Will buffing help?

[Les Kuesel]

I'm turning things that are handled some. I'm contemplating about getting a buffing system and I'm wondering if it would help. I want to keep it somewhat looking shiny and new. It appears to me buffing is great for an oil finish (like danish oil). But I plan on using a spar or poly finish. So would buffing help or does it just put a wax finish that will wear off after time. Could you buff before doing the finish? I sand up to 600 and dry buff with a cloth or woodchips now,then finish and it seems to work good now. Tanks

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Les,

Buffing will help with any finish in my opinion. I've used it on everything and can't imagine living with out one. It was amazing how much better my turnings looked after I acquired a buffer. BTW...Yes you can use it on wood without any finish. You can use it on plastics with great results. And if you don't want to put wax on something, don't use the 3rd wheel or wax. I've used it to tone down a finish when I thought it was too shiny. Pens, bowls.....goblets, HFs, ....use it on everything. Once you have one and use it, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. It is not too difficult to use if you keep a couple of things in mind....hold on tight to the object being buffed. The buffer can take something away from you and throw in places you didn't know exist in your shop. When you first get one, the wheels will throw lint/fuzz at you. Don't be alarmed. Take some coarse sand paper and buff the sand paper. After a minute or so, the rough edges of the wheels will be smoothed out and the lint will quit being thrown out. Don't use the white diamond wheel on dark porous woods as the white diamond will get in the pores and you could be there until doomsday removing the stuff. Other than that...one of the best improvements for my turnings. Good luck with your decision.

[Glenn Hodges]

When I buffed my first bowl I brought it to the house for the wife to see and she remarked about how much my finishing had improved. You can not only feel the improvment, but see it.

[Jim Becker]

Leo, a spar varnish is very soft and not a great choice for turnings. It's designed for, well...spars...that bend in the wind. Poly is also a poor choice for turnings as it was designed for abrasion resistance (for floors) and therefore, will not buff out as nicely as an alkyd or phenolic varnish. It can also be a little more cloudy.

If you want an off-the-shelf product that is great on turnings, wipes on easily and buffs out very nicely, Minwax's Antique Oil Finish (which is a varnish, not an oil...and also contains no polyurethane resins) is a turner's staple.

Buffing can add a little shine, but it also helps you make your sheen even. Consistency is a good thing!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Minwax Antique Oil for most all of my turnings. If it is going to be handled I will add some Renaissance wax which helps keep the finger prints down.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Les - buffing really does help with the final finish. Whether you use poly, oil or whatever - the buffing process evens out the finish and you can actually feel the difference as well as see it. Once you buff one of your turnings and see for yourself the actual improvement to the finish - you'll become a believer!

[Allen Neighbors]

Les, I also believe in buffing. Finished or unfinished wood will buff out beautifully. I also have a short tutorial on how to make your own buffiing system. PM me with your email address if you want it, and I'll email it to you. You might decide to make your own.