Mike,
I will answer how I did this. I simply used the webbing recommended in the FWW article, my base was M&T'd poplar. My mom is a seamstress and thus did all of my cushions. They are a thick piece of foam (also recommended in the FWW article) simply sat on top of the base, than some batting and than the "leather". She did them very similar to the FWW article and they turned out great!
Ben
Thanks Ben. I better look for my FWW article and study that. Do you have any pics of the underside of your seat cushion?
I just looked back at my posts and I started this build in 4/2010 actually. Time flies by so rapidly in life sometimes. Spending quality time in the shop slows life down a little. Maybe it is our version of "smelling the roses" ? Replace roses with sawdust. I have really enjoyed this group project even though I have been straggling. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this amazing thread.
I will wrap the chairs up soon. My wife has a list of furniture for the house and a Stickley dresser is next. I have never built any drawer projects before and it looks like fun. Anyone want to do a SMC dresser group project in the coming year?
You can see the cushion bases here:
Haha, Mike check my new thread about a Crib build I am working on. Come May of next year, I think that my shop time might be brought to a screeching halt! Actually, a dresser is right up next once the crib is done. Should be starting to model it up in CAD the next work or so and hopefully start building before Christmas!
Ben
I now recall seeing this image of your seat webbing in the thread.
I should be ready to start a dresser project after the holidays. We are thinking about the 625 or 637 dressers. My wife needs to visit the local Stickley dealer again and decide.
Anyone else want to build a dresser? It will be good opportunities to use my Akeda dovetail jig for the drawers.
Mike, my cushion is not attached to the deck. A variation would be a slip seat aka as an attached cushion. Personally, I like the option of flipping my cushion over if it picks up a stain.
I'll post more details on how to properly finish off that spring deck in a day or two.
Last edited by Bernie Briden; 11-27-2013 at 6:08 PM.
A few more details as well as why springs. I built from Bob Lang's plans for a #336. There's not enough room in my opinion to fit coil springs in the base, zig zig aka no sag is the next best option. Rubber webbing is not a terrible way to go but the straps wear out in just a couple years. Jute webbing isn't altogether bad either, however, it's basically a sling and it also will sag after a few years. To my way of thinkin' wood slats are better than jute. No sag springs will most likely last a life time...... BUT it's a more involved design for a DIYer. An upholsterer could handle it easily enough though.
It's important to note that the loose seat cushion does not come in direct contact with the springs. Burlap is stretched over the springs and stapled to the wood frame. Then some form of thin (approx 1/4''-3/8''), dense padding is sewn to the burlap and springs to keep it from shifting around. Ideally, the next step is edge roll being tacked in place along the outside edge of the wood frame. The springs create a crown higher than the wood frame, edge roll is a way to fill that void and stabilizes the loose seat cushion. Then another layer of pad and some light denim/canvas to finish things off.
I'll see what I can do about getting some pictures of the deck 'in progress'.
Finally got that SLR that I had been asking for for a while. Still learning how to use it, but these photos are much more realistic than the cell phone ones I posted previously in this thread...
My wife and I spent the weekend at the Grove Park Inn in Asheville, and I still can't figure out why you would put the front tenon through the arm. Would always be in the way of my drink/tablet/etc (as is well demonstrated in this pic)!
Ben
Hey guys, there is some beautiful work here. I have not read all the posts, however, I was wondering if anyone has tried a reproduction of the Metropolitan Morris Chair from Stickley. It is a beautiful design with double splade legs with walnut and cherry. I plan to begin one in February when my new jointer planer arrives. I spent some time today modifying my traditional Morris Chair plan. Will be happy to post when I get started.
http://issuu.com/stickley/docs/stk_t...tanmorrischair
That appears to be the inspiration for the California West bow arm Morris chair that American Furniture Design sells plans for. Depending on how far along in your planning you are, their plan might be a good foundation to build on.
Dan
Well, no major progress to report but I thought I would post an update anyhow. I have been going through all my lumber and planing off the rough stuff, by hand. I realize this kinda puts me in 'crazy' territory, but I haven't worked much with QSO before and I wanted to get a good idea of the flake patterns in this batch and so on. Also, my only jointer / planer is powered by beer and cheetos so I don't have much of a choice. I am about halfway though, after which I look forward to starting the ottomans. Wish me luck.
Mike
Jointing and planing by hand is pretty nuts Mike. I was squaring and dimensioning some lumber for a few hours yesterday with stationary power tools and I was tired. Have you considered taking your lumber to a local woodworking school and using their machines to dress and square the rough stock? Good luck with your build.
I am almost done with my chairs. I have the wedges cut and glued to form the drop in the arms. I just need to cut the dado and through mortises in them. I have finished the design of my ottoman which has a bottom shelf.
Without reading back far enough to find out, are you building the chair out of the Fine Woodworking plan? I am getting ready to start on mine using the Wood Mag plan, but like the curved back slats. The only issue I have, is with a foam cushion backrest will the curved slats make a difference or will the foam take away that comfort advantage, and without them being seen, is it worth the time?
Welcome to the Morris thread Joe. I am using the book The Furniture of Gustav Stickley: History, Techniques, and Projects by Joseph J. Bavaro.
I have looked at all of the plans available and the plan from this book is the most authentic to the original. One place where all the other publications mess up is the where the arm and front through tenon meet. Some have the tenon biased towards the front while others have it towards the rear of the arm. I modeled the chair in sketchup and worked out all of the details before cutting wood.
After seeing the flat back versions and the original version with the curved rails, the curve softens the linear lines of the chair in an elegant way. I don't think comfort will be sacrificed too much going with the flat back but it just looks a little primitive in comparison. I am a product designer by trade so the little detail make a huge difference in the character of a design to me. It did take some time slicing and laminating the curves but is all worth it in my opinion. I also used a lock miter joints on the legs and that took much longer than just gluing 2 halves and adding veneers.
Glad you are going to join us.