Radial Arm Saw Opinions

[Matt Hutchinson]

I am now considering buying a very awesome radial arm saw as a temporary table saw. I have used a radial arm saw (a junky Craftsman that I currently own) for ripping, crosscutting, and mitering. I didn't mind it a bit. Sure a table saw is more convenient, but at the moment I won't be doing sheet good, and I think I could manage with a radial arm saw. Has anyone at some point used a radial arm saw in place of a table saw? I personally don't have anything against them, and I would save up to get a tablesaw in the future, like 6 months down the road.

Now, this isn't any small saw. This is an old Delta/Rockwell 14" saw, and about a 20" crosscut capacity. I have seen it in person, and everything is dead on....absolutely beautiful machine. All the moving parts glide smoothly and effortlessy, and there is no play anywhere. I think I may be able to get it for $400....quite a steal. Here is the link to the modern day equivalent. And no this is not an exaggeration, this is indeed the monster tool that is available to me.

http://www.cpowoodworking.com/radial...=froogle33-401

Opinions??

Hutch

[Jeff Miller]

Quit asking questions and go get it before somebody else does.........................................hurry up and get going




JEFF

[Roy Harding]

You've got 3 ph power available? (Or can get a phase converter).

If so - go for it.

[Jim O'Dell]

Hopefully the one you have available to you would be single phase. My first saw was a Craftsman RAS. I built a complete set of kitchen cabinets out of ash and ash ply with it. Probably used a circular saw for the ply...too long ago and can't remember. I burned it up cutting concrete Pavestone retaining wall blocks, with a masonry blade in it. I think it was the dust that killed the motor. I have my Dad's older than dirt Craftsman now. Not sure I will use it much, but I'm going to set it up and plumb it for dust control, if for no other reason than it was my Dad's saw.
So, yea, I'd go for it, as long as it is single phase. If it is 3 phase, you can get a decent contractor saw for the interim for less than the RAS and the convertor. Jim.

[jerry nazard]

Matt,

On two occasions I used a RAS for an extended period when setting up new shops. The RAS was simply better for framing and shop carpentry than any thing else. BUT... both saws were quickly replaced with a TS and from that time on were used only for 90~ cutoff. I avoid most ripping operations (except dedicated ones) on the RAS.

The particular saw you mention is well worth owning. So... what are you waiting for??

Best!

-Jerry

[Matt Hutchinson]

You all have confirmed what I thought. After seeing it I was impressed, but after seeing how much a new one costs I knew I should snatch it up. I have e-mailed the owner, and I hope to find out later today if I got it. I am so giddy. Here is a picture of it.

Hutch

P.S. Yes, this is 3 phase, but I will be getting a rotary converter.

[Peter Quinn]

I think a RAS of that quality is worth owning (I have a DeWalt 14" w/24" cross cut) but not so much to replace a table saw. Ripping is the kicker. Its quicker, easier, and IME much safer on a TS. They used to make power feeds that fit the RAS for ripping and shaping operations, probably still do. You might want one if your going to be ripping a lot on this machine. There's a few good books and a couple of RAS forums worth checking out to avoid making any costly mistakes if this is your first RAS.

If your setting up a shop to do this professionally you might want to consider getting a table saw sooner rather than latter. Perhaps something like a TANNEWITZ!

[Jim Becker]

That's a sweet machine...'hope you can score it. While I'm not a general fan of the RAS, these big old machines are in a different league. I think I'd still be uncomfortable with any kind of ripping on the machine, but otherwise, if you have the space to really use it, it will be a great addition to your shop.

[Mike SoRelle]

Ripping on a RAS is the only shop operation that always induces a real palpable fear in me.

I still have mine, but these days I only use it for crosscuts that a 12" compound miter saw can't handle, I leave the rest to the table saw.

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have been doing ripping on an old junky RAS, yet even with 1.25" stock I have never had an inkling of pinching or kickback. Of course, a good long push stick is important, but I do plan on getting a tablesaw as soon as I can afford it. I just bought a planer, and I still need a jointer. So if I get the RAS, I will get the jointer next, then a tablesaw. Otherwise I will get a Grizzly TS and jointer.

