Drywall in shop?

[Jim Andrew]

When I fixed up an old building for a shop, I used drywall for the walls, and a suspended ceiling, with tiles that are treated for fire resistance. My thinking was that I wanted as much fire protection as I have in my house. From the posts I see about shop walls, doesn't look like many have that concern. Also didn't use a wood stove as I figured with all the sawdust I'd probably burn my shop down. Anyone else concerned? And about my dust system, just ran the pipes above the ceiling framing, and cut holes for the drops in the ceiling tiles. When I move things, Just replace that tile with the hole. I put 6" batts above the tiles, that's all the room I left, and the shop heats pretty well. Maybe when I get the AC added, will need more for the ceiling? On the walls, put 1 1/2" styrofoam between the nailers, (Pole shed), then after framing the walls on 16" centers with 2x4's, put fiberglass batts. My thoughts were to start a discussion on drywall vs plywood, osb, etc. Jim

[Joe Chritz]

The fire rating of drywall is primarily to contain the spread of fire. Not an issue with a detached building as much.

The reasons for not using drywall are not fire related but mostly related to nailing things to the walls and extra durability of other materials.

If I get a chance I am going to post a recent climb cutting incident on my shaper. Shot a decent size stile right through the drywall 8 foot away and bounced back several feet. Osb would have most likely stopped it.

You do want to be diligent on cleaning up around a wood stove. As long as basic safety procedures are followed they are safe.

Joe

[Mike Gager]

i think most people shy away from drywall in their shops because of what joe said about not being able to nail directly to it securly and also if you would happen to hit it with a board or something its likely to knock a hole it it where plywood or osb would take the hit. i plan on putting white paint osb in my shop for those reasons and also the cost ($5 a sheet)

[John Keeton]

I have had several shops over the years - most were not shops initially but just happened to be available space. The two shops that were dedicated space from the outset were done in OSB, painted white for brightness (and you can buy cheap white paint!.) When you paint, the cheapest paints are usually ceiling paints and they have a high solids content, but are not as durable. That usually is not an issue in a shop because we don't wash the walls, scrub off crayon marks, etc.

I also have a metal pole barn shop, and like the ability to mount electrical pop in boxes solidly in OSB. They will mount in drywall, but won't take the constant abuse the get in the shop.

[Mike Williams]

Jim - like you, I wanted the same degree of fire spread control in my shop (separate 34 x 40 building) as I had in my house. But I also wanted the convenience of being able to hang things on the wall or ceiling without looking for the studs / trusses.

I installed 1/2" plywood on the walls and ceilings, covered by drywall. Is it overkill - you bet! But I like the convenience of the plywood, and the drywall lets me sleep a little better.

PS - the shop also has heat rise fire detectors hooked up to a monitored system.

Mike

[Andy Tessler]

I'm all ears as I'm hours away from buying drywall or OSB to close up the walls in my 16x20 shop/rage. I've all but convinced myself to do 5/8" sheetrock on the logic of it knocking down the tool noise for the neighbors and being easier to paint with a more 'finished' wall surface from taped joints and no popped chips. The biggest downside I have with drywall is getting it home without a truck. I'd have an easier time with OSB since it's going on a roof rack an won't get chewed up as badly.

Ply's out of the question for me based on cost.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

I've all but convinced myself to do 5/8" sheetrock on the logic of it knocking down the tool noise

2 layers of 1/4" hung at 90* to each other will give more strength and deaden noise better. Plus be a heck of lot easier to hang.
2 layers of 3/8" hung at 90* to each other is even better.
2 layers of 1/2" hung at 90* to each other is best & usually cheapest.

Drywall prices can get goofy. 1/2" often goes on sale and is cheaper than 3/8" or 1/4", and sometimes less than half the price of 5/8".

Since you only have to tape and sand the one layer, it's more work than a single layer, but nowhere near twice the effort.
I usually hang the first layer with adhesive and 18 ga brads just to hold it in place long enough to get the second layer up and screwed on.

Outlets and switch boxes will need replaced and possibly relocated, but fortunatly there are "old work" boxes that make the job easy - IMHO a lot easier than laying out the location of a nailed box - but that's just me.

Another advantage to a double layer is that it's easier to repair than a single layer if/when you punch a hole in it.

