cabinet case construction

[Greg McCallister]

I did a search on the SMC for this question - great advice on materials and attaching the faces to the cases. This question was never actualy asked. How many of you use dados' in your case construction?
I have Udo Schmidts and Jim Toplins books and one demonstrates mostly biscuit joinery and the other uses mainly pocket screws.
I understand speed is why for both methods - but if you were to make cabinets for your own kitchen, what method of joinery would you use?
I have the tools to do all of the methods (yep undersized router bits too) so the tools are not an issue.
The cabinet cases will be made with with solid cabinet grade ply (no melamine or MDF) with solid maple faces and raised panel doors.
This is a big project for me and I always hate the "I should of did it this way instead" or the best is "I should of asked the guys a SMC".
Note: This is a small kitchen with roughly 4 base cabinets with as many uppers so its not like I am making a boat load.

[steve reeves]

I use pocket screws to assemble the face frames, biscuits to join the frame to the case, rabbets to join the sides and back of the case to the bottom and pocket screws everywhere else. Done properly the screws cannot be seen and are every bit as strong as any other jointing technique. About the only place I use a dado is on the drawer bottoms.

However, many of my customers are requesting framless construction now too... seems the wives like the extra access and larger drawers possible with framless construction.

[Larry Fox]

I did mine using pocket screws to assemble the face-frames. Carcases were done exactly as described in Schmidt's book. Biscuits used to align the face frames and pocket screws to attach. I used dados for the fixed shelves and made a jig to drill the holes for the adjustable ones.

[Peter Quinn]

At work (cabinet/millwork shop) all cases are joined with dados and screws. Easy alignment, very strong. Pretty quick too if you are organized and batch cut every thing. Face frames are attached with glue and clamps. PIA, but very strong. Backs are 1/2" material, screwed on, no rabbit, so you lose 1/2" of depth.

In my own small shop I use dados and screws to build carcasses, pocket screws to attach face frames. I use pre-finished plywood, and pre-finish the face frames prior to attachment, after a dry fit where I run most of the pocket screws in and out once, which makes alignment easier on final assemble. Quicker, requires less time and clamps, just as strong, add glue if you like.

I've seen biscuits or dowels used for frameless and face frame box construction, frankly I don't see them being any quicker on face frame cabinets over all, but they work about as well.

The BEST (or strongest) method I have seen for face frame attachment and case alignment was to run the vertical pieces on the carcass 3/16" proud of the horizontal members, dado the back of the face frames and glue them in. Not quick if your not set up for this, all alignment must start and stay very accurate, but very strong verging on over kill. I do use this method myself.

There are a lot of ways to get it done and you are unlikely to get a consensus on which method is best. Pick the combination you are most comfortable with and enjoy that new kitchen!

[Jeremy Thompson]

Question about the Dado and screws method for the top and bottom. What do you do for the cabinets that sit on the end of the row and show their sides - in regards to the screws. Do you not use screws for the ends or what exactly do you do?

I need to pick up Building Kitchen Cabinets. It's only $13 from Amazon. I'll do that today. I'd like to build some cabinets for my Kitchen someday. I think I understand everything but the end boxes.