciFQodBSHiGQ

[Jim Becker]

You can either veneer the top, paint it or make another top that sits on top of the top, as it were...

[Sam Yerardi]

If it is going to see a lot of water I would be a bit hesitant to use veneer on it but you might not have a problem.

[Jim Becker]

If it is going to see a lot of water I would be a bit hesitant to use veneer on it but you might not have a problem.

Why would this be different than plywood given it's made with a veneer face? It's not the material, it's making the finish appropriate for the use.

[Steve Schoene]

I think I agree with Sam about being reluctant to suggest veneer which expands a relatively simple project into something quite a bit more challenging. And would throw open the whole problem of the durability, or lack their of, of clear finishes.

A good paint job would be easiest and most likely to have a successful outcome. I would start with a good filler material to be sure there are no dents dings or gaps between surfaces. Bondo, or other marine fillers would work fine.

After you have filled any dings and the like, I proceed with a good marine grade primer such as Hi-Build by Pettitt, or Pre-Kote Brightside Primer by Interlux. These are formulated for good adherance, and to sand well. Sand them smooth, using a good sive sanding block, to eliminate the appearance of wood grain. If the plywood I see is a fir plywood you will almost certainly take two or three coats of primer to achieve this, since the first paint coat will be absorbed differently by early and late wood. I would not use a ROS for this, it's too aggressive and hard to get a really level surface.

Then I would shift to the corresponding marine enamel. Brightside by Interlux is quite good, and so is Easypoxy by Petitt. Over a well primed surface two coats will probably do it, depending on the color. Sand between each coat with 320 grit sand paper.

You won't find these at very many paint stores and at no big box stores. If you are in an area with good boating supply stores that's the place to go. On line, www.defender.com is a good low cost source.

[Alfred Cole]

Don't go with veneer in this project. Any veneer you put over the original ply would have to run at right angles to the grain direction. If you put the two grains in the same direction then there is a very strong likelihood of the veneer splitting. Think about it. The two woods would be expanding and contracting at different rates. If you must veneer then it would need two layers the first layer at right angles and the second matching the original grain direction. would make the job more difficult and add to cost. Go with a good marine paint as advised.

Jerry

[Jesse Cloud]

Is the top attached to the legs yet? If so could it be undone and flip it over so the top becomes the bottom?

[Von Bickley]

John,

Some decortive tiles would make a beautiful table top.

[John Maeda]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

Surprisingly i'm going to choose to leave it, and finish with some spar varnish.

I found that the tank i'm building needs a mat to be placed underneath it and the mat + tank will cover all the flawed areas. o.O

I lucked out on this one.

[John Maeda]

Changed my mind again.

After spending a couple days with sand paper and bondo i've arrived at this. Not bad, but not perfect.

[John Maeda]

After changing my mind AGAIN, and a few more tool purchases this is what I ended up with.