The biggest downside I have with drywall is getting it home without a truck

I'm faced with the same problem.
Thankfully, there's a fairly cheap solution.
My Lowes rents a truck for $19.95 for 75 min. which will handle it.
If you combine the drywall purchase with other "hard to haul" items, you can kill a couple of birds with one stone. Just make sure you have a space cleared out to store it once you get it home.
When I'm doing a rehab I stage the drywall and 2/x4's in the garage on sawhorses. To offload it in a hurry, I setup a couple of those portable roller stands - like the cheapies HF sells - and slide it off the back.

[Russ Boyd]

I'm thinking about the double 1/2" myself. Why the 90 degree method? Wouldn't just staggering the joints be just as effective? Russ

[Jim Becker]

Were I doing it again, I'd consider drywall and a cleat system rather than using OSB and T1-11 as I have, although I love the natural color of the T1-11. I also like a more finished look and that combination would provide it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have also pondered 1/2" drywall over 1/2" OSB. Easy to paint, easy to screw into, some inceased fire protection, easy surface repair.

What do you think about that idea?

[Andy Tessler]

Rich, by 90* you're talking one layer horizontal and the next vertical right? Locally I'm looking at just under $7 a sheet for 5/8 4x8' and $5.44 1/2 or $6.44 1/4. Even my public school math tells me going with doubled thinner sheet would nearly double the cost. I'm with you on the acoustic damping part with doubled layers though...

We have the same borg rent-a-truck deals here, used it last fall to get the pallet of cellulose and the blower home. Getting the blower and hose back in a two door Wrangler was another adventure.

My next decision will be what to do about the 48" OC 2x6 rafter joists so the ceiling can be closed in an batted.

[Steve Flavin001]

I'm all ears as I'm hours away from buying drywall or OSB to close up the walls in my 16x20 shop/rage. I've all but convinced myself to do 5/8" sheetrock on the logic of it knocking down the tool noise for the neighbors and being easier to paint with a more 'finished' wall surface from taped joints and no popped chips. The biggest downside I have with drywall is getting it home without a truck. I'd have an easier time with OSB since it's going on a roof rack an won't get chewed up as badly.

Ply's out of the question for me based on cost.

I'm all for what you say about SR but found when I hauled 1st shop home, how hard it was before I owned a truck. In any event 5/8 weight is too much to handle and is really used for fire wall (90 min. rate) only - 1/2" has its drawbacks but in end I have used 1/2" and am REAL happy with it. True I have lots of dings and scrapes but have never put anything through it as some fear and I am a qualified klutz of the 1st order. I have a shear wall of OSB since this is earthquake country but next to SR it is awful stuff to have to use.

[Steve Flavin001]

I wish to leave just a thought - no way no how have an open flame in the shop, including a wood stove,including propane camping heaters. May look fine on today's drawing but with passage of time, more equipment, children, pets, more piles of clutter, etc. the hazzards will escalate out of control.

5/8" SR is intended to contain fire after it has started until F.D. arrives. It is NOT intended to hold down noise - use insulation for that.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

Rich, by 90* you're talking one layer horizontal and the next vertical right?

Andy & Russ,
Correct one layer horizontal and the other vertical. The reason being, like wood, paper has a grain to it.By going 90* to each other, you get the same effect as you do with plywood - putting the paper layers f the drywall @ 90* to each other.
Try some scraps sometime on a mock-up and try to bust through it with a hammer. It takes a lot more effort than a single thicker piece does to bust it.

Edit to add:
Opps. Forgot to mention that that's a good price on the drywall.
Last time I bought drywall, the 1/2" was on sale - other sizes weren't.
I was a little miffed because I already had some 3/8" that was up and needed another 10 sheets to finish.
The 3/8" was more than the 1/2". I don't remember the exact prices, but I do recall the 1/2 was less than 1/2 the price of the 5/8" - granted it was a while ago and I may have been looking at 5/8" in waterproof.

[Jim Nobles]

I have seen shop with OSB on the wall an ceiling. This shop suffered from sawdust stuck on surfaces from uncollected tools. This OSB was stained and varnished, so the surface was not raw. The only thing I would consider is sanded plywood, but the cost is too high.
The latest pricing at HD shows that SH is 25% less than the same size sheets of OSB.
This all means that I'm using SH in my new shop. I plan to put cleats on the walls to hang cabinets, and pegboard panels.