Question on Dovetail Jigs

[Craig Hemsath]

I'd like to get a dovetail jig and have been browsing some of the options. Holy buckets, I quickly realized many are far beyond my budget. I'm looking for something simple to cut basic dovetails (no fancy work, because I'm not that skilled as it is). I have seen several jig that are quite cheap for sale around the internet. Would these work for the basic things I'm looking to do? Or should I not waste my money on that and just save for a higher end jig?

Thanks for any advice.

[Randal Cobb]

My own personal experience says to forgo the "cheapies" and get a decent one. The frustration of trying to get one of the cheap ones to make a decent joint added to the waste of good stock quickly adds up. IMHO, the EASIEST jig to use would be the Akeda which is a bit more expensive than the norm (Porter Cable or Leigh). If you have a Woodcraft store local and they still have one, you might be able to pick up the Akeda for around $280. If that's still too expensive, then you can't really go wrong with the Porter Cable and/or Leigh jigs for less than $200.

[Mike Henderson]

To me, the problem with the cheap dovetail jigs is that they have fixed spacing. The problem with fixed spacing is that you have to make your drawers (or whatever you're going to dovetail) the proper size so that the dovetails fit evenly. So rather than build it the way you want, you have to build it to fit the jig.

But if you aren't doing dovetails for production work, they aren't that hard to do by hand (it does take some practice to learn). When you do them by hand, you can space them however you want - you can even space them unevenly (bigger on the top and bottom and less in the middle - or however you want).

For most hobby woodworkers, a dovetail jig is one of the least used tools in the shop. Try by hand first (unless you are doing production work).

Mike

[Brian Penning]

I'd highly recomend the Porter cable 4212. I have one and would buy it again. Not too expensive. Easy to use and if you Googlize it you'll get mostly positive reviews.

Thing I like about it is when you haven't used it for a few months or so it's easy to relearn how you used it.

Having 2 dedicated routers for it(1 for pins, 1 for tails) makes it even easier to use due to not having to adjust it.

http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/

[Steve Flavin001]

versions sold for about $80 at numerous places as knockoffs from house labels - and dumped it. As he generally states, the problem is specifically that adjustments are too course, too cumbersome and every time you want to change your work product - size, thickness, etc, is prohibitively time consuming added to the frustration and wasted material.

The Leigh and Porter's new high end among others, offer wonderous features that are not for the novice, and you probably will never use, selling at $300 - $400.

After pitching my $80 beast, I bought the Porter Cable for something like $120 and am very happy with it - it also offers many sophisticated joints that I will probably never get to but are there if you want them.

[Steve Flavin001]

Using the 4212, for which I echo your comments, why do you have two routers for pins and tails? I could understand that for something like half-blind v. full, but haven't had to readjust for pins and tails within the same (half-blind) work. Tell me what I have been overlooking or doing wrong, please. Thanks.

[Steve Flavin001]

"Thing I like about it is when you haven't used it for a few months or so it's easy to relearn how you used it" e.g. P-C 4212

[Brian Penning]

2 routers are recommended for THROUGH dovetails which is what I mostly use the jig for.

From the manual "Use two routers (if possible) - one for the pins and the other for the tails - to make the process quicker and easier."

[Jim Becker]

Craig, the PC 4212 is an excellent choice for half-blind dovetails. (generally the most used by hobbiest woodworkers because they are ideal for drawers) The Keller system is great for through dovetails and if you usually build drawers with false fronts, it's can be used quite nicely for that, too. Neither of these is "cheap"--both are good quality tools for a fair price.

[Jim Thiel]

...I'm looking for something simple to cut basic dovetails (no fancy work, because I'm not that skilled as it is).

Mike offers some good advice. Try your hand at hand cutting them. It is a good exercise, will sharpen your skills, and will boost your confidence when you find they are not as difficult as they appear.

That said, when I need to make drawers, I like my d4r best.

Jim

[Gene E Miller]

Greetings & Salutations,

I cast my vote for the Akeda.

I managed to get one that was like brand new with all of the
accessories off of ebay for $200.00

When I say like brand new all of the bits that came with it still
had cosmoline on them.

The Akeda is very easy to use and you can make your dovetail
pattern anything you like as far as spacing goes.

If you are going to be doing large panels they now have a new
version that will do up to 24" panels which is nice for chests or
any type of large panel.

Look around a while and check ebay as there is one for sale
there every now and then.

Gene

[J. Z. Guest]

Hi Craig: I was in the same boat a month or so ago.

I was going to save up for the Porter-Cable 4212, as it seems to do everything for about $180. But as you said, that is a lot of greckles.

As I thought of it more, I'm not so impressed by half blind dovetails anyhow. If you can't see them, what's the point?

I found the MLCS Pins and Tails through dovetail jig, and it was the answer to my questions. This page has a summary of a WOOD Magazine review on it.

I like it and used it to do through dovetails on the nightstand I recently completed. (see Projects forum for details)

I've got it set up and am getting used to it. I need to figure out how to get it so that the boards line up when I'm done routing.

This jig is basically a low-priced copy of the Keller Journeyman jig. The Keller has an advantage in that it uses a bearing-guided dovetail bit instead of a guide bushing and alignment of pieces is simplified a bit because of this.

I may still end up getting another DT jig, but I'm not so sure now. If you get this jig and end up mounting it to a laminated hardwood block, do yourself a favor and don't use Home Depot wood screws. Use fine thread drywall screws. The heads twist off on the Home Depot wood screws. (dammit)

[Bill Huber]

I have the PC 4212 and it is a very nice tool to have and works very well. I have all the different templates for it to do box, though dovetails and they all work well.

Now I have never used this tool it does look really neat for cutting dovetails by hand.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...18&cat=1,42884

[Craig Hemsath]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I may just wait on it. I could bother a friend of mine that has a PC jig and maybe a six pack could buy me a day or two with it

[fRED mCnEILL]

I bought a jig similar to the MLCS jig except on mine you get a phenolic plastic template to make your own jig. You can make the jig as long as you want to. I have several ranging from 6 inches to 2 feet. And one of the nice features is if you knick the jig with the router you just make another. With the Akeda, Keller, Leigh, etc. you BUY another template.

As far as the spacing being fixed and having to build your drawer to suit the spacing I don't see what that has to do with anything. I built a whole kitchen including 20 or so drawers and have yet to have anyone tell me the spacing was not right. I cut the drawers and centre the drawer on the jig. Works good, looks good, fits good, what else do you need. I have looked at the Leigh jigs to do fancier dovedails including variable spacing but just can't get my mind around spending 4 or 5 hundred dollars when my 50 dollar jig does every bit as good a job. To me variable spaicng is DIFFERENT than fixed spacing, NOT better.

Fred Mc.