New member needs TS advice

[Jerry Bruette]

Purchased used contractor tablesaw....no blade guard or splitter though. Would it be sufficiently safe to go with an MJ splitter and a featherboard or should I bite the bullet and buy the guide/splitter for the saw?

If the featherboard is sufficient what brand is recommended, also looking for a miter gauge that won't break the bank...lots to choose from and this is my first go at this type of stuff.

Thanks in advance
Jerry

[James G. Jones]

Jerry,
I have a blade guard and (i think) the splitter from a Delta contractor's saw. If you're interested, send me a PM. I'm not using them, so you're welcome to them.

James

[Chris Kennedy]

Jerry,

I have a splitter/guard assembly for a Craftsman zip code saw. If your contractor is a Craftsman, it might fit (and it might not, knowing Craftsman).

More to the point, I have the miter gauge for that saw. If you look at

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922124000P

there is a picture. If you want it, you are welcome to it. It fits a standard miter slot. I drilled off the washer for the t-slot, but otherwise it is in good shape. I have the extrusion fence and the stop block (. . . somewhere) and the clamp. It's yours if you want it -- send me a PM. (Just for the record, I wanted a miter gauge with a longer fence that was better capable of handling longer stock -- the miter gauge is pretty good for one that comes with a saw).

As for the MJ splitter -- it is probably better than most splitters that come with a saw. I have been the proud owner of one for three days. I'll let you know more when I get it installed (hopefully tomorrow). The one thing -- it doesn't have anti-kickback pawls, so if you are going that route, be careful. One of the first times I took the blade guard/splitter assembly off the saw, the LOML was using the saw while I was working on something else in the shop. The saw threw the offcut and I took it to the chest. It was an . . . experience.

Cheers,

Chris

[Tom Marchner]

Remember that you can use featherboards in many cases regardless of what kind of splitter and blade guard you use. They can make ripping safer and they make it easier to make a perfectly straight cut. They are easy to make--I've always made my own, for both horizontal and vertical use. If you search around the web you can find some good simple designs.

Be very serious about the danger of kickback. Assume that every piece of work (including the offcut) will come shooting back at you unless you prevent it. Read about how to prevent it and take all the precautions.

[Norman Pyles]

Welcome to the forum. I am using the MJ pro and a PSI dust guard. I only bought the plastic dust guard, and built all the rest of the overhead hookup. While feather boards have their uses, replacing the splitter is not one of them. Also I would check out the Sharkguard, which may be one of the best on the market. Lots of options out there, if you don't take James generous offer.

[scott spencer]

You might be able to find a used splitter/guard for that saw on EB. What brand and model is the saw?

The Incra V27 is an excellent miter gauge for < $60. Add a shopmade fence and you're good to go.

[Clifford Mescher]

Two feather boards and splitter will practically eliminate most kickbacks. One FB to keep against fence. One FB to keep board flat on table, One splitter to keep kerf from closing, works for me. Clifford

[Duncan Potter]

Making your featherboards is the cheapest way to go. I do like the magnetic ones though, very convenient and adaptable!

[Michael McCoy]

Another Sharkguard user. I took the stock guard off my contractor saw the day I got the saw and switched to a Beismeyer splitter. I just got my Sharkguard last week and it is a pleasure to use.

[Gary Muto]

I have a delta cabinet saw and have used the MJ splitter for 2 years since I almost always use a ZCI plate. A lot of people complain that they are plastic, but mine is working great.

[Jerry Bruette]

Thanks for all the great advice, and ideas.
And a special thanks for the generous offers

Jerry

[Chris Kennedy]

Here's my miter gauge after it was cleaned up.

miter1.jpg

miter02.jpg

As I mentioned, I drilled out the washer for the t-track to use it on router table that didn't have a t-track. If you want that feature, it should be about 50 cents of hardware. Also, as I alluded earlier in the thread, there is a stop block for it, but I cannot find it at the moment, so I don't promise it.

Cheers,

Chris

[Peter Quinn]

Most stock guards are hardly what I'd consider a safety feature. I'd skip it. And if a splitter takes longer than 5 seconds to remove/replace it is not well designed. The stock guard/splitter on my cabinet saw took about 25 painful minutes to exchange on each end. I did this only once before storing it carefully in the bowls of my shop. Should I ever sell the machine I may offer it to the buyer.

Feather boards are great for accurate cuts. I make my own using scraps and hold them down with clamps on the fence (I have a very tall fence) or little Rouseau bolts that lock in the left miter slot. A magswitch feather board looks cool if you want to spend big.

I have a biesmeyer splitter on my saw now that works great. Don't know if they fit contractor saws or not? I have seen guys fabricate their own with excellent results for little money.