Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 27

Thread: Sticking Faceplate System

  1. #1

    Sticking Faceplate System

    I have this system from Craft Supplies but constantly have trouble with the faceplates seizing to the hub: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...te_system?Args=

    Anyone know of a good anti-seizure product similar to Locktite but works in the reverse? Thanks....Ron
    A turning a day keeps the doctor away.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Abilene, TX
    Posts
    223
    Hi Ron,

    For some reason it won't let me pull up your link so I can't see what you have, but I did have one experience with an aluminum faceplate (Craft Supplies) really seizing to the drive which is steel. Anyway, solved that problem by getting a steel faceplate, no problems ever since then at all. Had to do with different heat tolerances someone told me - I was simply glad to have the problem resolved.

    So I'm not sure that helps you at all, but I've been pleased with my steel/steel faceplate/drive ever since, no seizure. Hope you get the problem resolved.

    PS - Craft Supplies, by the way was absolutely outstanding. Nope, I don't work for them or anything, they had great customer service, refund or credit on that aluminum one, really great. Suited me up with what works now just fine.

    Jude

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Crystal Beach,Texas
    Posts
    224
    Have you tried one of these yet??
    http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...e_washer?Args=

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Anaheim, California
    Posts
    6,913
    That hub widget has wrench flats machined onto it, right? One thing that may help is to hold the hub with a wrench and spin off the plate while it's still screwed to the workpiece, rather than removing the assembled faceplate from the workpiece and then trying to take it apart.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paradise PA
    Posts
    3,098
    try wd-40, or something similar, and also what i have seen work well is taking a rubber or nylon washer and stacking them on the spindle so that the face plate hits the washers right before it bottoms out on the spindle
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paradise PA
    Posts
    3,098
    the no lock spindle washer that the same people that you got the plate from sell.
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  7. #7
    I think what you are asking for is a product referred to as an anti-sieze compound. Several brands are on the market.

    Basically, they are a petroleum vehicle containing small metallic or other particles. This stuff is nasty to work with though, as the vehicle will sling off, and the particles will seemingly get on everthing.

    Some of the particles are also poisonous.

    Have you tried using a bit of paste wax?

    Later,
    Dale M

  8. #8
    I've got the spindle washer but the problem is getting the faceplate off the hub, not the headstock spindle.

    I just thought about plumber's putty. Think that would work? Thanks....Ron
    A turning a day keeps the doctor away.

  9. #9
    Sounds llike the register for the hole on the plate is either too small/ out of round or the tenon on the hub is too big or out of round. if you have access to a set of Micrometers to measure it or a locale machinist to spin on the lathe to see if out of true. One way to check at home is High Spot blue compound ( small tube 3-5 $) on the hub side all the way around even coat , assemble the plate to the hub using index marks on both pieces so they align in the same spot each time and where the high spot rubs and looks really thin is where it is hiting the hardest . take some 400 grt w/d and polish the area on the plate hole, clean off the blue , reapply and test again. I think auto parts store may have Dykem Blue or similar Hi Spot blue. I have used it to hi spot / scrap in steam turbine cases etc so that the flanges match up for a 100% seal.
    John 3:16

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Hardinsburg, KY
    Posts
    44
    Ron, I think you misunderstood something that was said. Use one of your spindle washers on the hub before you add the faceplate. that out to take care of your problem. Also, you do not want to use plumber's putty. If the threads are seizing now, you can bet that they will seize even more if you use the putty. There is an anti-seize product available at most auto parts stores. Use as little as possible since it will sling. Looks like a nice system.

  11. #11

    Doug

    There's only 2 threads on the hub that joins to the faceplate so a spindle washer is too thick. Thanks anyway......Ron
    A turning a day keeps the doctor away.

  12. #12
    Gene O. Carpenter Guest

    Faceplate sticking to hub

    Try cutting such a spacer from a clean plastic milk carton.. Cheaper than $1.88 + $7.63 shpng!
    AND if it doesn't work just throw it away...

  13. #13
    From looking at that face plate kit you really don't have room to
    put any size spacer hardly at all, I know almost every auto parts store
    sells anti sieze compound that you might try.

  14. #14
    Ron, I use this system almost exclusively as my faceplate system and I love it! I use a red paper type washer between the faceplate and adapter it is about 1/16" or a bit less thick and I use channel lock pliers to break it free. There have been a couple of times where I have had to use a couple of brass pins dropped through the holes in the face plate and down into some holes in a flat surface to hold the assembly and then I use the channel locks. If you are interested I can send you some of the pins and a pic of how I do it. It is a very simple process and doesn't lessen the value of the system for me. All my vacuum chucks, donut chucks and other lathe mounted tools use the system. If you would like I can send pics. Just PM me if you want pics and/or pins, I have plenty of extra pins. I believe this is the faceplat assy. you are referring to.
    Last edited by Christopher K. Hartley; 06-13-2008 at 2:51 PM.
    Success is the sum of Failure and Learning

  15. #15
    That's it. E-mail on the way. Thanks.......Ron
    A turning a day keeps the doctor away.

Similar Threads

  1. Under concrete floor dust collection system (pics)
    By Dave Shively in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 05-01-2019, 12:27 PM
  2. Build your own buffing system?
    By Tom Jones III in forum Turner's Forum
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 10-30-2008, 8:09 PM
  3. Question re water system for Chinese CO2 laser
    By Jacqui Marlin in forum Laser Engraving General Topics
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 09-30-2007, 4:27 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •