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Thread: Wood vs Plywood Strength

  1. #1

    Wood vs Plywood Strength

    Ok, so i screwed up i used poplar for slats for my bed and they are super flexible. It would be fine if it was a normal bed frame but it is a platform bed. I was wondering if i use slats of 3/4 ply would it be a lot stronger and less flexible, i mean they wont be seen anyway. Is ply really that much stronger? and will it flex a lot less?
    thanks

  2. #2
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    it all depends on how it is used... sometimes ply can be just as strong as solidwood, sometimes it can be just as floppy and have just as much give as mdf.. baltic birch vs regular birch ply, lots of variables. In a bed I would want to be going with a solid wood design. If you're on a budget poplar is the way to go, just go thicker, but for me I'de atleast go for soft maple.

  3. #3
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    One way to make your poplar slats stiffer is to make them thicker. If you double the thickness, they'll be eight times stiffer. You could glue more poplar on to the existing slats.

  4. #4
    They are already 3/4 in thick, will it be a lot better if the boards are shorter. Currently they are length wise would it be alot better if they were width wise, they are 8" wide and there is a center beam so they are running 72" long or width wise it would only go 39". I cant really make them thicker as it is kind of set. Would alternating hard maple or some other stronger harder wood be better.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Benson View Post
    . . .Currently they are length wise would it be alot better if they were width wise, they are 8" wide and there is a center beam so they are running 72" long or width wise it would only go 39".
    If I understand what you are saying, then yes that's exactly the thing to do. The same board over a shorter distance will bend less. If you change from a 72" span to 39", much less. I've never seen bed slats go the long way.
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  6. #6
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    You can make only a little change in the stiffness by changing to a different species. Doug fir is among the stiffest of commonly-available species in the US, and it is only 25% stiffer. As I said before, a much better way is to make the slats thicker. You can get 25% more stiffness by increasing the thickness only 8%, and you can get 800% more stiffness by doubling the thickness.

  7. #7
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    Definitely going shorter lengths will help.
    If it still flexes, you can stiffen them by gluing a board perpendicular to it beneath it to form a T with the flat top of the T being on the top. Even a 2" board this way will make them much stiffer.

  8. #8
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    According to a reference on shelving, solid poplar, oak, etc., are all substantially stiffer than the equivalent thickness of plywood.

    If you can't go thicker, as many suggested, you can also add a lip below the edges as you often find with bookshelves, even if the lip stops an inch or so short of the ends.

  9. #9
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    This "Sagulator" may help. It's designed to calculate sag for a shelf, but should also work for bed slats.

    http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

  10. #10
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    Long before I was "into woodworking", I built a loft bed out of pine for an apartment. I used 1x (3/4") construction pine for the slats--running width-wise. Held my wife and I easily without noticeable sag. Poplar should be even a tad stronger. I definitely think that your problem is the length-wise run. Even oak or hickory would probably sag at those lengths with the weight of a person on them.
    Jason

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  11. #11
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    I had the same problem when making a bed....I just made a 3/4" dado in the bottom of the slats and glued and screwed in a 1 1/2" piece (making a T) it made the slats almost un saggable.

  12. #12
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    The slats that Ikea supplies are beach or something similar...a much denser wood than poplar. That said, no matter what the material, cross-wise is the way to go and with the center support. Or you could go "true platform" and just deck it with solid plywood. But be sure you're using a mattress that is designed for that kind of foundation...there are differences.
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  13. #13
    You can also add more 'beams' to distribute the load. Do you have enough clearance on the underside to be able to run 2x4 stock in between the midspan beam and the rails?

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    Definitely going shorter lengths will help.
    If it still flexes, you can stiffen them by gluing a board perpendicular to it beneath it to form a T with the flat top of the T being on the top. Even a 2" board this way will make them much stiffer.

    +1

    And making it an "I" would help even more, like small beams!

  15. forget the slats and use ply as a one piece sheet.

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