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Thread: New (to me anyway) jointer and I need some help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    North Central Texas - DFW
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    114

    New (to me anyway) jointer and I need some help

    I had been wanting to upgrade my jointer from the 6" machine I currently have. Was thinking about on the 12" combo units. But, I ran across this at a really good deal. I brought this home on Friday. It is an older 12" jointer. Quite a step up from the 6" jointer I had previously.

    First picture is of the jointer loaded on the trailer after the trip home.

    IMG_1419.jpg

    After getting it off the trailer prior to getting it into the shop.

    IMG_1422.jpg

    Waiting to be connected up to power.

    IMG_1429.jpg

    After trying it out.

    IMG_1430.jpg

    View from the back.

    IMG_1436.jpg

    I need to do a jointer tuneup and it needs to have the blades sharpened. At some point, I will re-paint it and do a restore.
    Mike

    "The only real valuable thing is intuition." - <CITE>Albert Einstein</CITE>

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    North Central Texas - DFW
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    114
    One of the things I don't have any experience with is how to set the knifes when they look like this.

    IMG_1431.jpg IMG_1432.jpg

    As you will notice in the pictures, the blades don't go straight across the cutter head. They are at a slight angle. Any suggestions about how to get it the same height across the width of the blade and from blade to blade?
    Mike

    "The only real valuable thing is intuition." - <CITE>Albert Einstein</CITE>

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Montana
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    103
    http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...60322121&hl=en

    Mike

    Check out this link. Same method should apply to the shear angle knives on your jointer.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
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    If you use the "drag the stick" method, it's no different - you still need to set all blades at each end of the blade and check the middle, each blade should drag the stick the same distance at each point along the edge. Then, when you've accomplished that, raise the outfeed table til the stick just barely wiggles when the blade passes under it.

    IF you use a dial indicator (such as the Oneway) you would still check each blade at each end, etc - but you'd need to rotate the cutter head thru an arc and find the highest indication at each end of each blade - they should still be the same, plus or minus a thou or two (less is better) - after all blades protrude the same, again raise/lower the outfeed til the high point on the blade is the same as you get while resting the anvil AND the base of the gauge on the outfeed table - IOW, ZERO.

    Helical cutters should still come up only to the height of the outfeed table, just like straight knives - only difference is WHEN they peak, which is different from one side of the cut to the other... Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    532

    Nice

    Nice aircraft carrier. I love old iron. When I set my jointer knives I use a piece of plate glass and three rare earth magnets. Glass on top of outfeed table with magnets on top of glass above the blade.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    556
    Is that an SCM F3a? Looks very similar to one I'm considering as well.

    nice score

    mike

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    The sandy wastes of Tucson, Sonora Desert, Baja Arizona, USA
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    40
    Wouldn't want to try to move that thing down a flight of stairs...

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by George Sanders View Post
    Nice aircraft carrier. I love old iron. When I set my jointer knives I use a piece of plate glass and three rare earth magnets. Glass on top of outfeed table with magnets on top of glass above the blade.

    This is the best idea I think that I have ever heard. I'm going to use it tonight.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Gauger View Post
    This is the best idea I think that I have ever heard. I'm going to use it tonight.
    I'll second that!!! Why have we never heard of this before?

  10. Quote Originally Posted by Mike Forsman View Post
    They are at a slight angle. Any suggestions about how to get it the same height across the width of the blade and from blade to blade?

    Same as always. Height is height no matter what skew the cutterblock is are set to. Use a indicator in a movable stand or go old school and use a drag block.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
    Posts
    830
    My Dad bought a big old 12" or 18" jointer back in the '70s that he put in the garage, it never got set up. It was a beast, and ended up being given away (and then sold) for scrap. IIRC, I think Dad said it was originally used in a box plant or printing place for squaring the ends of rolls of paper or some absurd thing...yet he struggled along with his 4" Delta jointer all his life!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati Ohio
    Posts
    4,734
    Have to ask. How much did you give?

  13. #13
    Fascinating. First, I'll bet you'll get beautiful cuts. Second, I'm surprised cause that is the first shear-cut jointer in old iron I've seen (although I'm no expert in old iron). Third, when I first saw it I figured those were Tersa (sp?) knives with a Tersa head, but I have never actually seen a Tersa and I imagine that jointer is too old.

    That is one near jointer!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    North Central Texas - DFW
    Posts
    114
    Dan,

    Thanks for the link. This was the general procedure that I had been following. I had read about this approach on line and used it for my 6" delta. It worked well for me. The movie really makes things easier to understand. I just wasn't sure if there was an easier way with the shear angle knifes. I had never run across that before so thought I would get the experience of others.

    Steve,

    I had assumed that the knives would be set to the height of the out feed table. I didn't know if someone else knew of a better way to set the knifes than I could think of.

    Mike,

    No, it is not a SCM F3a (but it does kind of look like one). The jointer has a label on it that indicates it was made by "Shen Feng Wood Working Machine CO. LTD. Taiwan". I went and looked at it before I put a bid on it. I was a little concerned about it being from Taiwan, but the tables were in very good shape and flat. The motor is a Baldor and single phase so it was easier to get running in my shop. I thought that I wouldn't have much lost if I could get it for a good price (which I believe I did).

    Dylan,

    I wouldn't want to try and move it up or down any stairs. It was difficult enough getting it over the 1" lip leading into the shop.

    Dave,

    I think I got a good deal I picked it up for $610.00. Plus the rental of the trailer and engine hoist $100.00. Labor was cheap (teenage boys). Made my youngest help me on his 18th birthday. He wasn't really happy about that, but that is the way it goes.

    Phil,

    I will let you know how well it cuts when I get the knives sharpened and setup right. I also need to build a better guard. The one that came on it was most likely not the original and needs to be better as far as I'm concerned.

    Everyone else, Thanks for you input and help. It is really nice to be able to get other inputs and thoughts.

    Mike
    Mike

    "The only real valuable thing is intuition." - <CITE>Albert Einstein</CITE>

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