Hutch

[Mark Kosmowski]

Do you have the thing yet? It's the bigger brother of my 12" Delta 33-890, which I'm very happy with. I don't think that ripping on a good quality RAS properly is any more or less dangerous than properly ripping on a good quality TS. I will admit that it is much easier to pick up an acceptable quality TS than RAS at a cheaper price.

Granted, I'm still newish to WWing, but I don't have a TS in my shop - no space when I started in a basement and now no space in a one car garage. I've got the RAS, a 14" bandsaw and recently picked up a guide system for my circular saw for sheet materials. The guide assembly I picked up within the past month. Before buying a fence for my bandsaw about 6 months ago I did all my cutting on the RAS.

Good luck with it! If you need to reduce overall weight to move it, feel free to unwire the motor (labelling which wire goes where as needed) and slide the motor off the carriage rails. It is not recommended to remove the arm assembly from the saw base if this can at all be avoided.

Some of my summer plans include rebuilding my RAS table - once this is done I'm going to work on an idea I have for a rip sled.

Hope you are able to get the beast! Good luck!

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have been doing ripping on an old junky RAS, yet even with 1.25" stock I have never had an inkling of pinching or kickback. Of course, a good long push stick is important, but I do plan on getting a tablesaw as soon as I can afford it. I just bought a planer, and I still need a jointer. So if I get the RAS, I will get the jointer next, then a tablesaw. Otherwise I will get a Grizzly TS and jointer.

Hutch

My dad still has the Craftsman radial arm that I used to toss a board into a door and leave a hunk of luan broken out. I would love to have another RAS, but not for its ripping ability. I would use it with a dado stack for dados and half-laps.

Doc

[Bruce Benjamin]

My dad still has the Craftsman radial arm that I used to toss a board into a door and leave a hunk of luan broken out. I would love to have another RAS, but not for its ripping ability. I would use it with a dado stack for dados and half-laps.

Doc

This same story could be repeated many thousands of times only substituting the tablesaw for the radial arm saw. I'll agree though that you do have to pay attention when ripping with the radial arm saw. But the same can be said of the tablesaw.

I've had a Craftsman RAS for about 15 years and it used to be my only saw. I always operate it with all of the factory safety devices installed. About 10 years ago or so I did have one accident with it while ripping but it was because I was stupidly trying to rip a piece about 16" long and about 3" wide. Duh! First the sawdust was hitting me in the face. At the same time that I sneezed the blade hit a knot in the small piece of wood. The piece kicked back and hit me in the chest while my left middle finger somehow found it's way into the side of the blade. The piece hitting my chest didn't hurt too much because the guard must have slowed it down but the end of my finger did get chewed up to the bone. Fortunately every bit of that finger has grown back and it's almost impossible to tell it was a problem.

I've had a couple of kick backs with my tablesaw too. In both situations I was following all safety protocols but with a tablesaw I believe it's impossible to eliminate the chance of a kickback, short of maybe using a power feeder. That's why I like my EZ Smart so much. But I still use my RAS for quick crosscuts, and for half laps it can't be beat. My tablesaw is primarily used for rips where the depth of cut is beyond what my Hilti circular saw will perform. Not used often though.

Bruce

[Craig McCormick]

I used a RAS exclusively for years. Most of our furniture was made with it. I now have a table saw which I do prefer over the RAS.

Good luck,

c

[Jeff Duncan]

Hopefully you got the RAS, those are good machines, I also would avoid ripping on one like the plague, (been there done that), but if your comfortable with it, then by all means.
More importantly, as you will be getting a phase converter anyway, stop messing around looking at those toys in the Grizzly catalog and get yourself some real machines. For much less money than any of those knock offs you can equip yourself nicely with some great Arn. I can't believe you would go from looking at a Tanny to a Grizzly? Sit down, take a few minutes and think about what you want in your shop. For me the table saw would be first and foremost b/c of the work I do. From there you buy one machine at a time in order of priority. Most of my shop is used equipment, and for the money I spend you couldn't come anywhere close in quality with Grizzly or any other inexpensive brands.
that's my opinion for what it's worth!
good luck,
JeffD