Preference: Sliding Compound Saw vs. Chop Saw

[John Thompson]

I had a Hitachi 10" SCMS and sold it to get a Hitachi 12 SCMS. The newer 12" Hitachi does take up less space the way they made the sliding bars partially in the machine. I also ran into many occsions I needed a 4" depth of cut instead of 3". I sold a CMS to get the first Hitachi SCMS and for me that was a brillant move.

The reason is I do all cross-cutting on a SCMS up to 16'. I built a mobile base cabinet and added the top of a Wolfcraft portable miter stand to the top of the cabinet. Closed it takes 4' from side to side. When I extend it I can cross-cut up to 16' with a 4" depth. I can also cross-cut up to 24" wide by flipping a panel over.

My SCMS does every task from sizing down rough or S2 lumber coming in the shop from the supplier to the delicate finish cross-cuts. So.. for me the decision would be a no brainer (and I said for me) as the newer style Hitachi sliding bars take up not very much more room than a standard CMS.

Would I trade up to a Kapex and pay the difference? ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha.. Does that answer that question?

Sarge..

[Don Brubaker]

I wouldn't rush into buying a Festool Kapex at the moment ... there is a lot of unhappiness in their forums about problems with this tool.

Not to mention the ridiculous price!

[Don Brubaker]

Since your not comfortable with a radial arm saw (bad ones, verses comfort level and experience), you have limited room (and no budget for Kapex, or? Hitachi), your already aiming yourself toward a Dual CMS.

Sounds like you need a PUSH to build some table saw sleds, for your wider boards.

Don't need a push on the table saw sleds ....... discovered them and using more and more, but just can't see not having a miter saw. I would love to match Norm's miter saw station someday!

[Don Brubaker]

I work in a cabinet shop which has no SCMS, just a 12" Makita CMS. Of course there is an 11' panel saw with a 14" blade about 10 feet from the chop saw, but still we get by without a SCMS!

Seriously, it depends on how you like to work, what you make mostly, and what other methods you have available. No reason you must have a slider except as determined by you.

Oh, about that RAS is death trap comment. Shame on you for displaying your ignorance with such bravado. There are many machines that bare the monicker RAS which would function better as boat anchors, but there is nothing implicitly more dangerous about a GOOD WELL TUNED QUALITY RAS than any other wood cutting machine.

It will cost you several thousand dollars to get a RAS as good as mine today, and for most that is simply not worth it. I got mine free, so it was worth it to me. Also it helps to know how to use one, and that is more difficult information to acquire these days too. I wouldn't recommend a RAS in this day and age for home use as a necessity, but it would be hard for me to work w/o mine, and no SCMS or chop box can do what my RAS can. It's like comparing apples to Sherman Tanks.

I'm going to disagree with you on the "non-death trapedness" of RAS's ....... experienced, heard stories, seen people's results ...... I would argue that there just really is no need for an RAS that any other machine couldn't do better ..... and safer.
This really is a been there done that. While we all have our favorites, I would find this one hard for anyone to realistically claim.

[Cary Swoveland]

I have a 12" Dewalt CMS that generally meets my needs. I got it about three years ago. It's up against a wall, so my choices were limited. I did consider an Hitachi slider (at the time, the only slider that would work against a wall) , but went with a 12" CMS, and chose a Dewalt. There are a couple of situations where I wish I had a slider instead. Obviously, one is when I'd like to cut a board that's a bit too wide for the CMS. Secondly, it can take awhile to cut through a wide, dense hardwood. I assume that's because so many carbide tips are in contact with the wood at the same time. Considering how much faster it would be cross-cut the same board on my table saw, I'm guessing it also would be faster with a slider. Can anyone confirm or contest that?

Cary

[Cary Swoveland]

...If you get a chop saw, consider these factors:

• one that tilts both left and right, and
• one with a belt or angled drive to get the motor out of the way for greater depth of cut

I agree with Wayne on this, and would point out that these two attributes come as a package: the only reason manufacturers incur the added expense of moving the motor up and back, and adding gears or belts and pulleys, is to allow bevels to be done both ways. Even if you have no plans to make use of the double-bevel feature, it's nice to have the motor up and out of the way. Visibility is better and it may be a little quieter.

Cary

[Mike Heidrick]

I have been cutting treated 2X6s on a Hitachi C12LSH this week for a picnic table. It is a great saw. Keep an eye out on amazon - occassionally they go for $450-$490. Shipping a heavy SCMS (Hitachi does not pack these well - just some carboard supports in a double walled carboard box) is a gamble but worth it. I saw it for $679 at lowes.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I tried that swap back to a CMS...lasted four weeks. I couldn't give up the versatility.

[Narayan Nayar]

I have to say--I had that Hitachi 12" SCMS and I really didn't like it. Returned it in 3 days. It's probably great for construction but has too much play for any kind of furnituremaking.

Before the Hitachi I had a 10" Dewalt CMS. After the Hitachi, I went with a Makita 10" SCMS. The Makita is a great saw.

I recently got a Kapex, though, so the Makita will soon be up for sale.

[John Thompson]

"I have to say--I had that Hitachi 12" SCMS and I really didn't like it. Returned it in 3 days. It's probably great for construction but has too much play for any kind of furnituremaking".. Narayan N.

***

I and a few others will probably dis-agree, Narayan. I have been using Hitachi to do all cross-cutting and angles in my shop for 6 years. I'm in the shop around 6-10 hours a day building furniture (I don't do construction) and have had no issues with play or anything else really.

Sorry you got one with play that couldn't be adjusted as it's a geat saw just like the Makita IMO as I have used them also.

Regards...

Sarge..

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I have the Hitatchi 10" slider right now and it's the best slider I have ever owned including Delta, DW & the Makita. Sounds like you got a Friday build....it can happen to any maker. There's no slop in mine and it has a much better miter detent system than the Makita.

[Narayan Nayar]

I'm fairly sure many will disagree with my statement--a lot of people have and like the Hitachi. I didn't find it satisfactory, but I did like (and considered) the 10" Hitachi.

For me the 12" Hitachi required me to be too mindful of how much lateral pressure I was putting on the rails. Even a minimal amount would cause some flex and on the one project I did with it, I couldn't trust it.

But to each their own.

[Chuck Tringo]

I had a cheapo GMC 10 inch slider that I donated to Habitat for humanity...it was ok for construction grade, but the fence was bent and I could never get it square. I now have a 12 inch hitachi non slider and I like it alot. I am looking hard at the new Milwaukee 12 inch slider, but want to hear/see some more reviews before I spend that much, particularly in the Dust Collection area when connected to a Vac.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Can't blame you for that....side pressure slop can kill a cut.

I sure did gander at that new Milwaukee too. Even though I don't care for the parent company, that's a nice saw...light years ahead of the other slider they sell.