Waterlox on Waxed shellac?

[Craig Hemsath]

I know poly and waxed shellac don't play well together. Does this hold true for other varnishes like Waterlox? Or do I need to get some dewaxed flakes?

[Larry Fox]

I have never used waxed shellac but use a lot of dewaxed and have never had an issue with compatability. As I have always heard it - shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac. Why not just go with dewaxed and avoid any issues? Jeff Jewitt sells it in flakes through Homesteadfinishing and you can buy it in an array of "colors".

[Jim Becker]

Generally, waxy shellac is fine under non-poly varnishes.

I personally tend to do what Larry suggests and just use de-waxed shellac. Of course, there are some "colors" (grades) of shellac that are not available that way, although if you have the time, you can "de-wax" it via settling yourself.

[Craig Hemsath]

How would you go about 'de-waxing' it? I really like the color of the shellac I have.

[Prashun Patel]

I've used waxed shellac under Waterlox. Works fine. I use it because a) it's available locally at low cost and in small quantities, b) I like the amber color it comes in.

I've tried settling the wax out. It was hard and didn't work to my satisfaction. I had to let the bottle sit for a week, and then decanting was a pain. Possible? Probably. But IMHO definitely not worth the effort. Either use it waxed or BUY dewaxed.


Why (besides color) are you using it under Wlox anyway? It's possible you might be able to eliminate it altogether.

[Joe Cunningham]

How would you go about 'de-waxing' it? I really like the color of the shellac I have.

Thin it to about a 2lb cut (most come as 3lb cut), and let it sit for a few nights to a week (maybe more or less).

The whitish layer at the bottom is all the wax settling out. Carefully pour off the upper layer and you have (mostly) dewaxed shellac.

I've used both dewaxed flakes and store bought shellac. The flakes are so superior I don't even bother with the store bought anymore.

[Craig Hemsath]

I've used waxed shellac under Waterlox. Works fine. I use it because a) it's available locally at low cost and in small quantities, b) I like the amber color it comes in.

I've tried settling the wax out. It was hard and didn't work to my satisfaction. I had to let the bottle sit for a week, and then decanting was a pain. Possible? Probably. But IMHO definitely not worth the effort. Either use it waxed or BUY dewaxed.


Why (besides color) are you using it under Wlox anyway? It's possible you might be able to eliminate it altogether.

Mainly for the color (trying to please the wife) and that's what I have. I could try to find a substitute

[Prashun Patel]

I wasn't trying to discourage you. I personally LOVE the look that amber shellac gives; i think it really warms things up.

[Howard Acheson]

Waterlox Original is fine on top of wax containing shellac. Just don't use the Waterlox Poly varnish. It's only oil based poly varnish and any waterborne finish that required dewaxed shellac.

[Craig Hemsath]

Thanks Howard, it's the original Waterlox. I may try decanting the shellac and using that.

[Joe Fusco]

If you want to de-wax your shellac it will look like this when ready. . .




But there really is no need to, waxy shellac is simply the best to do anything with regards what anyone may say

[Joni Palashewski]

Yikes, I just saw this statement, and hope you pros tell me it's not necessary!!
"paintsource.net/Waterlox Original Satin Finish contains flattening agent therefore, stirring and straining (through a mesh strainer lined with 1-ply Kleenex) is required before use and continuous stirring is required during application. http://www.paintsource.net/pages/products/waterlox/satin_interior.htm

I like the sound of putting Waterlox as a protectant, as it requires little/no sanding, but now hesitate if I have to strain it first.
The piece I'm building is a mission style buffet in quarter-sawn white oak. Just finished french-polishing with shellac flakes and DN alcohol. I love the look, although I am finding it scratches too easily. As a buffet, it will have to endure some temperature and food, and shellac won't hold up with that...Am finishing the parts before assembly, so all pieces are still flat on my work benches.
FYI, I found the french polish to work great, as I don't have to sand, nor wait between coats, but put on 10 coats in 1-1/2 hours work - quick, easy, no sanding work or dust,

[Jim Becker]

Joni, that hold true for almost any finish that is "satin" or other non-gloss sheen...flattening agents are used to produce the effect. They must be thoroughly mixed prior to application to insure a consistent sheen. If you don't, you'll get a lot more glossy than you were expecting. That said, if you don't want to deal with it, just use a gloss product and learn to rub it out with compounds and other abrasive to get the exact sheen you want.

[Joni Palashewski]

Stirring I can do. Are you saying I don't have to strain it? I didn't understand why they would put it in just to have to strain it out...

[Jim Becker]

It's a common/normal practice to strain finishes and since you should be moving the finish from the can to another container for application, it really doesn't hurt to use a 20 cent filter to insure that there is no "trash" in the finish prior to application. Again, this is not unique to Waterlox.