New Grizzly wet grinder or Worksharp 3000

[Jason Sutphin]

Hello everybody, this is my first port; however I have been a silent reader for a very long time.

I am contemplating the purchase of either the new Grizzly (Tormek style) wet grinder or the Worksharp 3000. I can get both for basically the same price delivered. I have a few questions and concerns on both, and both are in a dead tie in my decision. I have searched the web and many forums, but cannot seem to find answedrs for the following. Sorry if I am asking too many questions.

Grizzly:

1. I have noticed that Grizzly is very vague if it comes with a standard chisel jig like the Tormek does. I don't see it as an option in their packages. Anyone know?

2. Has anyone determined where it is made for sure? I know that the one ad clearly states Made in Germany in bold letters, whereas I was reading their owner manual, zoomed in, and it says China. The company that makes them is making models in China now from what I've read. Just curious, but don't really care if it works.

these questions are general about the Grizzly/Jet/Tormek style systems
3. How does this type of sharpening system work with small carving tools such as the Flexcut with stubby handles (fixed blades)? Also how would it work with small spoon gouges, do they (any company) make jigs?

4. How would it work with chip carving knives? It seems that the knife jigs would work great with my Swedish laminated knives, but not sure about small chip carving ones.


Worksharp:

1. How much wobble/movement is there in the glass/slotted plates when pushed from underneath? Is it an issue?

2. The heat sink air cooling seems neat, but is absent when using the bottom free hand side or top of the machine. I am worried I'd ruin some mighty expensive tools in a hurry freehand sharpening gouges with somewhat thinner steel than chisels. I'm also curious if the motor is enclosed. Looking at the diagram, it appears that steel dust (forgot real name) is sucked across the motor.

3. Can you sharpen knives on this machine?

4. How uneven is the sanding pattern on larger (2") chisels and blades due to RPM at different distances across the plate? This would be a particular problem for me with knives - assuming knives can be sharpened on it.

5. Has anyone come up with jigs for the tool rest? Any rests for using under the machine?

6. Just for curiosity, and because some reader of this may care, where is it made?



Regards
J

[Grant Vanbokklen]

What are you doing mostly? And what do you have currently to sharpen tools?

I'm still learning a bit but have been doing quite a bit of study recently. I would suggest the wet grinder type sharpener over the dry flat disc one.

Or you might also consider a slow speed 8" grinder like the one woodcraft sells. And 800 and 6000 grit (8000 better but more expense) waterstones, maybe include a 1200 grit later. If you need a honing jig start out with the cheaper "Eclipse-type" jig.

[Jason Sutphin]

I am currently using a series of hand me down and cheap stones. I think one double sided one is 300 - 600, then a a smoother one (unknown grit probably 2000ish), and a white honing stone and a leather strop. The stones are a bit worse for worn. It's worked, barely, but I have about $200 to play with, and would like to go with a power system. I could buy new stones, guides, etc., but the cost would probably be just as high, and I am not that talented.

I have about 20 nice carving tools (mix of flex cut, Henry Taylor, and Pfiel) and Marples bench chisels along with a mix of old chisels. I like to carve with knives, both Swedish style and chip carving. Everything is well under 2" across, even the few planes I own. I would't mind being able to sharpen kitchen knives too, but that isn't the top priority. Oh, I don't have a lathe, and don't see getting one, so sharpening turning tools isn't a consideration.

The Worksharp appears to be really good for chisels and gouges from underneath - but I have read users want some king of tool rest, and the heat issue I mention in my previous post worries me.

At some point, after getting everything sharp, I'd imagine I will use it for keeping everythign sharp.

The woodcraft one isn't bad looking (the green horizontal one?). It would be about the same price as the others with the extra stones. I'd probably stay with a Tormek style because of availability of jigs if going with stones.

Thanks

[Grant Vanbokklen]

The woodcraft one isn't bad looking (the green horizontal one?).

