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Thread: Has anybody refinished a bathtub?

  1. #1
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    Has anybody refinished a bathtub?

    I'm looking to repaint typical porcelain over cast iron tub.

    I had the tub for almost 20 years and never used it. So, durability of the finish is not very important. My friend had a refinishing company do his and I was not impressed by the finish quality and the amount of overspray.

    I see do-it-yourself kits on the internet that use 2 part expoxy paint by either a roller (Tubby) or spraygun. Does anyone have any experience with these products or have any recommendations?

    thanks, Jeff

  2. #2
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    I've been considering it, and know someone who did it using a kit. The end result is pretty good but doesn't last that long. Unless your bathroom is too small to bring in a new tub or you have a really special tub that can't be replaced (an old claw foot) I wouldn't recommend it.

  3. #3
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    I refinished a shower stall last year using a Big Box aerosol epoxy kit. It was a two part mixture that required a mind-numbing ritual to use. I had to return twice to get more product, it required three times what the directions said. I also felt that the propellant was insufficient to use all the material. I felt (by weight) that a lot of the refinishing material was unused. I was satisfied with the final result, but would not rave about it. I was covering a 1970 harvest gold shower stall, so that may have been why so much was required. White over white may be better. Make sure you have a good respirator, it is nasty stuff.

  4. #4
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    I used to live in a house built in 1949. It had the original, cast iron tub and it was showing its wear. I considered having it "re-sealed" as many of my neighbors had done. Once I looked into it, I decided against it.

    I called one contractor and even he talked me out of it. As mentioned, it's just epoxy paint and it doesn't last very long.

    Then I saw my neighbor's tub. She had the re-sealing done by a professional. After only a few months, the paint started peeling like crazy. It was a bloody mess.

    I ended up taking a sledge hammer to my old tub. I replaced it with a fiberglass insert which was inexpensive, but looked great. It helped me to sell the house the second day it was on the market. The buyers commented that every other house in the neighborhood had worn out bathtubs and they liked that my bathroom was like new.

    If you're going to put money anywhere in your house, it should be the bathroom; then the kitchen. (A workshops is a different story because you can take most of it with you.)

  5. #5
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    We had our blue tub painted about 5 years ago. I had someone do it. He did an excellent job and the finish is holding up very well. Some companies also make a plastic cover that is made to fit the configuration of your tub. My brother had it done to his "salmon" colored 1960's tub and it also turned out well.

  6. #6
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    What do you think about using the spray or roll on bed liner material that's sold at auto parts places" Not too expensive, and seems like the texture would make it less slippery. You could just do the bottom, if that's where the problem is.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the responses.

    Removing the tub is out of the question...at least now it is.
    Here's a CAD rendering of the desired outcome. The tiles have been installed and the stone stool will be ordered shortly for both the shower and the tub surround.

    The tub has never been used in the 20 years we've lived here and the hassle and expense to remove it or replace it is simply not worth it. I don't have any major concerns about longevity since I don't anticipate using it either as a tub or as a shower stall.

    I looked at the tub inserts. Good suggestion. But I think refinishing is easier and I could do it myself with my brothers.

    I'm wondering more about finish quality, preparatory work, etc. Or any other goofy thing that can go wrong. Or if one refinishing system is better than another.


    -Jeff


  8. #8
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    I saw it done on one of the home improvement shows, and they were using a respirator both for prep and spraying. The prep involved the use of acetone.

    I would expect detailed instructions on whatever kit you buy, but as for brand
    I don't remember exactly, but it was Integrity something, maybe integrity refinishing or coatings or both. The company sold materials and supplies to professionals but also a DIY kit. Naturally these TV programs don't go back and tell you later how a job held up.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  9. #9
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    My folks had their tub refinished several years ago and I believe it is holding up well. If you go the refinishing route, see what kind of guarantee they give you.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  10. #10
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    I'm wondering if the same stuff could be used to refurbish a very, very large and very, very mauve jacuzzi tub...the mauve needs to go someday, although it's now the girlie-girls bathroom. (We don't got no stinkin' tub in our new master bath...just a 5' x 6' shower with green slate all over it...) Seriously, I'd like to redo that bath someday and update the look and like Jeff's situation, removing the existing tub is not a practical solution. The mauve has to go! It would have to be cut apart with a Sawsall to get it out of the house...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    It would have to be cut apart with a Sawsall to get it out of the house...
    And the problem?

    I inquired about the cost of having some holes filled where the shower doors were mounted on our acrylic shower stall. It would have run about $150 and no guarantee on the color match. To paint the whole thing would have been as much as a new acrylic shower stall. Plus the painted surface wouldn't have been as durable. For the money, I would have been better off ripping out the old one and replacing it. Instead we just put up new doors so that the holes were covered. In a DIY situation, if you have the skills and can do most/all of the work, I just don't see the economics in refinishing unless you have an odd size tub or other issue. Chances are if the tub is a bad color, the rest of the room needs significant work. My next choice would probably be the overlays that are always advertised for just a tub remodel. I don't think that could be done with a shower stall or jetted tub.


  12. #12
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    Matt, while I'd love to remove it, that would require a complete remodel of that bathroom since all the tile would need replaced, etc. Even a "bad paint job" might be preferable! We are talking a structure that is about 6' long by about 4' wide and 24" tall, give or take. (And because of that, the shower is small for even a phone booth....)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    What's wrong with mauve, Jim? You aren't a 90's kind of guy?

  14. #14
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    Pat...think late 1970s/early 1980s on the mauve thing. My own mother just finally got rid of the mauve carpet in their central Florida house and moved to a more palatable Berber...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Oh, I think Mauve was late 80's early 90's. We had mauve carpet in our house when we moved in which was original from when it was built in 90/91.

    Late 70's/early 80's was Harvest Gold. My MILs 1978 trailer has lots of Harvest Gold.

    All equally BAD!


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