Large chamfer bit in handheld router?

[Kevin Ladenheim]

Hello,

I'd like to use a bit to make a chamfer where the width of the chamfer is roughly 1". The bits that do this are about 2" in diameter and seem to come with a bearing.

Amana 49404, Whiteside 42306 and Grizzly C1135
are bits in this range.

I assume the bearing means these can reasonably be used handheld with multiple passes. Would three
passes be reasonable?

Thanks

[scott spencer]

Hi Kevin - Multiple passes should work, though I think you'll have to let the feel of the cut tell you how many passes. I've got a nice big Infinity chamfer bit that I like.

[Dick Rowe]

Multiple passes are one key, and I would dial down the router speed as well with a bit that big.

[Peter Quinn]

Yup, multiple passes, turn down the speed, and I like to use a large off set base, because you don't want any tipping with a bit that large free hand. I made one out of two pieces of 3/4" BB with a handle on the stock side. Much easier to control a big router with a big bit when its in a big base, or more of the base is on the wood than off.

[Joe Scharle]

I'd like to add, that if you've never done something like this before, to practice on a cheap 2X4 some until you get comfortable on the router/bit/base feel.

[Chuck Tringo]

Well, why are you using in a hand held router, is the piece too large for a router table or do you not have a router table, also do you have a table saw or EZ smart ? If so, instead of multiple passes, why not hog off most of the waste with your table saw or EZ Smart set at the angle of the chamfer, then rout the final pass, will save a lot of time as well abuse on the router bit, which only has 2 or 3 blades as opposed to 20-50 on the saw.

[Kevin Ladenheim]

Thanks for all the advice.

I'm routing some work in place where I can't
remove it to do it another way. I wish I could.

I think Roy Underhill could just do it with a chisel,
think I can hire him?

[Steve Flavin001]

Chamfer Router Bits re 49404

"2 Flute
Chamfer or bevel edges for decorative effect or to form edge miter joints. Produce crisp, uniform edges at accurate angles to make 4-, 6-, 8-, 12-, or 16-sided boxes. For best results use in a router table!" pasted from the catalog, emphasis added.

Bits that big are too much for hand held work as a general rule.

[Doug Shepard]

Is the work straight or curved? Any way to saw the bulk of it off first with a CS and straightedge guide? You could either still use the router for final cleanup on a very small amount with less chance for tearout or grabbing, or just clean up with a block plane.

[David DeCristoforo]

Your router is likely to make you feel like you are holding on to a gyroscope with a bit that big. So a firm grip is a must. Also, make sure the collet is tight and that the motor is locked down securely in the base. Three passes may not be enough. It might take five or six. Depends on the wood, how hard it is and how "splintery" it is. You will know after the first pass. More passes + patience + slow feed / 1 or 2 practice cuts = good results.

[Kevin Ladenheim]

It's a straight run of under 24". I have a Bosch 1613 plunge router which has a low speed of 11000 rpm.
The 1613 also has two big handles, I wouldn't want to try this with a router where you just grip the housing.

I'm happy to do 24 passes and only cut 1/32nd at a time
if that is what will make the operation safe. I think between the depth stop and the micro adjust I could actually do 24 roughly equal passes.

I've decided on the Whiteside 2310, which is bigger than I need but might prove useful in the future. I didn't find any cheap bits big enough but if I had I would have worried about balance.

Once I get the bit I'll practice on some scrap first.

[Steven Wilson]

Mark off the chamfer with a pencil and use a handplane. This isn't a very safe operation to do with a hand held router. A scrub plane (or handsaw) to get rid of the bulk of the wood followed by a #6 will leave you with a nice chamfer - it's pretty quick too.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I think Roy Underhill could just do it with a chisel

I think I saw that show. He used his teeth and a thumbnail. he sanded it with his stubble beard and finished it with ear wax.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Others here have made good suggestions as to preliminary stock removal and multiple passes. I would just add that if possible route with the grain to help avoid tearout. (It seems to work out for me that 90% of the time I can't. )

[john bateman]

It's a straight run of under 24". I have a Bosch 1613 plunge router which has a low speed of 11000 rpm.
The 1613 also has two big handles, I wouldn't want to try this with a router where you just grip the housing.
I'm happy to do 24 passes and only cut 1/32nd at a time
if that is what will make the operation safe. I think between the depth stop and the micro adjust I could actually do 24 roughly equal passes.

I've decided on the Whiteside 2310, which is bigger than I need but might prove useful in the future. I didn't find any cheap bits big enough but if I had I would have worried about balance.

Once I get the bit I'll practice on some scrap first.

MLCS has a big one they're clearing out for cheap. I bought one and it seems adequate. About halfway down on this page:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...e/bargain3.htm