Jason I was talking about this one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4605

And was suggesting these stones:
the King 800 and 6000 (which is the King deluxe polishing stone). Of if you can swing it the 8000.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=242

David Charlesworth recommends these. I think that Rob Cosman does too, as well as Ian Kirby. It was some stuff that I've seen by Charlesworth, Cosman, and Ian Kirby recently that makes me think the 8" grinder is a good call with the stones for quick sharpening. But all the stuff I've seen is geared toward chisels and plane irons.

I got in on the Jet wet sharpener deal at Amazon about 6 months back for 145.00. Otherwise from what I've learned recently I'd probably get one of those 8" slow speed grinders.

Check the article in recent FWW:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...html&BlogID=48

[Jason Sutphin]

Many thanks Grant, that makes more sense. I went to the Woodcraft website and thought it may have been the other.

It may be a good option, is right there price wise. I'll have to read the article a bit more in depth, but it does still seem unnerving !

Now I have three options. . . hmmm. . . never dull (no pun intended!)!

[Jim C Bradley]

Hi Jason,

I have the WorkSharp 3000. I think it is fantastic. I have the sharpest tools I have ever had. And, it is fast so you don't hesitate to touch up a tool while working---just a few seconds---I haven't timed it but it seems like 10-15 seconds to put back the razor edge on a chisel or plane iron.

I have had NO problem with heat. I dust my machine with a magnet. It only takes a few seconds to do.

I have not had an uneven sharpening problem. If there were a problem, there is an adjustment to compensate. I do not use the the tool rest. I use the under-the-disk portion of the machine because the tool ALWAYS comes back to the exact same angle for regrind or touch-up.

If I were to use the tool rest I would be back to the original problem that all of the other procedures have---Me, personally, would have to put the tool down in the exact position. I just cannot do it even remotely as well as the WorkSharp. Therefore, even with a tool rest, I cannot sharpen nearly as well as the WS, under wheel, method does.

I have had zero problem with wobble. The disks seat so well that I hardly even put pressure on the knob when attaching a disk. I don't put on enough pressure to bruise a strawberry---it is not needed.

Talk to Glenn, my son, he uses my WorkSharp even though he has several other systems.

Enjoy,

Jim

[Jason Sutphin]

Hi Jim - thanks. I did notice that reading through their manual that there are t slots funder the machine (back free hand space) for attaching accessories. I imagine that they will be coming up with atachments soon. Probably wouldn't be too hard to make something.

I think Worksharp looks better for flattening the backs of chisels on new chisels. I am not sure how this works on the Tormek style machines, I can see using the side of the stone, but you'd have to grade it somehow to put a finer polish on the back.


Makes me thinkk of two more questions:
1. When sharpening carving gouges from underneath, while you are rotating it to follow the curve, has the corner ever gotten stuck in a slotted wheel? I'd imagine that would be quite scarey and may ruin something.

2. Has anyone tried sharpening a knife yet?

Jason

[herb fellows]

I have the 3000 and have been very happy with it, but I don't have tools that need sharpening underneath so I can't speak to that.

They have just come out with a retro fit for 3" chisels, about $70 at Hartville, and they were throwing in another glass wheel with that and free shipping, but that deal might have ended.

I've had occassioin to contact them and they've been really responsive, I think they call it 'customer service'? It's been so long since I've seen it, I forget!

I haven't tries knives and scissors yet, but i see no logical reason why it wouldn't work on the top wheel, you'd just have to practice holding a good angle for whatever it is you're sharpening.

[Joe Vincent]

I've not used the WorkSharp, but from what I've read and the video demos I've seen make me think it can be very good for chisels and pretty good for plane blades. The concern I have with respect to plane blades is that I'm not sure how cambers are achieved or touched up with a WorkSharp. Seems like you could set a nice primary bevel but then you'd have to turn to stones or Scary Sharp to camber. Perhaps it can be done on the top wheel, but I've yet to hear of anyone actually doing it. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?