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Thread: shaper vs router..

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    170

    Question shaper vs router..

    ...of which I only have a shaper(Grizzly 1035)...gave my router to my SIL... (hardly used it anyway)
    I'm doing a half-round hallway table w/ Leopardwood top. I wanna put an 1/2" round edge on the top(same edge thats on a drop leaf), but after using scraps from the top, I'm not suer I wanna risk it freehand. the wood machines well enough, but getting it perfect start-finish is another thing. I have limited practice doing freehand on the shaper, and don't wanna waste this top.. I'm askin' if getting a router(which I really need anyway)and doing the edge that way is less risky( altho I have more time put in on a shaper than with a router...)... too close to bein' done to have to glue up another high dollar top if I mess this one up....
    what say ye, Men?
    Give an honest days work for an honest days pay

  2. #2
    I suggest the router.

    Too many variables in free handing that kind of work on a shaper.

    I leave the shaper for the bigger jobs


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Roseville, MN
    Posts
    349
    I would be safe and use the get a router lacewood is too exp. to waste.
    (P.S.-my 100th post!)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    mid minnesota
    Posts
    66
    Get a router and do climb cuts, no danger of chipping out then. Practice on some scrap first. Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    West Virginia
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    170
    ..thanks fellows...
    Give an honest days work for an honest days pay

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,582

    Another consideration

    If you can do this in multiple passes, that's how I would do it. Take a light pass the first time around which may help with tearout, more the second time around and make the last pass light and perhaps climb cut as mentioned. If there's a problem with your technique, you have a chance to make your problem disappear with the next pass.

    HTH

    Curt

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,178
    Butch,

    For curved work on the shaper I've used a curved fence to match, made out of scrap ply or mdf or whatever; it can be the same thickness as your work since you'll be running it flat on the shaper table.

    Safe and effective.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Drew View Post
    Butch,

    For curved work on the shaper I've used a curved fence to match, made out of scrap ply or mdf or whatever; it can be the same thickness as your work since you'll be running it flat on the shaper table.

    Safe and effective.
    wow...I never thought of that... excellent idea, and I'll see what i can rig up!! Thanks
    Give an honest days work for an honest days pay

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dawson Creek, BC
    Posts
    1,033
    How big is the table top? Personally, if you have a proper vertical hold down and a shaper hood for doing curved work I think it will do a better job. Aigner makes the Bowmold hood for curved work and there are others on the market. By hold down I mean something along the lines of a magnetic device or one like Aigner makes. The hold down cannot jiggle or flex. If it does your cut will not be any good. The advantage of the shaper is it is heavy, does not move and with a proper hold down you do not have the same risks as with a hand held router. Try it on a similarly sized scrap first. I wouldnt think twice about using the shaper.

    Brad

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