Byrd Cutters (DJ20)

[Vince Shriver]

How involved is it to change the stock cutter knives to the Byrd cutters on the Delta DJ 20 jointer? Any special tools required? Thanks. Vince

[Craig Thompson]

Vince,

Only took me about 30 minutes.... no sweat.... no special tools

[Martin Shupe]

I did this, and if I can do it, you can do it.

I replaced the bearings, and I think the hardest part was getting the old bearings off. I don't own a bearing puller, so I ended up using a piece of wood and a hammer.

The upgrade is really nice, now I just need to upgrade my planer.

[Alan Schaffter]

To be sure you understand, you are not changing the stock cutter "knives" in your existing journal, you are installing a completely new journal. Regardless, it is easy to do on a DJ-20 (and most jointers.)

Since the price of bearings is reasonable, I recommend you install new bearings when you install a Byrd Shelix journal.

However, if you decide to swap the bearings, you should use a bearing puller. But, you don't need to buy one!! Almost all chain autoparts stores (Auto Zone, NAPA, Parts Plus, etc.) have a free tool loaner policy. They swipe your credit card when you get it and credit your account when you bring it back. Don't take a chance ruining the bearings.

[Dave MacArthur]

Where are you buying the Byrd cutters from, and how much? I have a DJ20 and this sounds like a decent project...

[Alan Schaffter]

I got mine from Holbren. Contact Brian at Holbren sales and mention Woodnet Discount (info on Woodnet discount). Their list is $449 for an 8" Delta head, but I believe the discount is 10%.

["Gary Brewer"]

Where would you recommend getting the bearings for the DJ20 cutter head?
Thanks,
Gary

[Alan Schaffter]

Any autoparts store or machinery supply.

[Dave Jackson]

It was pretty easy. If you've got the puller for the bearing on hand it should only take about an hour.
1. go to the back of the jointer and unscrew the adjustment stop screws pretty much all the way.
2. move both tables down. This will make the opening between tables big enough to get the cutter head in and out. If it's not big enough you need to unscrew the stop screws more.
3.Take the belt and pulley off. Do this while the cutter head is still bolted it. There is a screw holding it on and then you can either pry it off little by little or use a 3 jaw puller. You shouldn't have a problem renting one of these at advance or auto zone.
4. Slide the fence back aways and remove the cutter head guard. Remove the screws on the pillow blocks. Then simply pick up the cutter head. Check to see if there were any shims under the pillow block. I heard some people have found them. Mine had none.
5. You'll need to pry off the pillow blocks from the bearings. Kind of a PITA. IIRC I had to use a rubber mallet to get then off.
6. I heard the delta has both bearings attached to the shaft. On the griz the rear one was fixed in the pillow block with a snap ring. No need to remove. Pull off the front bearing.
7. To improve clearances I put by Byrd in the freezer overnight and the bearing in the oven at 180 for 30 min. It was still pretty had to get the bearing on though. The temp should be able to get to 190. This is how pro's usually install bearings. If done right it should just drop right on. I still had to use a socket and hammer though. Make sure the socket isn't to big and your pressing on the inner race.
8. Put the head back in, replace the pulleys and align the jointer.
I don't know how the shop fox is but my grizzy vibrated pretty good with the stock belt. I put a power twist on and vibes are gone. Great time to do it while you've got the belt off anyway.
I had a hard time finding a puller that could fit behind the bearing properly. I ended up getting a pulley puller at NAPA for $22. In contrast new bearing are only about $18 a piece but from Napa are special order.

Here's what I ended up doing a little differently.
First, save the wood blocks from the little crate the cutterhead is packaged in, they come in handy to hold the cutterhead upright on your bench when seating the bearings!
I bought a 3 piece (small medium,large) 3 jaw puller set from HF for cheap. The medium sized one is just right for removing the pulley from the cutterhead. I also just removed the rear pillow block and bearing together as a unit (in lieu of step 5 above) by just putting the puller jaws on the pillow block itself.
The clearance was pretty tight between the cutterhead and front bearing, so I took the small HF puller and ground the "hooks" down to fit in between the two and was able to pull the bearing off. This was the hardest part of the whole install. If you find yourself stuck here, I'd suggest just ordering a new bearing from Napa and installing it on the Byrd. (see the last paragraph in above instructions). To reseat the front bearing on the Byrd I just stood the cutter head upright in one of the packing blocks it came with and tapped it on using a (5/8" IIRC) socket. (you want a socket the same diameter as the inner race.) Then I flipped the cutterhead and installed the rear pillow block/bearing by tapping it on with a block of wood and reinstalled the cutter head. Make sure to wear gloves or keep a rag around the cutterhead whenever you handle it, those small teeth are sharp!
I'd also suggest following step 8 above and getting a link belt if you haven't already. I replaced mine with link some months ago... Good luck, you'll love the new 'head. --dave

[Brian Gumpper]

Where would you recommend getting the bearings for the DJ20 cutter head?
Thanks,
Gary

They are standard size bearings and you should have no problem finding them. Byrd will actually supply them. Last time I did it for a DJ20 the upcharge to the customer was $28 with one pressed on and one you need to press on. I'm pretty sure you can find the bearings for less.