Thanks to those who gave me a comfort level on my e-bay saw purchase. I lucked out and for my c-note (yes, overpaid I'm sure), received a full size Disston #12 rip saw (6 ppi?) 1896-1917. Under the rust was some buffer (grinder?) marks, but it shouldn't affect performance. The blade has been thoroughly cleaned and waxed; it is in fine shape! There is a deep wear mark where one's index finger lays along the handle... I wonder about the man whose sweat is soaked into the wood.
My saw files arrived today. It is with some trepidation that I approach tonight's sharpening attempt. I have Tom Law's DVD and have watched it several times; I also have also read through the vintagesaws.com website. My novice understanding is enough to realize that rip will be easier than a crosscut... but...
I can't help but feel I'm being a bit dense, but here is my question. After jointing, you "shape" the rip teeth - ensure an appropriate rake (8ish deg is my goal) and evenly sized teeth. This is accomplished by running the file perfectly perpendicular to the blade yet parallel to the floor. This cuts both the front of one tooth, and the back of a second.
The very next step is "filing" or the actual sharpening. Where a new file side is used in the exact same manner.... Which, unfortunately, doesn't make sense to me. If it were creating the "fleam" in a crosscut saw, yes, I get it - but not in a rip saw.
While an admitted novice, I'm very much hoping to have that 1st wispy plane shaving feeling very soon.... but with a nice old Disston saw.
Regards,
- John Dykes
Denver, CO