Machining wood to a desired thickness question.

[Raymond Fries]

I currently am in need of machinery to thickness wood.

I have a smaller shop and I am not in a production environment so I do not mind a little extra time in the labor processes.

I am looking at either the DW 735 or Delta 22-580 planer and if I get a drum sander, I am looking at the Jet 16" - 32" model.

After much thought, I am wondering if I really need both. If the planers do such a nice job, do I really need a drum sander. I have read that when the blades become slightly dull that lines appear in the wood. Is it unrealistic to just use my PC ROS to remove the lines for a really smooth finish?

Am I missing something? Do I really need both machines?

Thanks for any help or direction.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a good drum sander for convenience, and it is convenient, but not essential for most of what I do. Minimum safe thickness on a planer is around 1/4" give or take. Much below that and you stand a good chance of getting hurt or damaging the machine when the force of the high speed cutter blows the thin wood apart. Its also easier to make VERY PRECISE thickness changes on a drum sander for splines and loose tennons that are possible but easier to screw up on a planer with coarse height adjustment. You could get a digital height adjustment or just run a lot of test pieces and use calipers to over come this issue.

Soooo, if you regularly make your own veneer or other very thin goods a drum sander is very valuable. If you were running a production shop a good sander (drum or wide belt) cuts down on sanding time and adds to profit. If these things don't describe you than I'd say a drum sander is a convenience more than a requirement.

If your planner is making marks from nicks in the knives so bad that they can't be sanded out with a ROS its time to change the knives anyway. I keep a wire brush handy and carefully inspect all lumber before it enters my planner, but its still not 100%. Small bits of debris nick the knives,which cause lines. Dull knives don't make lines, they just struggle and leave an overall poor surface quality. You can shift the knives on most planers enough to overcome small nicks, deep nicks require a knife change or more sanding time.

[Gary Herrmann]

I used to have a Dewalt 735. I was very happy with it, and could get exactly the thickness desired. Depending on the species of wood, you may have to sand afterwards. I did not always have to.

[glenn bradley]

I have the DW734 and it has been great for me. Lowes has them on sale right now. Dad has the DW735 and it is nice also but a bit more money. A drum sander would be nice but I wouldn't use it as a thicknesser.

[Steve Flavin001]

the DW! Check the specs of both and particularly the knives - the speed of cutting RPM, feet/minute and the thickness of the knives.

The planer is rated at down to 1/8" - critical issue that I see in the other norte is to be suyre to take small cuts 1/4 to 1/8 turn in finishing.

In my opinion, the planer is indispensable - the sander is nice but not first consideration - DO NOT plan on using a sander for thickness planing. It will also cut out and shut down if you try too much.

[John Keeton]

I use a scraper as much as possible to "clean up" my stock after I get the various pieces cut to size. Much better than sanding. Quicker, less dust, and better finish. Obviously, some sanding is required, but it can be minimized. I don't have a drum sander, and although I am sure they are convenient, I don't think I could say that I miss having one.

[Alan Schwabacher]

I have and am happy with the Delta 22-580, but there are several good lunchbox planers. Knowing where there is a shop with a large wide belt sander could be useful occasionally, but I think you'd have to be a pro to need one. I wouldn't consider a drum sander unless you usually work with wood that tends to tear out, like birdseye maple. A card scraper can be faster than a ROS to get rid of lines from nicked knives, and either is likely adequate.

[Raymond Fries]

It looks like I will be getting a planer and not a drum sander. I also think I should get out the Lie Nielson scraper I bought and have not used yet and start shaving.

[Bruce Glazier]

I have a Grizzly drum sander and use it on practically every project I do. I do have a planner but use it less. The sander will sand to an exact thickness. It is much better on thinner boards.

[Scott Conners]

The DW 735 is a great little machine, I really enjoyed working with it. Easy to setup and work with. Shavings like you wouldn't believe!

[Charles Lent]

A good planner is the tool that you need first. With a ROS or a scraper you can easily clean up the surface of the wood to make it ready for use. A drum sander is nice, but not necessary for most work and definitely not needed in a small shop. I have a DW735 and find that it does a better job than any other planner that I've ever own or seen for small jobs. If you get one, make sure you either have a good vacuum system or buy the chip collector hose assembly, or else plan on using it only outdoors. Don't try to use it in your shop without some type of chip collection system attached because it will blow chips everywhere.

Charley