Removing tenon

[John Frigillana]

How would this HF be mounted to remove the tenon. The hole is 1".

[Ron McKinley]

This started out as the Kirsten Cone, invented by a San Diego woodturner, but Don Pencil may have bought the rights to manufacture and sell it.

http://donpencil.com/

Click on Jamb Chucks.........Ron

[curtis rosche]

i would say that if you have a vacuum chuck and there are no holes in the peice you could use that, just make sure it fits over the opening. if not, you could take the chuck and switch the jaws so that the jaws hold by pushing out, chuck them into the HF opening, but remember, you dont need to make it very tight. when you put the jaws in put some double sided tape so they stick to the wood.
then mount on the lathe, make sure you use the vessel/bowl steady rest, if you put it more towards the tenon it should steady it and keep the vessel on. then just turn away the tenon using light cuts

[John Frigillana]

The chusk I'm using is a Super Nove 2 and a Pinnacle Chuck. I don't have a pin chuck, so it does'nt fit into the 1" opening.

[Matt Hutchinson]

I think you might be able to chuck up a piece of wood, make it into a cone, cover it in padding, then just mount the hollow form between centers. Put the opening over the padded cone, and bring up the tailstock and center it on the tenon. Carefully, with a sharp tool, take off the foot, leaving a little stub where the tailstock is supporting the piece. Sand while still on the lathe. Remove the hollow form and chisel off the stub, sand, and finish the bottom.

This is how many people finish the feet of their bowls. Most try to plan ahead for this my cutting a dimple centered in the tenon for accurate remounting. If you didn't do this you may have to use trial and error, and I think you will be able to get it fairly well centered.

Good Luck!

Hutch

P.S. Leo beat me to it!

[Jason Whelehon]

You turners... not EVERYTHING HAS to be done on a lathe

Use a good quality Japanese pull saw then lap the bottom on your table saw or something flat using progressively higher grit paper. To get the bowl to sit on a rim foot use a sanding pad on your DP or just leave it be.

[Jim Underwood]

You turners... not EVERYTHING HAS to be done on a lathe

Use a good quality Japanese pull saw then lap the bottom on your table saw or something flat using progressively higher grit paper. To get the bowl to sit on a rim foot use a sanding pad on your DP or just leave it be.

HisssSSssssssss!

Blasphemy!



Seriously it's actually a lot easier to do on the lathe with a makeshift jam chuck as most of the guys have mentioned, than to master a pullsaw on a round object that keeps on wanting to wobble as you cut it. And then you still have to undercut the bottom somehow so that it will sit flat on the table.

Easier to do it on the lathe.

And that's why our tablesaws and jointers are covered with turning paraphernalia. Turning is easier and faster than most other woodworking.

So we're lazy like that. We like having fun.

[Jim Becker]

And Jason, very often when removing the tenon, some further shaping and refinement of the form is done. Ya can't do that with the saw!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I take the tenon off using a donut chuck. If you leave the tailstock mark on it, it is very simple to put in the chuck with it centered and take the tenon off. Easier than a jam chuck.

Why use a Japanese saw and then fool around with sandpaper. It is much easier with a jam chuck or a donut chuck. Jim is right. It just takes a few minutes to turn it off and sand. I also like to make my bottom concaved so it will sit with no wobble.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I would turn a block with a tenon on it that fits the opening from a piece of scrap, then I'd stick some masking tape over the tenon so the HF fits tight on the tenon, then use the tailstock to hold the HF and carefully cut the tenon on the HF smaller till there's only a small stub left, kind of like this )<l, that can then be cutoff with a knife and sanded smooth.

[Steve Schlumpf]

For total access to the foot (without using a vacuum system) I would suggest a donut chuck.

[Neal Addy]

A scroll chuck with #1 spigot jaws and lots of painter's tape.

Don't laugh... it works!

[Jim Becker]

You can make a simple jam chuck by putting a piece of scrap in a chuck or on a faceplate and turning a stub tenon that just fits in your opening with a layer of soft paper towel as a cushion. Then put the piece between centers so you can turn off the bottom...you can take off almost all the tenon, leaving only a tiny nub that can be removed with a sharp blade after you unmount it. Or you can take it all the way with a modified small spindle gouge a la David Ellsworth, slowing the lathe right before it goes through and using one hand to keep the piece from flying away. That latter method requires a fully variable machine that can go down to very, very low RPM.

[robert hainstock]

I too would make a slightly tapered tenon and reverse chuck it. Then I would reduce the size of the tenon as much as I could with the bowl gauge and would then use a very sharp skinny blade from the carving set to break through.
Goodluck!
Bob

[Dale Miner]

The method I use;

Chuck a piece of scrap that is slightly larger square than the diameter of the opening in the hollow form (HF), and also slightly longer than the HF is deep (tall).

Using the tailstock for support, turn the piece round and reduce the diameter to just under the diameter of the HF opening. The length that is turned round must be slightly longer than the HF is deep. Pulling the tailstock to check helps with the above.

The piece will now be a long, slender friction chuck that will go inside the HF, and allow the HF to be clamped between the end of the friction chuck and the tailstock.

Once the piece is turned as above, a wrap or two of tape where the opening of the HF will be when clamped in place will make the HF fit snug to the friction chuck.

The foot of the HF can now be turned as if reverse mounting a bowl. The advantage of this method is that it provides two places of support for the HF, and reduces the likelyhood of the HF getting loose if and or when the last bit of the nub is cut loose. Also, if there are voids or other weak or thin spots in the HF, it does not put a clamping pressure on the walls of the HF.

Later,

Dale M