Screws or Nails

[Mike Gabbay]

I'm getting started on my deck. Finally! One question I've been kicking around is to use mostly screws for my framing or nails. My county allows for both. What do you guys prefer?

The decking will be all screws.

I have found myself leaning more towards screws since they tend to be easier to place and if needed remove.

If I go with screws I'll be in the market for an impact driver. Recommendations?

[Chuck Saunders]

Screws for decking, nails for framing. I feel that the framing fastener is subjected more to shear than tension and the additional diameter of the nails is beneficial. When it comes to screwing the deck, a Senco Duraspin DS-300 cannot be beat.

[Stephen Edwards]

For me, it's screws everywhere on a deck, framing and decking. Of course, I predrill the holes in the bands so that everything pulls up tightly.

[Travis Rassat]

If you're looking for an impact driver, I just saw the other day that Bosch is offering a free pocket driver with the purchase of one of their other 10.8 volt tools:

http://www.boschtools.com/freepocket...s/default.aspx

You could get the impact driver kit with 2 batteries to qualify for the pocket driver:
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/T...spx?pid=ps40-2

I don't know if that's quite what you were looking for, but I thought I'd share!

[Prashun Patel]

I agree with Chuck. Nails handle shear force better; will bend instead of snapping like screws. Screws handle tearout stress better.

I like Makita's 18v impact drivers.

Most critically, pick expensive fasteners. They'll split the wood less, snap less, cam out less, hold better, and last longer. I really like McFeely's for selection.

[jason lambert]

Scewes for the decking or hidden fasners. nails tend to stick up after a while screws don't work them selfs out as easy.

I have one of thoes Bosh impact drivers it is a great tool, love it. That is a good deal usally they sell for about $160.

[Ben Cadotte]

I have not done a deck since going to the new treating process for lumber (many years). The new treating components is more corrosive to the fasteners than the old. Reason screws are now coated instead of galvanized. Are nails now comming coated? Or they still regular metal / galvanized. That would be my first question. If the nails are not coated like the screws meant for treated lumber. I think I would go with screws. Even if it makes the job longer.

[Lee Koepke]

I have not done a deck since going to the new treating process for lumber (many years). The new treating components is more corrosive to the fasteners than the old. Reason screws are now coated instead of galvanized. Are nails now comming coated? Or they still regular metal / galvanized. That would be my first question. If the nails are not coated like the screws meant for treated lumber. I think I would go with screws. Even if it makes the job longer.

the nails i used on my deck were coated for use in the new CCA treated lumber.

i used nails for everything, my experience has been that trying to remove screws later on were harder than nails if i ever had to modify a deck board ( which by the way has never happened ) ... so its pretty even in my book.

[Greg Cole]

I shoot nails in the framing and screw the decking. There are fasteners made for the new PT concoction. If you are worried about corrosion you can get stainless fasteners if you're feeling spendy.
My last deck was topped with trex where screwing is a must.... tee hee. Unless you go with a hidden fastener system that is... I still like screwing.
I too like the Bosch driver Jason mentioned....

Cheers.
Greg

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Chuck, despite the fact I hate driving nails with a hammer due to wrist problems, they are probably best for the framing for the reason he cited. (I do have a framing gun now...) Screws for the deck surface would be my choice if they had to go in the face, but there is a lot to be said for the hidden fastening systems for this particular type of project.

[Matt Ocel]

Stephen -
If use screws into any mechanical fastners you coluld be looking for trouble.
According to Simpson strong ties screws lower the shear rating and are not reccomended.

Two potential problems,

1) Hangers are engineered to perform to a certian level and when load on a deck is calculted, it is calculated off of manufactures specs. If a certian hanger was calculated at its max and you use screws that is a failure waiting to happen.

2) A good Building Inspector will make you pull all screws and comply to manufacteres recommendation.

[Peter Quinn]

Nail the joist hangers, buy or rent a positive placement gun if you don't like swinging a hammer or the deck is large, screws for the floor boards. I have used a few screws in hangers to get things placed but I don't trust them to bear the sheer load for an entire deck. Fasten master makes some dipped deck ledger bolts for ACQ that are REALLY strong for that application, beats the old galvi lags in strength and ease.

For impact drivers I like Makita. 14.4V will easily build your deck and save you some weight. 18V will drive almost anything. Those silly little built in LED's come in real handy in lots of cases.

[Von Bickley]

I am using galvanized nails for the framing with joist hangers. I am also using 1/2 bolts on a lot of the framing because the PT lumber will warp and twist so bad.

I am using 2-1/2" screws on the decking boards with a Hitachi impact driver.
You will definitely want an impact driver for installing your decking screws.

[Mike Gabbay]

Hey guys good feedback. To clarify, I was already planning on using screws for the decking. The decking will be Timbertech.

The point about the hangers is a good one. I have about 30 hangers to nail so a positive placement gun may be a wise rental.

I'll look at the Boch and Makita impact drivers.

Now the fun part - digging 9 2foot wide 40" deep footings! And filling them with cement of course....