Glue for tubes???

[Joe Suelter]

What glue do the majority of you use for your tubes? I bought some CA glue yesterday (thick), and have lost 4 blanks due to glue failure, maybe. As I got down to the bushings, the wood would come apart. Then I really loaded it on, and then started having success. However, I've gone through 1/4 bottle of glue, and have 3 pens to show for it. That's pretty costly. I've heard some people say they use Gorilla, but that's just as expensive. But, if it is more efficient, I'll start using it instead. So, just take a few moments to post the type of glue you use and maybe why, I'd appreciate it. I think I've found myself a new passion!!!

[Larry Gottlieb]

Hi Joe:
I use polyurethane glue (Gorilla brand) You can glue a lot of tubes with a small bottle and I would be surprised if it costs you more than 2-3 cents per pen.
Although you can find many people who advocate CA, or epoxy, or polyurethane, I believe that more people are using polyurethane.

Larry

[Kurt Aebi]

I too use Gorilla brand Polyurethane Glue and I have not had an issue with the glue holding. You don't have to use very much, so I think it will probably cost you less than you think and the "open" life is far greater for the Poly glue than CA, so I can assure you the overall cost will be less.

The only failures I've experienced have been from the wood itself and (1) twist mechanism that I pressed in too far and wrecked it trying to remove it.

Besides these problems, isn't it fun to turn these pens and experiment with different designs!

[Harry Pye]

I've been using PU for all my pens even Corian. It foams up and fills all the gaps and it is a little bit spongy. I think that helps take up the shock of the wook expanding and contracting with weather changes.

There are other brands other than Gorilla glue that are about half the cost. Titebond for sure (I just checked) and maybe Elmer's. I'd buy it in the smaller sizes since the bottles get all gooped up.

Also, regardless of which glue you use, don't forget to roughen the brass tubes. Coarse, 60 or 80 grit, sandpaper works well.

Harry

[Dennis Peacock]

I use poly glue primarily...Gorilla brand at first and now Elmers brand due to cheaper price of the glue. I have experienced NO failures with poly glue.

I have used medium and thick CA glue and you can expect a few failure with CA glue if you don't have enough coverage in the blank to cover all the surfaces. The best way is to use Poly Glue...........

[Terry Quiram]

5 minute epoxy, let dry overnight. If I ruin one it won't be because the glue let go.

Terry

[Jim Baker]

I use Gorilla glue and let them sit at least 24 hours before turning. I usually end up with the sticky stuff all over everything, but it seems to do a good job for me.

[John M. Cioffi]

Joe,

I can't help wandering about all this problem with CA glue.
I've used nothing but CA & I NEVER had any problems with glue failure. I use the thick CA & coat it in a spiral, in my hand & insert it into the wood, in a spiral & it coats everything. I also use the tapered top of the cap as an insertion tool & it puts the tube just under the edge of the wood.That way, there is not much to trim off.
One point of causion; the wood needs to be cold when inserting the tube. After drilling the wood, let it sit a bit.I usually take this time to sand the tube, like a plumber does to the pipe before joining them.Emery cloth works well.If the wood is hot - then the tube will freeze,instantly.

Hope this helps.

[Joe Suelter]

Well, I must be doing something wrong then, John. I've lost about 7 tubes so far using CA glue. Glued up about 20 blanks last night using Gorilla, let thm dry overnight, and turned ALL of them tonight without a single problem. Perhaps it's my technique, not sure, but one thing I can tell you, my nose appreciates the change! CA glue drives my nose crazy! Even with fans and the window open, with my mask on, it feels like my nose is on fire! Therefore, the glue for me from now on is going to be poly...whichever brand is on sale!!

Just for the record, after examining the blanks that failed, there hardly appeared to be any glue on the tube...and I really lubed them up good after the first couple blowouts. It seems to me that the majority of the CA was at the end that didn't come apart. Any reason for this? I made sure to twist as I inserted the tube, and also went in a spiral form up and down the tube.

[Rick Prevett]

Joe, even though you've changed to PU, you still asked a question about CA application, so here's what I do.

Using thick CA, lay out three spaced beads around the bottom half of the tube. Using a twisting motion, insert the tube about 3/4 of the way into the blank. Work the glue around a bit (twist and plunge), then remove the tube. Insert the tube into the other end of the blank, using the same technique, then set it to it final position with your insertion tool of choice.

It's been mentioned before that even though CA sets up quickly, you should let it cure. I usually let my blanks sit overnight. Wasn't intentional, that's just the way it works out for me.

I've only lost one blank (out of about 50 pens) this way, and that was a very punky piece of spalted maple that I was experimenting on anyway.

Hope this help anyone who may be considering using CA.

rick
/who now uses both CA and PU, just because.

[RL Johnson]

Joe
One additional thing I do when gluing with CA is to use the thin stuff down the dilled hole before inserting the tubes with the thick stuff. Also what brand are you using? Not all CA is equal, I use Hot Stuff and really like it. I might also add that I only use CA on the 7 mm tubes, anything bigger and I go to Gorilla glue.

[Joe Suelter]

I have Hot Stuff (thick) as well. I'm not saying CA is horrible, but I have had MUCH better luck with the Gorilla glue so far. Especially for beginners (pen-turning anyways), I think that the poly-glue is a litte more "user friendly". Cleaning up all the foamy mess takes a little longer, and a barrell trimmer is a must for getting the gunk out of the tubes, but I think the results are a little better...I actually took a tube all the way down until the wood was no more, and analyzed it next to a failed CA glued tube....I found that the poly was pretty consistent through-out the tube, while the CA was primarily at one end. Rick's idea above would probably solve that problem though.

[Larry Gottlieb]

Hi Joe:

To keep "gunk" out of the tubes use a slice of raw potatoe and press a plug into each end of the brass tube. Coat the tubes as usual and push into blank. After the PU has dried you can push out the plugs with a 1/4'' rod (or bolt)
You can also use a slice of glycerine soap or playdough to plug the tubes.

I am preparing 80 blanks for a turnathon and plugging both ends of the tubes has really made life easier. Almost no clean-up of the tubes.

Larry

[Charles L. Augustyn]

CA glue has a problem as temperatures increase over 125 F. Iraq's temperatures soar and an air temperature of 125 F is easy. Radiant temperatures on vehicles surfaces are high enough to fry eggs.
Best glue is PU.
Chrone finishes on pens reflect light. Not good for tactical environment.
Plus 1st SGTs DO NOT like seeing pen clips. Black enamel is best.

[Joe Suelter]

Ya know, I thought about those things...pen clip, chrome and shiny pen tips. I'm sure the soldiers are smart enough though to keep themselves hidden from enimies..perhaps keeping the pen in a ditty-bag, or inner shirt pocket. I doubt very much that they are parading around Iraq with it in their jacket pocket, visible to everyone. Besides, I like to think that these pens are a keepsake for them, not a mere writing instrument, therefore, maybe they're storing it away to keep it clean and nice for their return trip home. Never the less, good points.