When to route?

[Amy Leigh Baker]

I plugged in the flush-trim bit and it worked great. I tried to plug in the 1/2" roundover bit which is 1 1/2" wide and it is too big! The hole in the base that the bit plunges through will not accept bits over 1 1/4".

Is this normal? The part that's not big enough is clear plastic and I thought about trying to alter it. I am just upset because I waited a long time to buy a router and this one was about the only plunge router in my price range.

I would put a link to the router on the website, but I don't know if that is okay via the site rules. Craftsman model # 17540.

[John Thompson]

Different bases have various diameters.. Some will come with two or three bases with larger holes in each one. Common. If you only got one and have access to a drill press.. use a forstner bit and cut it a tad wider than the largest bit you have at the moment.

If you don't have access to a Drill Press.. cut a hole larger in a piece of scrap and clamp the hole over you base-plate hole. Then drill it (slow the variable speed for plastic or phonelic) with a hand held drill.

Good luck...

Sarge...

[Greg Hines, MD]

I plugged in the flush-trim bit and it worked great. I tried to plug in the 1/2" roundover bit which is 1 1/2" wide and it is too big! The hole in the base that the bit plunges through will not accept bits over 1 1/4".

Is this normal? The part that's not big enough is clear plastic and I thought about trying to alter it. I am just upset because I waited a long time to buy a router and this one was about the only plunge router in my price range.

I would put a link to the router on the website, but I don't know if that is okay via the site rules. Craftsman model # 17540.

You can always remove the baseplate and replace it with another, or even a hardboard baseplate if that suits you better. I would hesitate to modify your stock baseplate, as it may be able to take guide bushings now, and if you bore out the opening, you would not be able to do that anymore.

I cannot say if Craftsman has extra or wide-opening baseplates, but I would imagine that they do, most manufacturers do.

I would resist the idea of using the router without a baseplate, as most routers have various irregularities that they will catch on workpieces, or at least, scratch your workpiece.

Your other option would be to invest in a 3/8" or 1/4" roundover bit too.

Doc

[Randal Cobb]

Another tip...

If you aren't planning on using your new router in a table, you may want to go out and buy some of that rubberized grid stuff that is used under area rugs and carpets to keep them from sliding around on hardwood floors. You can lay this stuff down and place your pieces on top of it to route... the matting/anti-slip stuff will keep your workpiece steady while routing. I've been doing this for a while (we use it to keep plates and bowls from sliding around in our camper and got the idea to try it on a piece I was working on in the shop one day) now and noticed that Norm uses it for the same purpose on his show.

[Jeff Bratt]

Buying the router is just the start - soon you will be making all kinds of custom bases, fences, and other gadgets to attach to your new toy. Then a router table... Additional bases are usually the first thing you want. Just use the original base as a template and make another with whatever size hole you need. Bases can be made of ply, MDF, lexan, aluminum... Also, Check out Bill Hylton's book "Router Magic" for more ideas on what a router can do.

I also vote for route first, cut second. For frames, you probably need to make at least two cuts - don't forget the rabbet on the inside edges where the picture fits into the frame. Make that cut first... before rounding the outside edge.

[Prashun Patel]

Routing narrow stock by hand can get dicey. Clamps get in the way and stability's an issue.

You can make a baseplate easy with plywood or mdf. In fact, a wider baseplate can really help the stability when handrouting.

If you're making yr own molding, I've found it helpful to work from a thicker piece of stock, and route, then rip to width.

Another tip (there are a million): when flush trimming, tape the surface the bearing rides on with painters tape. The bearing and washer can lightly score and shine the surface. I didn't notice these marks until after finishing. They can be sanded out, but it's more work than the tape.


When

[John Pahl]

Amy,
I just went to the sears website and found quite a few replacement base plates that will fix your problem. I would look at purchasing one of these that has a larger diamater hole for your larger router bits. I have 3 different base plates for my routers. I always try to use the base blate with the smallest possible opening for safety reasons. (I don't know if it's actually safer or not but I feel like it is) Anyway, I wouldn't recommend altering the base that you have because then you won't be able to use guide bushings with you router. A few more $'s will get you going in the right direction.

John

[Mark Valsi]

AMY,


DOn't forget that along with eye and ear protection, use some kind of dust mask !!!!

Routers kick up a lot of dust !!!