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Thread: Request for Handplane Advice

  1. #1
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    Request for Handplane Advice

    Greetings to all,

    My name is Rob, and I'm a plane-o-holic. I've not been able to find a 12 step program, so I'm rolling with the punches.

    Seriously though................

    I'm contemplating an addition to the collection with a mind to add something useful. I currently have (2) #220, a 60 1/2, a #3, a #4, a #4 1/2, a #5, a #5C, a Sargent woodie jack, a #7, a #112, a coffin smoother, a german scrub, a german jack, a skewed rabbet, and a LV medium shoulder plane. All are highly tuned and perform well.


    I could use something small for trimming tenon cheeks, ends of dovetails, and for truing up smaller stock. If it looked cool and shiny that would be OK too.

    I'm thinking about either a LN Block Rabbet


    or #2 Bench


    I wish there was a rabbet plane the size of the #2 and set up like the #10 1/4 as I like a knob and tote, but alas there's not.

    Any comments from owners of either or both?
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    Greetings to all,

    My name is Rob, and I'm a plane-o-holic. I've not been able to find a 12 step program, so I'm rolling with the punches.
    [snip]
    I could use something small for trimming tenon cheeks, ends of dovetails, and for truing up smaller stock. If it looked cool and shiny that would be OK too.
    [snip]
    Any comments from owners of either or both?
    For trimming tenon cheeks, the block rabbet would be more useful.

    For trimming small stock, the No. 2 is a very useful plane. It could be replaced by a good block plane for these jobs.

    jim

  3. #3
    For Cheeks a No.140 is a good choice better than a No2 or Rabbit.
    Also works well for end grain on dovetails..

    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    I could use something small for trimming tenon cheeks, ends of dovetails, and for truing up smaller stock.
    [...]
    I'm thinking about either a LN Block Rabbet
    [...]
    Any comments from owners of either or both?
    I have the Lie-Nielsen 60-1/2R Rabbet Block Plane. It works well for making or cleaning up wide rabbets and tenons. It's also works great as a regular block plane and does well on end grain. I also like the hefty mass it has.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post


    I could use something small for trimming tenon cheeks, ends of dovetails, and for truing up smaller stock. If it looked cool and shiny that would be OK too.

    I'm thinking about either a LN Block Rabbet


    I tried the block rabbets and sold them. I prefer the added depth of a shoulder plane. They'll scrub deeper tenons and in use your hand is farther away from the work surface and doesn't obscure the work. I also found them needlessly heavy for the task.

    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  6. #6
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    Rob,
    the 60.5 is already very good at taking the ends off dovetails. The 60.5R won't do more there.

    For truing tenons, you might consider a router plane. That can true a tenon very well, and for similar money to the 60.5R, will provide many more varied uses. Since you've already got the LV med shoulder.

    On the other hand, if you're really a planeaholic, maybe you need them both, plus the 140. Oh, and a 6, and a 5.25, and a 5.5...and an 8....

    Ken

  7. #7
    I stopped short of getting the 140 or the rabbet block because I wondered about not having an adjustable mouth. Any opinions on that?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Camillo View Post
    I stopped short of getting the 140 or the rabbet block because I wondered about not having an adjustable mouth. Any opinions on that?
    The Lie-Nielsen 60-1/2R comes with a very tight mouth, and will take a fine shaving. I suspect the reason for not having an adjustable mouth is it would make the front of the plane too weak or flimsy. In use, I've found it works fine on cross grain and end-grain without it.

  9. #9
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    This wouldn't help you much for the tenon cheeks but the more I use this little Knight Pocket plane the more I like it.
    http://www.knight-toolworks.com/wooden.htm
    I picked it up used thru an SMC classified and tho it's not a low angle plane, it tackled purpleheart endgrain when building my bench better than either my LN Adj mouth LA or Std angle block planes.
    Use the fence Luke

  10. #10
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    Thanks to all for the feedback. It's true I can accomplish the cheek and dovetail trimming with my current 60 1/2 and shoulder plane, but I'd like a bit more heft. Also, I've got pretty big mitts and would like something easier to hold. The 60 1/2 gets lost in my hand.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    Thanks to all for the feedback. It's true I can accomplish the cheek and dovetail trimming with my current 60 1/2 and shoulder plane, but I'd like a bit more heft. Also, I've got pretty big mitts and would like something easier to hold. The 60 1/2 gets lost in my hand.
    You may want to try a 65. They are a bit bigger than the 60-1/2.

    jim

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