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Thread: Titebond III ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
    Posts
    830

    Titebond III ?

    Anyone using it? Pros? Cons?

    I'm a big fan of Titebond II but haven't tried Titebond III yet, and may not even try it, being that I've been so pleased with the performance of Titebond II.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Near Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    1,056
    I use Titebond III. It's supposed to have a slightly longer open time, a little more water resistance, and useable in slightly colder temperatures. If you're not having a problem with II on these items, there's probably no reason to change.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,901
    Titebond III is what I use primarily these days. I like it a lot including the color which works very well with the cherry I tend to build with.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
    Posts
    695

    Outdoor use

    I have used titebond III on several outdoor projects made out of northern white cedar. After being outside 24/7 (in Vermont) for 5 years, the joints are still as tight as the day I took the clamps off. That being said, there is a definite color difference between titebond II & III. I've heard many people say this was a problem for them.


  5. #5
    I have used it to make mug's out of wood. Specifically I made one with Sycamore. You check out the pictures on my webpage (www.demechman.com) under the gallery link under the album labeled Mugs. I coated the mug with epoxy, however during turning and hollowing I saw zero cracks, it was solid stuff.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
    Posts
    7,149
    I use titebond III almost exclusively at this point, unless a glue up requires a lot of glue and absolutely no moisture resistance, which for me is rare. I like the color when dried, it seems to creep less over time, and the open time is a bit better.

    Type III has to meet the Type 1 water resistance. I read the test for that recently. I think they boil the fully cured joint for 4 hours, bake it in a 300 degree oven till dry again, then boil it again, then stress test the joint? Maybe somebody knows the exact regimine, but it was extreme.

    I never boil and bake my projects, nice to know I could!

  7. #7
    Lately I've been using Titebond II Extend without problems. It promises 15 mins of open time, and I probably get close to that, definitely more than 10 mins. The extra open time makes glue ups a lot calmer. I can't glue two square blocks of wood together in less than 5 mins .

    David

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    2,831
    I used to use the II but decided there was no real benefit for what I make to justify paying more. Now I just use the regular old TB I and haven't ever had any glue related problems.
    If your building things that need to be weather resistant than I suppose it could be beneficial.
    JeffD

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian W Evans View Post
    I have used titebond III on several outdoor projects made out of northern white cedar. After being outside 24/7 (in Vermont) for 5 years, the joints are still as tight as the day I took the clamps off. That being said, there is a definite color difference between titebond II & III. I've heard many people say this was a problem for them.
    Has TB III been out for 5 years?
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  10. #10
    There was a recent post here about Titebond III and it's tendency to creep. I've used it alot and have noticed a slight ridge on my glued up table tops that wasn't there before. Maybe it was wood movement, maybe the glue, not sure.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne IN
    Posts
    1,210

    Mostly what I use

    I use this alot and have not had any problems. I also use the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. It takes about an hour to set so this is really great if you need alot of time for positioning.

  12. #12
    Last time I was buying it, I chose TBIII due to the colder temps in which it would work. I work in my garage in the winter, where it gets very cold.

    My stuff usually doesn't end up outdoors, so the moisture resistance was no real benefit to me.

    I have found that TBIII doesn't want to come out of clothes once dried. I think TBI would be much better in this regard. Can someone confirm?

    I'll probably buy TBI or TBII Extend next time, and poly for the outdoor stuff.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Zorns View Post
    I have found that TBIII doesn't want to come out of clothes once dried. I think TBI would be much better in this regard. Can someone confirm?
    Yep. For some reason, I tend to wipe excess glue off my fingers and onto my jeans. TBI always came out in the wash. I was using TBIII one day and didn't even think about it... but many months later, the glue spots are still in/on my jeans and they've been washed dozens upon dozens of times.

    Since then, I've tried real hard to use shop towels instead of my jeans.

    Paul
    Paul Fitzgerald
    Mid-South Woodworker


  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tenn.
    Posts
    1,133
    I use Tightbond III almost exclusively. The waterproof nature of it helps with general woodworking, and at the local borg I found a half dozen bottles for a buck apiece.

    Doc
    As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
    Posts
    830
    FWIW, I've used TBII for outdoor stuff (barn doors, etc.), and have found it to be completely satisfactory for water resistance. Not sure I would use it in an open boat, but I'm also not sure I wouldn't, either!

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