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Thread: Hidden deck fastener systems - Experience?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mid Michigan
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    3,559
    I used the Simpson deck fasteners that attach to the edge of the decking and require driving a screw in through the edge at an angle like Chris used on his deck. They were great to work with and are sold by a lot of retailers.
    I use Simpson or Simpson type fasteners for most of my construction projects and so far the only problem I have had has been with some corrosion caused by very heavily treated wood that was treated with the older chemicals.
    David B

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
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    1,389
    The simpson deck fasteners look nice, but:

    1.) it looks like you would see the fasteners when you look down on the deck

    2.) Also, it doesn't look like you could do any board arrangements that aren't perpendicular to the frames below the deck. I had looked at wanting to do a herring bone pattern.
    Grady - "Thelma, we found Dean's finger"
    Thelma - "Where is the rest of him?!"

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    15,332
    Quote Originally Posted by alex grams View Post
    The simpson deck fasteners look nice, but:

    1.) it looks like you would see the fasteners when you look down on the deck

    2.) Also, it doesn't look like you could do any board arrangements that aren't perpendicular to the frames below the deck. I had looked at wanting to do a herring bone pattern.
    Reaching DEEP into the memory banks:

    I don't RECALL the fasteners being all that visible. Now I used redwood that was already dried and butted 'em up tight to each other and even after a few years, where additional drying took place, you don't really see the fasteners. One thing to keep in mind, you'll find the fasteners if you go looking for them or you know they are there. 99% of the people staring at your deck will never see them. Maybe this is a big deal, maybe not.

    Also, the crud that builds up in the joints over time can also help conceal things a bit more.

    I don't see why you couldn't do your herringbone pattern. The clips get nailed to one side of the board and are then slipped under the previous board. Then the other side of that board gets toenailed into the joist. They want you to keep the clips as close to a joist as possible for maximum security since that side of the board is relying on the fastening on the previous board to say put.

    For the record, the deck I built was your typical perpendicular to the joists layout.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    New Braunfels, TX
    Posts
    238
    Leaning heavily towards the Deckmaster now.

    Anyone have a good (read cheap) supplier, online or local? I haven't found many, but any little discount would help.

    Thanks,
    Linc

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
    Posts
    1,261
    Quote Originally Posted by Lincoln Myers View Post
    Leaning heavily towards the Deckmaster now.

    Anyone have a good (read cheap) supplier, online or local? I haven't found many, but any little discount would help.

    Thanks,
    Linc
    Unless things have changed recently, Deckmaster products are the same price everywhere. I have purchased from Rockler (limited selection), a local distributor and directly from Deckmaster, all at the same price.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
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    I know its not any of the systems you asked about, but I used Tiger Claws from HD to attach the deck boards on my front deck. They work pretty well, but on long boards they can be a bit tricky to get in the way they say to do it. I found it faster to drill pilot holes for the points and use pipe clamps to pull the second board into the first board. The fasteners can be seen looking straight down between the boards, but otherwise are hidden. My deck was done on a diagonal to the joists. Only the last board back in the corner has one visible screw holding it down because that is where I ended.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  7. #22

    In the same boat...

    Lincoln,
    I am in the same position now that you were in June. I have joists 12" OC since I am running some 45 degree angles in the decking and have as little as 15" of clearance below the deck. I found the Shadoe Hidden Link system and based on some of the replies to your post found the Simpson DBT1Z. They appear to be variations on one another and both would work for me without laying down in between the joists screwing up.

    Which hidden fastener did you decide to use? How did it work out for you?

    Thanks

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    New Braunfels, TX
    Posts
    238
    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Olsen View Post
    Lincoln,
    I am in the same position now that you were in June. I have joists 12" OC since I am running some 45 degree angles in the decking and have as little as 15" of clearance below the deck. I found the Shadoe Hidden Link system and based on some of the replies to your post found the Simpson DBT1Z. They appear to be variations on one another and both would work for me without laying down in between the joists screwing up.

    Which hidden fastener did you decide to use? How did it work out for you?

    Thanks
    I used the Deckmaster. Worked out great. I screwed the majority of the screws in from above, leaning down in-between the joists. I used (and loved) the Bosch I-Driver for the task. The articulating head was real nice to use at different angles, sometimes in the straight-line position, depending on the different obstacles and framing/blocking I had in the joists.

    See review here:
    http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bidrvu.html

    I highly recommend the Deckmaster and the Bosch I-Driver to go along with it.

    -Linc

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